Zagorka Queen

My Second Home

2007-09-11T21:45:00.000-07:00

Stara Zagora really did become my second home, my home away from home. I made it mine, and made a great amazing life for myself there.

The apartment building. A large communist block.

My apartment doors. I loved these doors. I could easily tell anyone that came to visit, which apartment was mine. I loved that red door!

The dark, musty entrance to my building. It always smelled, and the ground was always wet. It was like a very creepy basement, except that this was my everyday.

The mailboxes. Bulgaria does not really hold mail to a high standard. It is not a federal offense to open someone else's mail. And this is why I had all mail and packages sent to my school. How else would I have gotten my Fruity Pebble fix??

My door. Gospodin Mixhailovski Street, #81, Stara Zagora, BG 6000. My second home.

It may not look like much from the outside, like most places in Bulgaria, but it was warm and cozy. I had many a laugh and tear inside those doors, and I wouldn't trade any of it for the world.

Bringing the Bears to Bulgaria

2007-09-09T22:37:00.000-07:00

During my grand ol' tour, we stopped into school so I could show off one of my biggest accomplishments while in Bulgaria. The completion of my grant: A media resource room and English library.

And to add my own little touch to the room, I put in a UC Berkeley Football mouse pad. Just trying to spread the joys of Cal football all over the world. I am sure no one ever noticed, but it was a small piece of home right there at my school in Bulgaria.

I even left the American football I had acquired with my school. Although, the football was a little beat up when I left. Playing with it on the hard asphault in the school yard, kicking it around like it was a soccer ball will do that to the ball. I used to love watching my students try to get that perfect spiral pass to their classmate. Quite amusing.

The Quick and Dirty of Sightseeing in BG: Stara Zagora

2007-09-08T12:34:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Stara Zagora in the early morning. We headed back to my place where I was greeted by my lovely cat Costa. We rested for a bit before heading back into town. I wanted to show my sister what my life was like for the last 2+ years.

First stop: Apartment. Check.
Second stop: The Market. Check.
Third stop: The Obits wall. Check.

Next stop: My School. Check.
Next stop: The Old Ruins. Check.

Next stop: Ice Cream. Check.

Final stop: Drums. Check.

Stara Zagora is a beautiful city, and the fifth largest in Bulgaria. But I cant say that we see too many tourists come through these streets for reasons you may have already guessed. There just isn't a whole lot to see or do.

Tears, Tempers and Trains

2007-09-07T21:04:00.000-07:00

Much like any big city, after 4 days the hustle, the crowds, the intensity and the heat began to wear on us, but we wanted more. I could have spent 3 weeks in Istanbul alone before even venturing to other parts of Turkey. Unfortunately, we only had about 4 days in the amazing, lustrous city.

We tried to soak up as much of it as possible. From the mosques, to the side street shops. From the aqueducts, to the Grand Bizarre. From the rooftops, across the Bosporus. From one palace to the next. From strangers to friends. From friendly smiles, to cups of tea. But after so many cups of tea... it was time to say good bye to Turkey. We headed back on the 10pm train.

(From the train)

We of course ran into a small glitch when we got on the train. Our tickets (tickets I previously purchased in Bulgaria to ensure I had a sleeper cabin) were not valid as the Turkey reservation desk had already given that cabin to another group of people. After 2 and a half years of this s**t, my patience had run thin and I was fuming yelling at the ticket lady, yelling at the train guy, pretty much just yelling at anyone who looked like they were in charge of anything. Well, it worked. I got my way, and we got a sleeper cabin!

(Me and my mom peering up from our beds...hot, sweaty and tired)

Taking the night train was nothing new for me or for my sister who had travelled Europe right out of college, but it was quite an adventure for my mom. The kicker of it all was that at maybe 3 in the morning we passed through boarder control. This meant we had to get off the train leaving all our possessions back in the cabin, cross the train tracks (by cross, I mean, jump down on the tracks, walk across, and climb back up....at 3 IN THE MORNING!), and get our passports stamped. I had done this once before so I didnt think much of it, but I kept forgetting that this would NEVER fly in the states. Since when does one have to cross live tracks just to get their documents checked. It really is insane just to think about it.

(Boarder Crossing on the Turkey Side)

We made it safely back to Stara Zagora, all limbs attached, all suitcases still in tow. Even with the constant jerking of the train, the nightly check-ins from random boarder control, the track crossings, even with all that, my mom still loved it. It reminded her of something out of a movie. Movie or not, I am excited not to have to ride scary night trains for awhile. Although it saddens me too, as that means I will not be travelling for awhile.

Because I REALLY Cant Help Myself

2007-09-06T21:29:00.000-07:00

Ah, the Turkish Toilet....for reals!

I have had the great experience of doing my business in many a hole in the ground, a hole we like to call the Turkish toilet. Now finally, here is a real Turkish toilet; this time actually in Turkey.

(A sultan's toilet at the Topkapi Palace)

As you may recall, in an earlier post "The Terrible Turkish Toilets", I also write about my joys of the scary dark hole.

Because I Cant Help Myself

2007-09-05T21:20:00.000-07:00

For so many reasons, I cant help but JUMP. Here is another one of me and my sister....this time in Turkey!

(Before)

(After)

Check out those shadows!

Turksih Boyfriend

2007-09-04T15:32:00.000-07:00

During one of our last meals in Turkey, we went to a restaraunt across the street from our hotel. I remember this place well, as I had dined there the previous year with Mandy and Gina. We had made friends with the owners and they even took us out for a night on the town to Shiny Club. But that is a story for another time.

Back to this summer. We had an early casual dinner and ordered wine and appetizers. We were in no rush. As the waiter took our order, he looked at me with confusion. You know how when you see someone you think you know, you get that look in your eye like "How do I know you?". Well, he had that same curious expression. He asked if he knew me from somewhere and I told him yes, from last summer, we went to Shiny club. "Ah, yes. You were with a tall girl and a shorter girl." (Mandy and Gina.) We started talking and wa-la, we made the connection.

(A rooftop dinner)

The waiter went in and told his friend that I had returned. He came out, greeted me with a hug and kiss, and we reminisced about last summer. I came to find out that he is now happily engaged and doing well for himself. As the evening progressed, we had our dinner, ordered more wine, and made more connections. Another person there owned a small shop in the states, in Texas. And who would have believed it, but my mom had frequented that shop several times during her visits to a friend out in Houston. They chatted. I chatted. It was nothing but good times. They joked about one of the waiters, telling me he was single and interested. They even offered my mom 5 camels and a carpet if we were to wed, continuing to tease the young turkish guy about how he had enough hair on his chest to keep me warm during the cold, long winter nights.

By the end of the dinner, everyone was friends. We had shared cups of tea together, exchanged emails, and truly had a good time. I was walked out by young waiter where he planted a kiss on me, and promised to write. You could see it in his eyes. He was smitten over the American girl.

Update: And in fact, he did write. He has written me over the months since my return to the states asking me when I will return. He even writes me poems...or sends me poems as I am not sure they are originals. Here are a couple samples of what was sent to me.

(Istanbul in the Winter: Mehmet Altunpak, my Turkish Boyfriend)

Subject: My inspiration

Destiny where do I find you?
Destiny where can I look for you?
Destiny where are you hiding?
Why are you hiding from me?
Destiny what do you have for me?
Destiny what are my options?
Destiny which door is open for me?
Destiny which door should I go in to find out what you have for me?
Destiny does my future looks bright?
Destiny do you have anything for me that I might want?
Destiny can I get any satisfaction from you?
Destiny are you my friend?
Destiny can you feel my hearts desires?

Subject: Hello

My dearest, How are you? I looked forward to response anyway you send. You 're beautiful. I love your eyes. Miss you. I would be waiting tomorrow night at 10 o'clock. Kiss you. See you.

Subject: Angel

Hi my angel. Where have you been? Ok Jessie, say hi to your family. I really so miss you. I will LOVE YOU forever. Take care of yourself.

Subject: You are the one

A month have passed since splitting up. Who knows where are you I could do anything to see you and hear your voice. Your green eyes, your wavy hair are unforgettable. Never think you have been forgotten you are always on my mind. Without being forgotten your memory had stayed somewhere deep in my heart. Oppression month had pulled you away from me. None had known our love except us. I'm left alone and our love has become a song I have been thinking of you with song.

Those are some real bottom of the heart love letters. I havent been back since, but cant wait for the next opportunity to return. Maybe our paths will cross once again

The Sunken Palace

2007-09-03T22:28:00.000-07:00

Istanbul is often described as mystical, but when you go down the steps into the cool, dark cisterns, it doesn’t get more mystical and magical than that. Beneath Istanbul lie hundreds of gloomy cisterns. They're left from the days when Istanbul was Constantinople.

The grandest of all is Yerebatan Saray Sarniçi, called the Basilica Cistern, or “Sunken Palace”, because of its size (2.4 acres), its capacity (over 21 million US gallons) and its 336 marble columns. You can walk through the cistern on a wooden walkway to the sounds of soft classical music and dripping water. And if you look closely, there are goldfish darting around in the water below.

It was constructed in the mid-500's A.D. during the reign of Justinian I in order to supply water to palaces located nearby. The water was brought in from far away water sources via aqueduct, and then stored in cisterns such as this one. After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, the cistern fell largely unused for centuries. During the 1980's a huge restoration project was conducted on the cistern to allow for tourist visits.

Justinian’s builders didn’t actually carve all these intricate decorate columns; this was a case of ancient recycling. They reused materials from old buildings. And one of the most famous sights within the cistern is the pedestal with the two Medusa heads carved into it. The exact origin of the two heads is unknown, though they were probably recycled from the late Roman period. Another mystery is why one of the heads is upside down, while the other is tilted to one side.In Greek mythology, Medusa was a gorgeous gal with a great head of hair, but Athena, queen of the gods, was jealous. She turned her into a monster with serpents growing out of her head, and anyone who looked at her turned into stone.

Another tidbit of interest: We were told that the scene in the old James Bond movie From Russia With Love was filmed in Yerbatan. It is the scene when Bond is rowing in a small boat through a forest of marble columns. Cool, huh?

The Sights, Sounds, and Smells of Istanbul

2007-09-02T23:05:00.000-07:00

A quick picture review trying its best to capture snip its of Istanbul.

Pottery.

Lights.

Spices.

Turkish Delights.

Cheese.

Baklava. (Original baklava is made from "40" layers of yufka dough. The dough should be so thin that it should be transperant. In between, pistachio or walnuts are laid.)

Textile Vendors.

Tiles.

The Bosporus.

These pictures don't even begin to do Istanbul justice, but it gives you a very small glimpse into what it has to offer.

Call to Prayer

2007-09-01T21:50:00.000-07:00

Istanbul is blanketed in mosques. Throughout the city, you are never more than a few blocks away from one. Yet the undisputed icons of the city and the spiritual (and tourist) heart of the city are two massive mosques that face each other, separated by a beautiful park. As the story goes, they were built by competing sultans trying to outspend each other on lavish glories to god. Called the Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, these buildings are truly monuments to man’s ability to create beauty.

(Ritual of men washing feet before prayer)

(Inside the Blue Mosque...all covered up out of respect for their beliefs.)

Turkey is 99% Muslim, and five times a day the city's mosques blast the call to prayer from their loudspeakers. The first comes at a shockingly early 5am, nearly knocking my sister out of bed on the first night. You can hear the call in every corner of the city, and it is a hauntingly beautiful cry. After the first morning, we talked about the call to prayer and how much it just gave us all the goose bumps at the beauty of it. Perhaps more than anything else, the call to prayer made us feel as though we were definitely not in the "West," but had entered the vaguely defined "East.”

(Ayasofia Mosque)

(Inside Ayasofia. Here you have to try to move your thumb all the way around the circle without lifting your thumb at anytime. If you do this your wish will come true...or something superstitious like that.)

Although there are probably hundreds, maybe thousands of mosques in Istanbul, we only made it to a few. But we did hear the call to prayer everyday, five times a day, and were still found in awe each time.

Istanbul in a Nutshell

2007-08-30T12:15:00.000-07:00

I wanted to write all about my time in Istanbul with my family, but couldnt help but think that my friend Max had put it so eloquently: "Istanbul, a city that is truly a crossroads of history and civilization. A capital of empires and dynasties, today Istanbul is the financial and cultural capital of modern Turkey (though the “official” political capital is Ankara, in central Anatolia). It is a city of nearly 9 million people, with an estimated total of 11 million when the surrounding areas are included – making it bigger than New York City or Los Angeles county. All of Bulgaria has only 7.5 million people. It’s a big place." (Thank you Max, for that.)

(In front of the Blue Mosque with the family)

It’s also an incredibly interesting, dynamic city that I couldnt help but pressure my mom into going. My previous visit a year earlier there had been a small bombing in the outskirts of Istanbul. This to say the least had scared off my mom. Bombings were still a small threat as politics meets religion, but I assured her that it was well worth the risk. She agreed, and now I think I can say with all honesty, Istanbul ranks in as one of me, my sister's and my mom's top 3 favorite cities. It is number one for me as no other city even compares. Nothing can compare to the many contrasts or smells, the clash of modern and old, the traditions, colors, and overall vibe.

(Enjoying the light show in front of the Blue Mosque)

We had a blast. It was hot, in the mid 90s, and it was crowded with backpackers and tourists, and Turks of course. The street hockers were as annoying and slick as ever, pleading with us to buy their carpets and eat their food. But outside of the main tourist center, the hard-sellers disappear, and you can walk unimpeded. We strolled the bazaars and we shopped and haggled for bargains...well, mostly I did the bargaining as my innocent smile disappeared and I got down to business. I had been there once before and knew more or less what one should pay for a piece of pottery or a small this or that.

My Turkish Twin...

2007-08-29T16:13:00.000-07:00

Turkey: A country full of men. Men who, as you walk past, tell you how beautiful you are, always trying to guess your nationality. Men who are so forward in their feeling, and don't hold anything back. Men, who ultimately, are just trying to sell you something.

As we were headed to our next point of interest, one of the mosques in the main square, a young Turkish guy stopped to tell us that the call of prayer was about to start and now was not a good time to site see the mosque. We looked around to see if he was telling the truth, and in fact, men were walking in herds towards the mosque to, well, pray. We kindly thanked him and smiled goodbye. We had decided to hold off for a bit and head in another direction. I think we ventured down to the aqueducts or maybe went shopping; I don't quite remember. A couple of hours later we happened across this same guy. He again stopped, and chatted us up. As me and him were talking, my sister got this classic snap shot.

(Twins: Me and my Turkish Twin)

Only in the land of the foreign, outside of America, would you find a guy wearing a purple and pink and green striped shirt, an almost identical pattern to my tank top. There is just no shame, or maybe every one is proudly metro. Not really sure, but I can't help but love it.

As we chatted and parted ways, he recommended a place to eat later, which we followed up on. After joining us for a drink, my mom warily headed to the hotel, while my sister and I joined him and his cousin for some tea and backgammon and even a little hookah (although we did not partake in the hookah).

All in all, he seemed like a nice guy. I must say, having tea is a lot more innocent than going out for beers at a club. After all, tea is a sign of friendship, offered anytime, anywhere.

We ran into him a couple of other times during our stay in Instanbul, but never sat down for tea again. I cant say I was bummed because, really, I was in Turkey, and there were sooo many other things to see and enjoy! I will always remember these encounters and meetings with my Turkish Twin, and always look back fondly of the time we had tea together.

Helllloooo Turkey!

2007-08-28T15:30:00.000-07:00

We arrived into Istanbul in the evening, jumped into the hotel shuttle, and were wisked away. And when I say whisked, I mean packed into a shuttle, holding on for dear life, and trying to soak up the sights as we reached further and further into the city. As we approached the center, the streets became more narrow and apparently one-way. Cars had to reverse out of a street if an oncoming car was coming.

(Istanbul at night)

The hotel we stayed in was the same place my friends and I stayed a year before. It was the Side Pension and Hotel. A hotel/pension. We stayed in the hotel side this time. The only difference here was the fact that it was supposed to have air conditioning. And in the middle of the summer in Turkey, you want air conditioning. Unfortunately, they were all full up and our reservation didn't mean much to them, so we were stuck in a smallish room with 2 beds and a cot, and zero A/C. A small fan was supplied to us, but I find that those sometimes just push the hot air around rather than producing any cool air at all. I was disappointed and angry as this is what I had reserved, but what could I do?

We stepped out for a quick glimpse of our neighborhood, grabbed a bite, and headed in for a good nights rest. We were exhausted.

Farewell Athens

2007-08-27T09:38:00.000-07:00

The hot summer sun. A cooling jacuzzi. Tons of tourists. The magnificant greek ruins. Kebabs and taziki. A few islands. Pistachios. And one trip to the hospital.

Here are a few picture highlights:

(Me amid some ruins)

Who doesnt love the self portrait photo where one person holds the camera hoping not to get a double chin. But we were all smiles (and double chin-less). Could I have any more frekles?

(Me, Jenny, and Mom)

What would a trip be without a classic jumping shot. It is just something I have to do everywhere I travel. I even managed to convince my sister of the fun! The Greeks and tourists alike look on as we jumped like crazy till we got a good shot. Although good can be described as ridiculously silly here.

(Jenny and me)

It was time to say good bye to Greece; we were packing our bags for Turkey!

Side Note: A Quick Review

2007-08-26T11:58:00.000-07:00

After my numerous toe and personal health incidents during my stay abroad, I wanted to give you a quick review of different medical vehicles I can proudly say I never had to use.

This one seriously looks like the ghost busters car just a little more beat up. How old is this vehicle??? And can it really be that reliable!?

This is more like it. A real ambulance right in my home town of Stara Zagora. I hope they upgrade all the emergency vehicles to ones like this. Alas, this is Bulgaria, where the money runs scarce expect when bribed by the mafia.

What is filled with goo and green all over?

2007-08-25T12:41:00.000-07:00

My gross infected toe! Yes, I know my riddle is pretty bad, but I just cant seem to escape all the issues that surround my feet. It is bad enough that feet are smelly and not known to be the prettiest body part ever, but mine just happen to be the grossest things you ever saw. (Well, maybe not the grossest.)

It all started last summer. My family was in Bulgaria visiting and I got an infection in my big toe nail. My mom came with me to the Peace Corps doctors where they told me I would have to have a procedure done to take out my ingrown toenail. (ICK!) Later in the summer, they did the procedure and I passed with flying colors. No infection, no nastiness.

This summer, my mom had to take me to a Greek hospital. I showed off my toe to an EMT and she reccommended I go to the public hospital in town to get it checked out. I would have held off until I got back to Bulgaria or even the states, but it just seemed to get worse and worse. And I didnt think that with all the heat, sweat and dirt, it was making things better. This hospital was something out of a movie back in the 50s. It was old, run down and no one spoke English, but that was only to be expected. I paid 5 Euros, and waited about 2 hours and finally saw a doctor. He just looked at my toe (didnt even bother to put on gloves), wrote up a prescription and I was on my way.

It was quite an interesting interaction with his broken English, and my complete lack of any Greek except "prost" which means cheers. And I didnt really think that would get me anywhere except a good spot at the bar.

Needless to say by the looks of my toe slowly progressing from bad to worse, I filled the presription, and let the magic begin. It was a gel like substance I had to rub on the infected area. Lucky for me it was hot sandal weather!

Over the course of the trip, my toe slowly started to heal. The yellowy-green pus was released, and my toe back to normal. But I will tell you one thing, I dont ever want to end up in another foreign hospital, especially without a translator. That was 7 too many times (5 times in Bulgaria, and 2 times in Greece). Yikes!

Aegina, Hydra, Poros...

2007-08-23T14:56:00.000-07:00

...and a tourist rip-off. I could have guessed from the start that what we signed up for was going to turn out this way, but the brochures and sales people make it sound great. A day trip to 3 Greek islands! A ferry boat, lunch and tours. What more could you ask for? MORE TIME! That is what.

(Myself and Jenny, my sister, on the Ferry out to the islands)

Yes, we were suckered into going on a day trip to 3 different Greek Islands, just off the Athens coast. We wanted a taste of the islands, but didnt have a whole lot of time. So, we settled on one of those typical tourists traps.

We set sail on the ferry bright and early, and headed out to sea for a couple of hours with all the other anxious, excited, doe-eyed tourists by our side.

(The Ferry)

First stop: Aegina. We were given about 2 hours to roam the island. So instead of walking on the beach with the wind blowing through my hair, my skirt flowing like I imagined (but not really), we were like cattle being herded, everyone in the same direction passing by the tacky tourists shops. We did get to venture to a clock tower and take some nice photos. Greece is full of nothing but photo opportunities.

(The Family)

Next stop: Hydra. 1 or so hour here. A quick jaunt though the small island town, and some decent shopping. But again, it was nothing to write home about. Had we been given more time, maybe, but I hate that feeling of being rushed on time. If you are late, the boat leaves without you. That is what they say anyways.

(A Greek Window)

Next stop: Poros. I actually really enjoyed this island. They took us out into the depth of island more where they gave us a guided tour. We saw the endless fields of Pistachio farms. And the interesting thing about pistachios is that they have sex! Yes, sex.

Pistachios trees are dioecious in nature, meaning that the sex of some trees is male and some female, and that both are needed for complete pollination. The female trees produce the nuts while the male produces the pollen. Hmm, that seems not too unfamiliar from human procreation. One male tree is needed for every six female trees, a fact that guys can relate to. Wind also aids in the pollination process.

(Me amid the characteristically white Greek town)

Last stop: Athens. After a long day out at sea, with sometimes turbulent waters, the hot summer sun, and the constant go-go-go mentality of the tour guides, we were back on dry land and ready to sit back and relax.

Advice for next time: Spend more time on one island, rather than 3 in one day, and less time in Athens.

Greece: Destination Athens

2007-08-22T12:18:00.000-07:00

First impressions: It is hot hot hot! And I don't mean sexy. I mean sweaty, muggy, and moist. Not a good combination for anyone.

I arrive into Athens a half day before my mom and sister and decide to brave the subway and buses to get myself over the hotel where a rooftop jacuzzi awaits! I find the hotel with the help of a Greek man. I wish I could say he was a Greek god, but he was just a helpful old man wandering the streets of Athens in the mid morning heat. I check in, drop my bag off, and put on the bikini. I wanted to soak up some sun and work on my tan before having to head back to foggy San Francisco. As I walk out onto the roof, I am awe struck by our view. We have a view over all of Athens and are right next to the big Acropolis! It was amazing. And so was the cooled jacuzzi. Now this is what I call a vacation.

After a couple of hours in the peak day sun, I head down to the air conditioned hotel and await the family. They arrive with open arms, and we head straight out for some grub.

The thing I love about most European towns is the outdoor cafes! I can never get enough of them. We find a cozy spot on the street and dig into our shwarma kebabs, taziki, and refreshing beer. After dinner we walked around the plaza and enjoyed seeing all the old ruins lit up at night, especially the Acropolis.

And that was just day one!

Off I go...

2007-07-29T23:57:00.000-07:00

With only two weeks left before my departure, I am headed off on my last European vacation (for awhile). This time, its destination Greece and Turkey. I am meeting my mom and sister in Athens were we will tour around the city, hopefully make it to an island, and relax in the roof top jacuzzi at our hotel. Then its off to Turkey. I have been once before and cannot wait to show my mom and sister the beautiful city and culture that is Istanbul. Off I go..

(Me at the Camp site in Serbia being incredibly cute...and silly.)

And like I said before, (which no one did,) write me comments!!! Please....so I know people are reading this thing and its not all for nothing!

BG in the news...

2007-07-28T08:48:00.000-07:00

As my time here leads me back to Sofia for a few days, I cant help but remember this article my friend stumbled upon and shared with me. It is an article from the New York Times published July 1, 2007. Its a rare occurrence when Bulgaria makes the headlines. And even more surprising when they make the NYT for their clubbing scene. But, I must say, Maskata is one of my favorite clubs to go to when I make it out to the big capital city.

Partying Amid Cold-War Ruins:
OUT at Sofia’s southernmost edge, where new offices and condos are continuously in the works, Studentski Grad, or Student Town, still looks lifelessly rooted in its cold war-era skeleton. An academic zone of six universities built in the ’60s and ’70s, it’s a place where graffiti-covered housing blocks crumble, rusted fences line overgrown fields, and Soviet-made cars decay on cracked sidewalks. Crisp blue-and-gold European Union flags do little to sway the impression of a bleak wasteland. That is, until the sun sets.

At night, many of the area’s 25,000 students — including engineering and economics majors at the Technical University and the University of National and World Economy — hoof it to more than 30 strobe-lighted bars and discos, many hidden behind aged, Soviet-era dorms and publicized only by word of mouth.

Spurred by Bulgaria’s accession into the European Union this year, the capital city of Sofia is experiencing a night-life boom. And nowhere is this more apparent that in Studentski Grad, where cheap rents, lax zoning rules and young residents mean that clubs and bars are opening everywhere, from vacant lots to active dormitories.

“It’s like a resort of clubs,” said Ventsislav Dudolenski, 40, the district’s appointed mayor, who has a no-holds-barred approach to development. “Bulgarians like to go out every night.”

Some of the most popular clubs are clustered behind dorm blocks 13, 14 and 15, where bright lights and blaring DJs are the rule. Fans of chalga — a kind of Balkanized disco that sounds something like the Borat theme song — pour into Avenue (1A Atanas Manchev Street; 359-898-553-086; www.complexavenue.com), a well-lighted and mellow club where you’ll find friends dancing in groups, arms raised and hips shaking.

Alt-rocker types head to Stroeja (Block 23B; 359-2-962-5977; www.stroeja.com), a dive bar that resembles, as its Bulgarian name suggests, a construction site, with broken windows, scaffolding and sawhorse tables. The crowd comes to drink Zagorka beers (1.50 leva, or about $1 at 1.49 leva to the dollar), listen to post-Nirvana rock and play the Pamela Anderson pinball machine.

For live music , there’s Maskata (Block 19; 359-2-868-8079), a cavernous club on the ground floor of an active student dormitory. In one corner, portraits of Bulgaria’s former Communist leaders are cheekily on display. But the focus is on the stage, where rock bands jam most weekends, and fellow students sing Whitney Houston and Judas Priest tunes during the Monday karaoke nights that last till 5 a.m.

The restaurant scene in Studentski Grad is starting to show life, too. Until recently, the district had three choices: drab student cafeterias, pizzerias and kebab stands. Now there are a handful of decent sit-down restaurants like Borimechkata (Block 24; 352-888-222-124; www.borimechkata.com), a Greek taverna-style place with hanging vines, wine-filled barrels and an open grill for skewered meats, including lamb shish kebab (5.20 leva).

All this partying doesn’t exactly bode well for studying. “About 80 percent of the students go to university only to drink and drink,” said Aleksander Sirakov, 21, a student at Sofia University. “It’s fun, but it’s hard to learn anything when you’re hung over every morning.”

Goodbye Pool...

2007-07-27T23:02:00.000-07:00

It was a sad day for me today. Today, my friends, was my last day at the pool. Yes, that is right. I will no longer be basking in the sun at Stara Zagora's hippest pool called Escape. Its a perfect name for the pool as most go there to "escape". Not such a clever name in fact, but eh.

(Christina and Grant...my occasional pool buddies.)

All week, my days looked like this. I woke up, drank some juice, fooled around online for a bit, put on the swim suit, lathered up the sunscreen, packed my towel and book, and headed on out to the pool. All this by 11:30 am. I sat around reading, drinking iced coffees, cooled off by dipping in the pool, napped under the sun's rays, and just simply relaxed. And I would do it all over again the next day. Seriously, this week couldn't get any better.

(The pool. Please note the wheel chair. Not so surprising to see handicapped people at the pool as it is actually easier for them in the water, but surprising to see it in Bulgaria.)

That was until the lifeguard blew her whistle for the last time at 5:30 pm instructing us to get out of the pool. My friends were with me as we said goodbye and walked out. But enough of this complaining. I will be off to Greece in a few days, basking under those beautiful rays.

Bulgarian Nurses are saved!!!!

2007-07-26T00:05:00.000-07:00

Since many of you have been asking me about the situation with the Bulgarian nurses, this is what I have for you. As you all know, Bulgaria has been making headlines all over the world. It is an important event in Bulgaria's recent history as a group of five Bulgarian nurses (and a Palestinian doctor) were set free from death row in Libya on Tuesday.

As I have mentioned in a previous blog entry...Eight and a half years ago, the five nurses who were living and working in Libya, were falsely accused of infecting nearly 500 children with HIV. An investigation concluded that the infections came from the wards where the Bulgarian nurses had been assigned. The nurses say they were tortured into confessing their guilt. But international experts concluded that the virus appeared before the nurses’ arrival and was probably spread by contaminated needles. But the country they needed a scapegoat and saw the nurses as their answer. The Bulgarians and the Palestinian doctor were a terribly sad case of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. For more than eight years these people who went to work and help the Libyans were beaten, tortured, and jailed.

And then, in recent weeks, the situation rapidly changed. Following weeks of intense behind-the-scenes negotiations involving French president Nicolas Sarkozy, his spouse Cecilia and others, an agreement was finally agreed upon. In this case the families of the infected children dropped their push for the death penalty, each family received $1 million USD, and the nurses’ sentence was commuted to life in prison. Under a long-standing agreement between Libya and Bulgaria, citizens who are convicted while abroad are allowed to serve out their prison terms in their home country. So the medics were transferred to Bulgaria, where they were greeted by hundreds of people at the Sofia airport, whereby the Bulgarian president Georgi Parvanov pardons the medics just 45 minutes after they touched home soil.

And so after almost nine years, Bulgaria’s most pressing international saga has come to a happy conclusion.

I hope that answers most of your questions...

(*Please note: I stole the above picture and much of the information mentioned above from the New York Times and my friend Max's blog.)

Stara Zagora is on Fire!

2007-07-25T23:39:00.000-07:00

Over the past week, Bulgaria has been hit with extreme heat as the temperatures have reached record breaking highs. With these high temperatures recorded to be as high as 42 Celsius degrees (106 Fahrenheit) in some parts also comes fires and death. As of Monday, 2 Bulgarians were reported dead after the heat wave. And to top it off, different regions around Bulgaria have been hit with wildfires.

(Fires in Ayazmoto park. Picture taken from the Sofia News Agency online.)

Bulgarian fire fighters contained 22 wildfires throughout the country overnight on Tuesday. And the Stara Zagora region (my region) remains the worst hit by the blazes. Dozens of additional fire fighters were dispatched to help contain the fires, some of which have been slowly expanding. People from the town and nearby villages have also joined the fierce battle with the flames, as country's resources are stretched thin after a week of this. Even the environmental NGO Green Balkans here in town has gone up to the park to help build a fire line with other city volunteers just trying to help.

(An empty pool.)

What does this all mean for me? Well, it has managed to cut my pool time short. I have been a daily visitor to the pool all week trying to soak up the sun before I head back to the real world. And today, I had to leave the pool early! I started to notice small black dust covering my body. But this wasn't dust; this was ash from the local fires blowing my way. When I went into the pool to wash myself off, I saw the pool too, was in bad shape. There was ash everywhere. Not to mention the air was filled with the smell of smoke. Upon my better judgment, I packed up and headed back home, to breath the fresh air of indoors. What a bust!

Tough week ahead...

2007-07-22T00:20:00.000-07:00

Ah, from the looks of it, I might have a tough week ahead of me. Not only do I have to pack up my apartment and clean it, I also have to lounge out by the pool. Life after Peace Corps is rough, I tell you.

Over the past weekend, I have managed to keep myself busy. First, I joined friends at the park for a picnic.

Watched a little badminton. Maybe I would have played if we had a net...and it wasn't so fricken hot out.

Had a few farewell dinners, and one birthday dinner.

And made it to the pool once.

Now, I am determined to make it to the pool everyday this week. I have my sunscreen ready, and cold drink in hand. Its looking to be a good week.

Corruption at its finest...

2007-07-20T00:47:00.000-07:00

Smoking in Bulgaria is something nearly everyone does here. It is everywhere and impossible to avoid. It is quite annoying to say the least. Bulgaria has simply accepted itself as a smoking culture.

While traveling back from Serbia, Link and I had quite an encounter. Not something you would expect to see everyday, but something that definitely goes on everyday.

(Coffee and smoke. One very important aspect of the BG culture.)

We were peacefully enjoying (please read: sweating our arses off) the ride to Sofia in a cabin all to ourselves. But with all good things they have to come to an end. We were woken from our tired, sweaty state as our cabin filled up with loud train goers just trying to get to Sofia themselves. Well, thats what I thought anyways. They on the other hand, had a different agenda. We were at the boarder town when the train seemed to fill up, not only with people, but with cartons and cartons of cigarettes. As soon as the group entered our cabin, they started stashing single boxes of cigarettes in their pockets and purses. Hmm, I thought, something fishy is about to go down.

Actually, things were not all that strange at first. The control inspector came by every cabin looking through the passenger's bags, checking how many cartons they were bringing over the boarder. They are allowed 10 to bring over 10 boxes. They didn't bother with me or Link seeing as we stand out as the innocent foreigners. We just simply watched with amusement. The controller left, the train started going, and that was that.

But it was far from over. As the train was going, another inspector came by. He picked out one guy in our cabin, stepped outside to chat, exchanged some money, and he came back in. Next thing we see is a woman come into our car talking to the guy who just bribed off the inspector. She was then handed wads and wads of money in all kinds of currency. There were Euros, Dinars (Serbian), and Leva (BG). She squatted down, took out her calculator, and added up the dough. They argued a bit, he gave her more money, and she was off. Think it's over? Think again. Maybe 20 minutes later she calls the guy into her cabin this time. He comes tramping back with bags and bags filled with cartons of cigs. Who knows how many cartons there were. This same exchange was going on between several other people in the train. We asked our friendly train mates what the deal is and this is what we understood.

They are hired by whoever, I assume some Mafia lord, to travel back and forth between Bulgaria and Serbia everyday to bring over their allotted 10 cartons of cigarettes. They make 40 leva a day doing this. And they dont seem to buy a train ticket. (They were without one when the ticket man came by. But what did they do...they paid him off with a few leva.) Then there is some person who pays off the control inspectors and they somehow manage to walk away with loads of cartons. I am not so much surprised that this goes on, but I am utterly shocked how open they are about it. There was no trying to hide any of the exchanges of money. It was like Link and I were old pals to them and this was just plain business. We found out that they are only making about 4 leva off each carton of cigarettes. It doesn't seem all that worth it in the end if they do this everyday.

But I guess in a country where everyone smokes, they are just meeting the demand.

Did you know that Bulgaria has the highest rate in the world of cigarettes smoked per capita. The highest rate in the WORLD! (Thanks for that fun fact Max and the Economist.)

Time to Exit the Exit Fest...

2007-07-19T07:23:00.000-07:00

After 4 days of camping and rocking music, it was time to leave and go back to our normal lives. And I know we all had a blast. Lincoln got to see his favorite band, Beastie Boys, perform for the 3rd time. Megs and I got to meet Snoop Dog. Elena met many cute boys, including an Icelandic one. And Dan and Linda enjoyed their first getaway together.

(Me leaving the Exit Fest. All the particles on the picture just shows how much dust was flying around.)

And to top it all off, we even made it into the local paper...!!!! Not only did we make it into the paper, we are the largest picture in the center fold. We even remember a guy coming around and taking our picture. We cheersed the camera and thought, yeah right, that will never make it in. But it did!!!

How did we know we were in the paper....? Our security guard friends saw it and recognized us. They gave us a few copies when we saw them. Like I said before, it was nice having them on our side.

Ah, EXIT. So many good memories. Here we are, playing drinking Uno, with our new friend Mladen.

Snoop and more...

2007-07-18T14:29:00.000-07:00

Night Three Lineup: Dubioza Kolektiv, Ms Lauryn Hill, Basement Jaxx, and Snoop Dogg.

As you can see from the picture below, we stuck to our plan and made it to the front row for a second night in a row. What does being in the front row mean?

(Link, Me, Megs, Dennis, and Elena)

It means ....you get to meet Snoop Dogg!!! Oh yeah, that's right. Megs and I were some of the cute girls picked from the front row to go back stage and meet Snoop and his crew. We hopped on stage, had our IDs checked (must be 18), and met the band mates. Snoop was not actually hanging out as he was in his private room, but we did chat it up with the others. But to be honest, the back stage party was totally lame. I would have pictured all kinds of booze and partying, but there was simply water and fruit plate. Maybe that is why they even invited us back to their hotel rooms where the real party was at. But can you say SKETCH. No way were we going back with them..but it was cool meeting them. Finally, just was we were leaving Snoop came out and I asked if we could take a picture with him. He just kind of grunted and that was that. But hey, how many PCVs can say they met Snoop?

(Megs, Snoop, and Me)

Night Four Lineup: Mala Vita, Van Gogh, Audio Bullys Live, Wu-Tang Clan, and Pendulum DJ set & MC Verse.

The final night. Another night of fun. We weren't really pumped about any of the bands playing, but thought it best to get our money's worth. Van Gogh turned out to be a pretty good group and had an amazing turnout. They are the most popular Serbian rock band out there right now so that could explain it. Audio Bullys was aweful. All the music sounded the same and it was this one guy singing almost monotone like. He had no energy and nearly put the crowd to sleep. He was the only guy who was booed at the whole festival from what I heard.

(Megs, Me and Link, front row of course.)

Then it was Wu Tang Clan. They sing very violent rap and we were expecting the worst from the crowd. We were pushed and shoved, hit on the head and had to fight back a little more than other shows. The show was quick but good. They were very into the crowd spaying champagne all over and just saying how great it was to be in Serbia. Well you know what, it was great being in Serbia. The show wrapped up with a DJ who had amazing energy for 4 in the morning. If I didn't have a 5 am train to catch I may have just stayed.

Exit continues...

2007-07-17T13:13:00.000-07:00

A little history about Exit. The first EXIT was held in 2000, in opposition to the regime of then Yugoslav President Slobodan Milosevic. The event quickly outgrew Serbia, and today, it is one of the top music festivals in Europe. Since its inception, EXIT has been about more than music. This year campaigns were established to promote tolerance and anti-discrimination.For the second year in a row, EXIT also sent a strong message to the EU, asking for the visa regime to be relaxed for residents of Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia, Montenegro and Serbia.

(the festival grounds)

This year was the 8th EXIT festival featuring about 150,000 music fans, 28 stages, and four wild nights in Novi Sad, a city 80km north of Belgrade. Festival officials say this year's EXIT drew a record-breaking crowd from outside the country. As many as 40% were foreigners, the gang of us being part of that percentage.

(Megs and I having a few beers on the way.)

Back to the show... The next day turned out to be much better. We sat around the camp site making friends, drinking beer and playing cards. In order to avoid the crazy mob, we gathered our things and headed out to the fortress early. By early, I mean the grounds were empty of any fans, just workers getting ready for the night. But it made it nice for us. We made friends with the camera guys, the security guys and even the food vendors. We now had connections all over the grounds.

(Darko, one of our new Serbian friends we met)

Night Two Lineup: Overflow, the Pipettes, CSS, and Beastie Boys.

Getting there early allowed us to stake out the best seats in the house...front row. Mind you we were hours early, but hey, there was beer and good company, same things we would have over at the camp.

(Beastie Boys)

Not recognizing most of the bands in the lineup, the show turned out to be awesome. Beastie Boys was of course the highlight. After the show we headed back to the camp already deciding to get there early the next day as well. There is nothing like being that close to the action.

Serbia...

2007-07-16T00:53:00.000-07:00

...the scene of hip hop and electronic dance music, thousands of hippies, and a few good friends along for the ride. This past weekend I took an adventure of a different kind out of Bulgaria and into the neighboring country of Serbia. It was not a time for sightseeing and city exploration but rather a time to get down (boogie) and dirty (camp) as we enjoyed the festivities of the 8th annual Exit Festival in Novi Sad.

(Link and I on the train)

A few friends and I headed out on the night train, with beer and burgers in hand, and arrived in the early morning in Belgrade. From there we hoped on another train to Novi Sad where we waited for the fest to begin.

(Base Camp)

Upon arriving to the camp site we staked out some good ground and pitched our tents. I was bunking with Link who broke all the rules when it came to sharing a tent. He took up all the space and made our 2 person tent unbearably smelly with all his tooting. But in the end it didn't really matter much as we did very little sleeping in the tent. It was more of a baking oven with the sun beating down on it in the early hours of the morning.

(View of the fortress where it all happened.)

Night One Lineup: Tanya Stephens, Robert Plant & Strange Sensations, The Prodigy, and Groove Armada.

There were some serious logistical problems the first night and getting in was a long, slow process. We were in a mob of people not going anywhere. They had to check everyone's E-tickets one by one which caused a huge delay. Finally at one point, because the crowd was starting to get a bit too rowdy, they just let everyone in without even checking tickets. We missed Robert Plant, former singer for Led Zeppelin, and none us were fans of the Prodigy. We decided to avoid the huge crowds and watch the show from a distance. It was a dissapointing night and not a great way to start. Calling it a night early, we headed back to camp, anxiously waiting for the following day's lineup.

Noroc!

2007-07-11T11:57:00.000-07:00

That's cheers in Romanian (although I didn't know it at the time), where I was recently enjoying a cold one...and the good life. Now I am off to the Serbia Music Fest. More updates upon my return!

Write me comments!!! They make me feel important!!

Socialites of Sofia....

2007-07-10T07:58:00.000-07:00

"Happy and Beautiful People." Oh yeah, that's me.

As a Peace Corps Volunteer my work here has been written up in the local newspapers, covered on the radio, and I even had a feature in one of Sofia's weekly magazines. This time, I went a different route. I went for the socialite party scene coverage. Yup, I was featured in the June edition of "Sofia Clubbing" magazine. Well, I guess I am not "featured" so much as a wee tiny picture was published. During a late night out in Sofia with a group of friends, my friend Max and I were approached by a photographer. They took our picture but it was hard to understand what it would be used for, or where it would be published (if even published). Weeks later we found out. A friend of Max's was flipping through the magazine to discover a couple of familiar faces. If you look closely you will find the small picture of Max and I in the lower right hand corner. It says Макс и Джесика. Cool, huh?

As Max said, "It's probably not exactly the media source the Peace Corps wants its volunteers to be featured in, but hey, it was all in good fun. And I fully expect Bulgarian People or US Weekly to be sending the paparazzi after me soon." I am not so sure about that, but one can have his dream :) And please, call me Miss Hollywood from now on.

To be honest, discos are not really my scene of choice. I would much rather head down to the local dive bar for a cold one. But sometimes, it is fun to get out there and boogie till the sun comes up.

I guess after all that dancing, it finally paid off.

Finally, after only 11 years..

2007-07-09T01:32:00.000-07:00

Borislav and Nelly have finally tied the knot. They have been dating for 11 years and have finally done it. They are now married. Congrats to them.

I even remember, when I first met Borislav back in training, he told me he had a girlfriend of 9 years. Nine years!!! Since then, I have continually asked, "So, when are you guys getting married?" His answer was always just "soon". Well, soon came 2 years later.

(The wedding party: Borislav and Nelly, and the best man and his wife.)

This was my first Bulgarian wedding. They have been great friends to me here and I was so excited to be sharing their special day with them. A Bulgarian wedding! Wow, I have been waiting for this for 2 years, them even longer. Although, I must say, it was not all that different than an American one. They still have many of the same traditions, but with a slightly different twist.

The day first starts out at city hall. Here they have the official ceremony where all the papers are signed, rings exchanged, and documents stamped. From there, we headed off to the church. This is the more traditional aspect of the wedding. There is a priest who seemed to chant the whole thing. Don't worry, I didn't understand a thing. They held lit candles, wore old golden crowns and walked around the table a few times. They drank wine and took communion. One of the guests even leaned over and jokingly said, the priest is going to be drunk by the end of the day after his 15th wedding. And wouldn't you know it, as soon as we left the church, another wedding party was coming in. It is all a lot less formal too. The church is not closed to the public. Anyone can come in and watch, pray, light their candles, and it is no big deal.

(In the dark and smoky church.)

After the church ceremony, all the guests headed out to the reception, held at a nice restaurant in town. The reception appeared to be like most Bulgarian parties with the Shopska salad and Rakia already waiting for the guests on the tables. The breaking of the glasses initiated the start of the party as well as the start of the dancing. Oh the dancing. No Bulgarian party is the same without the endless dancing. The first dance was had and silly promises made to each other. The bride even throws the bouquet. Only difference, a few men seemed to join the lot of the single girls. A man even caught it, strange.

(My handsome date)

If you thought the party ended there, you are mistaken my friend. Following the reception was the after party for those that could hang after all the bottles of Rakia, beer and wine that were served. A bunch of us went out to another bar...and then another bar...and then another bar...before we headed to the disco. It was a long night of partying and good times.

In closing, I just want to thank Borislav and Nelly for a great party. Truly, an unforgettable experience. I wish them a lifetime of love and happiness. Here is to them, the happy couple!

Wedding Season...

2007-07-08T14:43:00.000-07:00

In the past week, I have managed to make it to two weddings here in Bulgaria. And I haven't even been to that many weddings in the states. It is the beginning of the summer and love is in the air. That must be what explains it. Last Saturday, I went out to Shumen to be celebrate in the joining of 2 Peace Corps Volunteers, Jon and Tia.

(The Methodist Church)

Jon and Tia were both Peace Corps volunteers in my group. Jon was even in my training group! They were perfect strangers before they came, met, bickered, and fell in love. Now they are happily married ready to start the next chapter in their life. And I wish them all the best. Congrats!

(Trust me, they are a happy couple despite the half smile. Unfortunately, my camera failed me and these are the best pictures I got. Bust!)

Why get married in Bulgaria? Why not? Actually, they are both moving to England together after Bulgaria, so maybe that is their excuse. I could only begin to imagine how hard it must be to plan a wedding in Bulgaria with the ever difficult language, the sometimes frustrating people, and the small things that might be hard to find, well, and the big things like the dress. From what I have seen in shops, Bulgarian dresses are not the most becoming with too many frills and whatsits covering the thing.

(The bride and groom enjoying some time old traditions.)

But somehow, Tia and Jon managed to pull it off. The dresses were amazing, the ceremony beautiful. Family and friends alike made it out and enjoyed the party. It was a great success!

Highlights of the ugliest city ever...

2007-07-07T12:49:00.000-07:00

A few good points from the trip (trying to stay positive here)...

The friendly people. Seriously, everyone seemed so nice. They would go out of their way to help us by calling the hostel for directions, personally taking us to find the bus, and just plain smiling. It was a nice change.

(The Ruin Bar. Thats what the guidebook says, but it looks a bit too ruined and unsafe to really be a working club anymore. Who knows.)

The good food. Although at times it proved difficult to find decent places to eat, once they were found, the food was amazing. We enjoyed many interesting tapas, delicious salads that did not consist only of tomatoes, cucumbers and cheese, sandwiches, and of course a few beers.

The historic, bohemian quarter. This was a livelier place with some very funky and fun cafes. Instead of giving ourselves heat stroke, we decided to pub hop and make an evening out of it. The area turned into being a bit dodgy as the sun set, but interesting nonetheless.

(Max: more of a tour guide than the tour guide. The palace tour was all too unimpressive.)

The House of the People. Also known as the Palace of the Parliament building. This was the former dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu's big idea. It is a very Stalinist structure making it the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon. (I must figure out what the 3rd one is seeing as I have now been to both top two.) The building began construction in 1984, and was unfinished when the dictator was overthrown and executed. It is constructed entirely of materials of Romanian origin, being said that it used up the entire Romanian supply of marble. Due to its immense size of the building, it essentially demolished about a fifth of the historic district razing entire neighborhoods and forcing people to relocate. This just shows how his policies were chaotic and megalomaniac.

(View from the palace. The balcony where Michael Jackson came and made the mistake of saying hello Budapest, instead of Bucharest. As you can see, even the grounds are poorly kept.)

All in all, Bucharest is not a city I would recommend to the avid traveler. I am certain it has it must have its good parts and hidden treasures. You probably just need to know where to look. And we just didn't seem to know.

A Quick Jaunt up North...

2007-07-06T01:28:00.000-07:00

As you know, I am now free from work and Peace Corps. Most people would say unemployed, but I prefer the term free spirit. And what a better way to celebrate this freedom, and the Fourth of July, than with a quick, unplanned jaunt out of the country and up to Romania.

I knew little about my destination to the capital city before I ventured there other than what I read in the trusty guidebook. (Although actually, the guidebook used was a few years old, and was not all that trusty at all.) My friend Max and I took the quick bus ride from the Danube city of Ruse in Bulgaria, crossed the only bridge linking Bulgaria and Romania, and were dropped off in a parking lot in the middle of town. After finding the hostel we were ready to hit the town.

Well, we tried anyways. We avoided the overcrowded and hot city buses and took to the even hotter streets by foot. It must have been at least 100 degrees out. We walked and walked and walked. And then walked some more before we could even find a corner shop selling water. Our first impressions were not good, but I was willing to give Bucharest a fighting chance. Alas, Bucharest put up a lousy fight.

The city was, to be honest, probably one of the worst cities I have ever visited. It was ugly with ornate fountains ruined by dyed water (look at the picture above). The public transport was lacking as the buses were overcrowded and few and far between. The streets were super sized with an immense traffic problem. Not to mention the city was hot, noisy and dusty at all times. There was no real center to the city and it definitely did not cater to tourists at all. We couldn't even buy a cheesy souvenir. Postcards were even hard to come by. And finally, we were almost shocked at how expensive things seemed to be. I know it is a European capital city, but I guess I expected something different.

Homemade Brew...

2007-07-05T02:37:00.000-07:00

Rakia. A staple in the Bulgarian life and a centuries old tradition learned by generation after generation. A sharp, strong homemade brandy is distilled from grapes or plums grown in their backyards. Rakia distilling is not considered so much as a business but as part of a tradition. A tradition that some consider to be the last stronghold in the traditional way of life. Almost every home makes their own special brew and stores them in ordinary plastic bottles, usually with an old coke label on it. Some say the homemade stuff is better than the store bought stuff. But I would have to disagree. For me, the home brew tastes more like paint thinner than brandy.

This same drink is now causing a big stir in Bulgaria and the rest of the EU. With their recent entrance into the EU, they are now forced to pay a tax, a tax which has Bulgarians outraged. The tax increases the price of making 40 liters of rakia from about €10, in distillery costs — for those who use a public still — to nearly €100.

Protests have erupted in grape- and plum-growing regions and Bulgarians are pouring their home brew on the streets to take a stand. Many residents hurried to distill their grapes before the tax took effect on Jan. 1 while others have avoided the distilleries out of fear.

The new tax is mandated by a 1992 EU directive setting the minimum excise at €550 for 100 liters, or 26 gallons, of pure alcohol. The tax has been applied since then in other EU countries where farmers traditionally distill local brandies. In Bulgaria, because rakia usually contains 40 percent alcohol, this works out to €2.20 a liter.

In its EU accession agreement, Bulgaria obtained a 50 percent reduction of the tax for those who grow their own fruit and use a still producing more than 1,000 liters a year. They will pay €1.10 a liter for up to 30 liters produced for personal consumption. But if they have more than 30 liters distilled, the entire quantity will be taxed at the higher rate.

For rural Bulgarians, even the reduced tax — the first attempt to regulate rakia in the post-Communist era — is an enormous expense. Few political issues in recent years have created such broad and deep public indignation.

This tax would hit local residents' way of life. Most own vineyards and almost every house has its own small still. Under the new law, every unregistered still will be illegal, punishable by a fine of 500 to 3,000 lev, or €250 to €1,500.

Although many wonder how it will actually be enforced. And as it is in Bulgarians nature, when there is a will there is a way. I am sure they will still keep on keepin on with their rakia.

Bulgaria in a nut shell...

2007-07-03T15:07:00.000-07:00

Bulgaria may just be driving me crazy. But I cant help but loving it even more. Here is a really funny video that was made by some Bulgarian students. It is oh so funny, and yet very, very true.

Click the following to link to see the video... "Bulgaria - a country of unlimited... impossibilities."

Here might be some of the most important things you need to know about Bulgaria, things I have come to know well over the past 2+ years. No exaggeration.

(Me going crazy.... But really, just caught in a candid moment laughing on a beautiful Bulgarian hillside.)

Cultural Differences: The head nod. Bulgarians shake and nod their heads opposite of the rest of the world. Yes means No. And No means Yes. What do I mean? A back and forth head shake and the the side-to-side head bobble means yes. Whereas the up and down nod means no as well as the quick head jerk down. There is no place else in the world that does this. This is made even more confusing when Bulgarians realize you’re a foreigner, and they decide to "help" you by switching to what the rest of the world does. So really, you never can be sure what is going on.

Architecture: The good old communist concrete block. Some may call them socialist geniuses. I don't know who, but they might. People came, started to build, and then just vanished. Throughout Bulgaria you can see the abandoned buildings that never quite got off the ground. I think a lot of this has to do with the fall of communism and people pulling out of a current project to take the money instead.

Sightseeing: Right when you are about to take a picture, something is going to get in your way. Bulgarians seem to have this way about stepping right in front of your photo. Its crazy really. They either just simply dont care, or really dont see you. But come on, how can they not see you when you are standing there pointing your camera at that beautiful church, or whatever you are shooting.

Street Traffic: Bulgarians are known for their fierce driving. They will never stop for a pedestrian, and I mean never. (Remember the blog about me almost getting my foot run over.) And the sidewalks are even worse. In Bulgaria, I think sidewalk is a synonym for parking lot. You can hardly find a proper sidewalk that is not overtaken by parked cars. And then there is the city transport. I tend to take the public buses or trams, but if you are up for it maybe you can hitch a ride with the horse and cart driving by. You never know, they may just give you a lift.

Tradition: Hospitality. I think Bulgarians might just be the most hospitable people ever. You can go over to a friends house for hours uninvited and they will still serve you a feast. First you will start with rakia(home made brandy) and Shopska (cucumber, tomato and cheese) Salad. Then you will have more rakia. Then of course meatballs and sausages. Served with more rakia. For dessert, rakia. And more rakia. You will drink rakia into the early hours until you can hardly manage to walk.

The WC: Also known as the water closet. Don't get me started on that.

Culture: There is a cultural legacy here. And it is called Chalga, or Pop Folk music. And for me, it is like nails on a chalkboard. There is no real talent needed to be a Chalga star. You simply need to be a really ugly guy with long hair and bad clothes, or a female with too much makeup, huge boobs, and wearing nearly nothing. There is a joke here... Most people like to just watch chalga with the volume turned low.

Shopping: I just don't bother here. But the second hand shops seem to be a big hit. Although, a friend told me once that when he tried to take his old clothing to the second had store, the store wouldnt take it. He was giving them 2 large bags of free second hand clothes....for the SECOND HAND store. What were the shopkeepers not understanding. So he decided to take it to the "other" second hand store, the side of the dumpster where someone was sure to rifle though the bags.

People: The greatest resource for Bulgaria. Although, there seems to be some population limitation program that keeps the population growth from growing. It is actually decreasing. And it is sad sight to see the old pensioners or retired people sifting through dumpsters to find something of value, maybe even something to eat. The government ought to give them more.

Nightlife: You can either go out with friends, have party in your apartment, or go for a night stroll. But beware, you may get mugged, beaten and flashed. Well, it doesnt have to be in the night to get flashed. You can simply walk through your local park and surely a man in a trench coat will show all. Trust me, its happened to me.

Of course, these are just some of the highlights of Bulgaria. Some of the fascinating and simultaneously frustrating parts about life here. Some of the things that, as much as I cant stand at times, will ultimately miss when I leave. Ah, Bulgaria. A land of magic and beauty.

Goodbye Peace Corps...

2007-07-02T10:45:00.000-07:00

Monday, July 2nd. Today, is my last day as a Peace Corps Volunteer.

A lot of my friends I started this adventure with have already gone home, are traveling around for a bit, or are getting ready to leave shortly. It is all very sad. Sad to say goodbye to the people that were in it together with you. But this second year has been, in most respects, much better than the first. I've found how to live in Bulgaria, a very foreign country (it took awhile, despite all that training in the beginning) and I have found how not to be lonely when my American friends are not around. I have gained so much from this experience. I have gained many insights into Bulgaria, the people and the culture that makes this place truly Bulgaria, a one of a kind place.

I've reached the end of my Peace Corps journey. Two years ago I headed out not having any idea what I was getting myself into but trusting the fact that plenty of people had done it before me and I would be fine. I can't say these two years went by quickly. I was 22 when I stepped off that plane, and now I am 24, nearly 25. I guess in the whole scheme of things, that is not that long. Only two years in the span of a lifetime ahead. I know when I look back on my service it will seem but a small moment in time.

It takes a special type of person to be a Peace Corps volunteer and finish service. We are tight knit group and together we've done what most would fail at or even attempt. I have finished my Peace Corps service. I feel like I have made a difference at my school and with some of my students. I know I did not reach all my students, but as they say, if you have reached one person and made a difference in their life, than you have succeeded. I feel like I have succeeded. I have accomplished all my goals I set myself, however difficult it may have been at times.

As one of my friends said, "I am a better person because of this experience. I have been humbled by these experiences and my eyes have been opened to an entirely new way of looking at other cultures and people. I have looked at my own country from the perspective of an ocean away. I've experienced another country in a way that no tourist ever could." I couldn't agree more. A long time ago I made a decision and I stood by it. I joined the Peace Corps. It has been my dream since the beginning of college when I first discovered what the Peace Corps was exactly. I have fulfilled this dream, and fulfilled it proudly. Now, I must find a new dream. I have a world of opportunities awaiting me. So off I go, goodbye Peace Corps, and thanks for the memories.

What's Wrong With American High Schools

2007-06-29T06:38:00.000-07:00

By Bill Gates, chairman of Microsoft, and co-founder of the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation.

Our high schools are obsolete.

By obsolete, I don't just mean that they are broken, flawed and underfunded —although I can't argue with any of those descriptions.

What I mean is that they were designed 50 years ago to meet the needs of another age. Today, even when they work exactly as designed, our high schools cannot teach our kids what they need to know.

Until we design high schools to meet the needs of the 21st century, we will keep limiting — even ruining — the lives of millions of Americans every year. Frankly, I am terrified for our workforce of tomorrow.

The idea behind the old high school system was that you could train an adequate workforce by sending only a small fraction of students to college, and that the other kids either couldn't do college work or didn't need to.

Sure enough, today only one-third of our students graduate from high school ready for college, work and citizenship.

The others, most of whom are low-income and minority students, are tracked into courses that won't ever get them ready for any of those things — no matter how well the students learn or how hard the teachers work.

In district after district across the country, wealthy white kids are taught Algebra II, while low-income minority kids are taught how to balance a checkbook.

This is an economic disaster. In the international competition to have the best supply of workers who can communicate clearly, analyze information and solve complex problems, the United States is falling behind. We have one of the highest high school dropout rates in the industrialized world.

In math and science, our fourth-graders rank among the top students in the world, but our 12th-graders are near the bottom. China has six times as many college graduates in engineering.

As bad as it is for our economy, it's even worse for our students. Today, most jobs that pay enough to support a family require some post-secondary education. Yet only half of all students who enter high school enroll in a post-secondary institution.

High school dropouts have it worst of all. Only 40% have jobs. They are nearly four times more likely to be arrested than their friends who stayed in high school. And they die young because of years of poor healthcare, unsafe living conditions and violence.

We can put a stop to this. We designed these high schools; we can redesign them.

We have to do away with the outdated idea that only some students need to be ready for college and that the others can walk away from higher education and still thrive in our 21st century society. We need a new design that realizes that all students can do rigorous work.

There is mounting evidence in favor of this approach. Take the Kansas City, Kan., public school district, where 79% of students are minorities and 74% live below the poverty line. For years, the district struggled with high dropout rates and low test scores. In 1996, it adopted a school-reform model that, among many other steps, requires all students to take college-prep courses. Since then, the district's graduation rate has climbed more than 30 percentage points.

Kansas City is not an isolated example. Exciting work is underway to improve high schools in such cities as Oakland, Chicago and New York.

All of these schools are organized around three powerful principles: Ensure that all students are given a challenging curriculum that prepares them for college or work; that their courses clearly relate to their lives and goals; and that they are surrounded by adults who push them to achieve.

This kind of change is never easy. But I believe there are three ways that political and business leaders at every level can help build momentum for change in our schools.

First, declare that all students must graduate from high school ready for college, work and citizenship. Every politician and chief executive in the country should speak up for the belief that children need to take courses that prepare them for college.

Second, publish the data that measure our progress toward that goal. We already have some data that show us the extent of the problem. But we need to know more: What percentage of students are dropping out? What percentage are graduating? And this data must be broken down by race and income.

Finally, every state should commit to turning around failing schools and opening new ones. When the students don't learn, the school must change. Every state needs a strong intervention strategy to improve struggling schools.

If we keep the system as it is, millions of children will never get a chance to fulfill their promise because of their ZIP Code, their skin color or their parents' income. That is offensive to our values.

Every kid can graduate ready for college. Every kid should have the chance.

Let's redesign our schools to make it happen.

School Days....

2007-06-28T08:42:00.000-07:00

My school. Romain Rolland. This is where I teach a long 4 day work week. This is where I had my final days of teaching. It is hard to believe that my two year stint of teaching is over. But I couldn't have asked for a better ending. One of my 9th grade classes emailed me to see if it was okay to have a party for the last day of class. A party! Why of course! The party was a big hit. We had drinks and sweets and balloons....and music! Ivailo, the kid with the big hair who always sits in the back, brought in his guitar and started playing. I was so touched. The line up included "Hero" by Enrique Iglesias, "Bed of Roses" by Bon Jovi, and to top it off "Leaving on a Jet Plane" by John Denver. He even sang a song that he wrote himself...in English. Quite impressive actually. It was a quick class, and sad to say goodbye.

Here is an email I got from my student Maggie after I sent her a quick email saying thanks for the party:

"I am so glad you liked it because that was the purpose! We really tried to make your last lesson great. Throughout the year we all enjoyed your interesting and exciting classes. I just got a lot of experience with you because you managed to learn us how to be more social and talkative, not to be aware of what we think and just see what is it actually like to have a foreigner as a teacher. The only thing I regret about is that we won't be able to see you again in our school, town and country, which is sad! I felt pretty good when we had to do all kinds of activities I hadn't done before. I just do not know what else to say in terms of how you helped us all to improve your language skills!!! We will miss you very very very much!:)"

How great is that! It's a very touching email if I may say so. I really will miss all my Bulgarian students I have taught these past 2 years. I will always remember them and wish them all the best in the future!

Botev Peak!

2007-06-26T09:18:00.000-07:00

This was a proud moment for me in Bulgaria. I hiked Botev Peak. I hiked the 7700 foot peak!!! It is not the tallest peak in Bulgaria, but it is the tallest peak in the Central Balkan National Park, which includes the Stara Planina or Old Mountains. And so the story goes....

(A big smile as we finally reached the top.)

First, I headed to the northern town of Svishtov where I met up with my friend Max, a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer. With a good nights rest behind us, we took the hot stuffy micro bus to Troyan, where we then waited for the next bus out to Apriltsi. This is where the true adventure started. We stocked up on plenty of water and food as we would be out in the nature for several days. Away from the hot dusty towns of Bulgaria, but tucked away in the fresh mountain air. We managed to find a ride out to the trail head in the small village of Vidima, where we started the adventure up the northern side of the mountain. From hot melting asphalt, past mountain rivers, up the steep forest path, and a good 5500 feet up and 4 or 5 hours later we finally made it to our destination for the night. Hidja Pleven. More accurately, we made it to our mountain hut. (On a side note, this was probably the nicest mountain hut I have stayed in here in Bulgaria. They had warm showers, a firm bed, a hot meal, cold beer, and even satellite TV. Although, why bother with the TV when the views and nature are way more desirable.)

(Trail sign at Hidja Pleven pointing the way to Botev.)

Another good nights rest, and we rose early ready to tackle the mountain. I knew it would be challenging and exhausting, but to be frank, I was nervous for what lay ahead. The first leg of the hike was about 500 meters straight up hill. At least I knew what was in store. It was only going to get harder from there. The hike was amazing. The views constantly amazed me, being that much more impressive the higher we climbed. We had a few easier passes along the ridge, but as we continued on, the paths were getting steeper and steeper. The last leg of the climb was incredibly difficult as it was straight uphill for at least an hour or so. But once we reached the top, nothing seemed to matter. I felt refreshed and revitalized by just being there, looking out and taking in the breathtaking sights all around. I no longer seemed tired but ready for more.

(Paradise Waterfall)

And more is what we got. We decided to take the adventure one more step ahead and hike over the mountain, coming down on the Southern side of the mountain. This gave us a chance to see more of the protected reserves we were gallivanting through. Our next destination was Hidja Rai, another mountain hut where we hoped to find shelter for the night. I was looking forward to the hike down, but didn't realize it would turn out to be so hard. It was a steep, rocky path down in the blaring sun. We had almost reached the hut when were were suddenly caught in a huge storm. Lightening struck, thunder sounded, and hail followed. It came at a beautiful moment though. We had just reached the Raisko Praskalo or Paradise waterfall. It is the highest waterfall in Bulgaria at 410 feet. Magnificent! Had it not been storming, we probably would have hiked to the waterfall, but instead just kept going.

(The end. Tired and beat up. We made it up, over and down the other side!)

We finally reached the hidja only to discover they were all booked up for the night. But not to fret, we made friends with two kind Bulgarians who offered to give us a ride into the city when we reached the bottom. As it turned out they were very avid hikers and it was hard to keep up. It made me incredibly thankful to have Max around. I am sure he could have hiked a bit faster than was my pace, but we were in it together as he said. He was very patient and encouraging though it all. Not in any rush at all. A good hiking buddy. After 12 hours, one bee sting, and a couple of sore bodies, we made it to the bottom in one piece. I must say, this had to be one of the coolest things I have ever done. It was incredibly challenging, both physically and mentally. But man, so worth it. I cant wait for the my next climb!!

Continuing on with the friends...

2007-06-21T09:09:00.000-07:00

Well, I think I have talked about the main highlights of my friends visit. But let me just wrap things up. We spent the next couple of days in Stara going to class and relaxing in between. My students prepared some original plays and performed them for my friends. Although I must say, I was a bit disappointed as many of the groups were not ready. Afterwards we had an open panel discussion where many questions were answered and topics discussed. In other classes, my students taught my friends how to Horo, the traditional Bulgarian dance.

From Stara we took a quick trip to Plovdiv, a bigger city that is still able to keep the charm of an old town with its traditional style buildings and homes. After taking my friends to 7 or 8 different cities, I hoped their impressions wouldn't get monotonous thinking Plovdiv was just another medium-sized city where everything is in Cyrillic. But in fact I think they loved it and thought it was unlike any other city we previously explored. It's a green city with quite a few historical sites that we poked our heads around. Along the main boulevard there are some Roman ruins, including part of a small amphitheater that was apparently uncovered in the 1970s by a freak landslide... (Not sure if that is true.) There are also an awful lot of nice antique shops as you climb up the hill toward the really historic part of the city. My friends purchased more pottery and souvenirs but alas, ran out of room in their bags for anything more.

Then it was to off to the big capital city. Sofia! Sofia is usually the first impression people get of Bulgaria. But in fact, I find Sofia to be very unrepresentative of the rest of the country. But I guess most capital cities are like this. Sofia was not the fist impression of Bulgaria for my friends but their last. For me, in the beginning, I was never really a fan of Sofia. I thought it was big, dusty, and hard to get around. I always managed to get lost and never knew where anything was. But after so many trips to the capital for Peace Corps stuff or travels abroad, I slowly found my way around and discovered many things I have come to love about Sofia. I have my favorite hostel, my favorite restaurants I always hit up when I am in town, and then there is the night life - with many places to go out (but I will get to that in a minute).

Of course there are also the sights. That is not quite as fun after the 10th time you have been there playing tour guide to guests. But like a good tour guide, I had yet to fail my friends and was not going to start. We walked around the center briefly checking out the sites. Alexander Nevski Church. The National Palace of Culture and the adjacent monument voted ugliest site in Sofia. Vistosha Street, the Rodeo Drive of Bulgaria. The 4th century Church of St. George hidden behind the Sheraton Hotel. The former Royal Palace now housing the National Art Gallery. The yellow brick road. And others.

Lately, I’ve spent a lot of time in Sofia, always discovering something new. And I have come to find Sofia to be a very eclectic city. There is a variety of things one can do here. It’s actually not a dull city at all, you just have to know where to go. And most PCVs pass along their favorite spots making the list very long of cool places . Some of those places include...the Lebanese restaurant where one can never be disappointed with the hummus and delicious salads...the beer hall where service lacks but the beers are always free flowing...Maskata, the like rock club out in the Students District...the basement of the National Library that acts as a Karaoke club at night...and the list goes on and on.

After 10 days, 3 nights of Karaoke, a few nights on the floor, 2 days of class, countless Shopska salads, many carafes of wine, one run in with a cop, a broken down car, 8 or 9 cities, many more sites, one lightening storm, some broken pottery, lots of souvenirs, a few more tan lines, a couple extra suitcases than started with, many new friends, and unforgettable stories, I think my friends had a blast in Bulgaria. I am so happy I was able to share with them what my life has been like for the past 2 years. Now when I talk about it at home, they will know exactly what I mean because they have been there too!

Dare I say it, but I think my friends came to love Bulgaria and have found it just as charming and lively as I have, even when they felt a bit lost with the backwards head nods and the ever confusing Cyrillic signs, an alphabet they cant begin to understand.

Good Old Shipka and Buzludja.

2007-06-20T08:03:00.000-07:00

Ah, what is a trip to Bulgaria without seeing the Shipka church, the freedom monument, and the old communist meeting point. It seems these are the places I take people when they come to visit. They are close to Stara, important to the Bulgarian history, and quite interesting. I am sure I have talked of these places before so I wont bore you now.

But what I will tell you is what the girls found most interesting. Buzludja, the communist meeting point. It was built in 1974, finished in 1981. Most books and information I find on it, which is not very much, say the building was meant as a monument built in the rememberance of brave partisans who perished during WWII. Sometimes they also say it was a museum. But none of my Bulgarian friends that I have talked to seem to agree. They all say it was a meeting point, a big conference location for all the big wigs in the communist party.

Whatever the case may be, I find this to be one of my favorite things I have seen in Bulgaria. It is run down and shut off from the public. But if you just stroll around the building you will find a small entrance, the entrance we took to get in. Inside is even more interesting. With beautiful marble floors, the remnants of the old red velvet carpeting, and the ornate mosaics lining the walls,. I may paint a pretty picture of it in writing, but as you can see from the pictures, it is completely in shambles and not even that safe to be walking around. I think the shape it is in now has even gotten worse than the last time I was there last summer with my parents.

Aileen and I were the only two braves ones to go inside. Ginger and Alanna decided to avoid all the bee like insects and head back to the car. When Aileen and I finally returned we got back on the road only to discover our car had overheated. But seeing as we were in the middle of nowhere, we decided to head back to the Shipka Freedom Monument and call for help. The tube from the water to the radiator had come undone and was leaking. The car was not only hot, but there was not water! That is where my trusty Bulgarian skills came in handy again. We had a repair guy come and within a couple of hours we were back on the road to Stara where we called it quits with the car.

(This is us, looking very concerned after I called the repair guy to come help us. It turned out to be a good story.)

Perperikon

2007-06-19T07:18:00.000-07:00

From the Black Sea to the south. We continued the adventure down to the ancient Thracian city called Perperikon. It is said to be a palace and the oldest Thracian capital.

Here is also found the earliest chirch dating from the mid-5th Century, the time when Christianity was adopted in the Rhodope mountains. It was also a major military stronghold and a city existed here until the 14th Century, when the Turks invaded the area in 1362. Perperikon is also famous for its gold production.

Perperikon is off the beaten track a bit and is impossible to get to without a car. We followed the signs leading to the old city and made a quick little hike up the hill to be amazed. The weather was hot, but views were amazing. We even had a tourist map, although the dimensions appeared to be off a bit, to help guide us through the small rock city.

From here, we made the trek back to Stara, stopping at a rock formation. Most of the rock formations in the southern region near the town of Kurdjuli originated from the volcanic eruptions that raised the land from the sea forty million years ago, and whose ashes solidified into the porous golden-colored rock. We were unable to find the "Stone Wedding", a formation that follows the legend that a wedding party was turned to stone. But we did find the Stone Mushrooms. They are large formations with brown spotted stalks and pink caps. But to me, they looked more like big marshmallows.

Neseber and Sozopol...

2007-06-18T13:14:00.000-07:00

Nesebar is one of the oldest towns in Europe, well known with its antiquity and exotic monuments, its fascinating architecture of the Middle Ages and the National Revival period. The town is situated on a small rocky peninsula in the Northern part of the Burgas bay. In 1956 Nesebar was proclaimed an archaeological and architectural reserve and in 1983 the cultural monuments of the town were included in the list of UNESCO.

(Aileen looking like a greek goddess in the remains of an old church.)

Sozopol is another ancient town on the Black Sea. The town itself is beautiful, but I thought Nesebar was much more impressive. But as for the beach, Sozopol just topped my list.

(The 4 beach babes getting ready to say goodbye to the good life of the Black Sea.)

Both places are major tourist attractions in the Burgas Bay. And when the true summer months hit, you will find yourself surrounded by Germans, Brits, Americans, and of course Bulgarian tourists soaking up the sun and taking in the charm of these 2 cities...just like we did.

The Rental Car and the Black Sea...

2007-06-17T08:29:00.000-07:00

Day Three - Five: To avoid some of the hassles that come along with the public transport in this country, we decided to rent a car for a few days. There was a good, cheap place in Stara where we picked up the car. As anyone who has ever driven in a foreign country knows, it can be really stressful driving on the roads not entirely knowing where you are going. This was the case with my friends. I sat in shotgun playing navigator to Ginger as she headed out of Stara and onto the highway.

(Our red Clio Renault car...)

After a few minutes we felt confident we were headed in the right direction just excited for the sunny sands of the black sea. But that excitement soon died as we were pulled over about 10 minutes into the trip. The cop held out his wand that says stop and we pulled into the shoulder. He approached the car soon to discover it was full of foreigners. He asked if anyone spoke Bulgarian and that was my cue to get out and handle the situation. I walked over to his car where his cop buddy was standing ready to show me the speed gun stating that we were going 79 in a 50 km zone. I apologized and explained the situation. After a few minutes of chatting, he let us go. No ticket and no bribe. I felt very proud of myself for taking charge and getting us out of that sticky situation. With fear in our bones, we took the rest of the ride slow and steady.

(View from Jack and Ronda's place as the sun was setting on our first night there.)

Finally we arrived in Burgas where we were met by Jack and Ronda, two happily married Peace Corps Volunteers with some amazing stories. We stayed in their wonderful apartment for the weekend as we ventured to the beautiful seaside.

(The beach of Sozopol.)

June is still considered the early season so the beaches were not crowded yet at all. The weather was great and the water warm for out lazy 2 days of beach bumming. You know that saying, "when in Rome do as the Romans." My friends and I did just that...well, sort of. The beaches here are known for the topless girls. No, we didn't sunbathe topless. Instead, we swam far out, took our tops off, and swung them around our heads. That is about as daring as we got. But hey, now we can say we went topless on the Black Sea. That's a story for the grandkids!

Friends Visiting....

2007-06-16T16:56:00.000-07:00

I have had three beautiful friends visiting me for the last 10 days. Hence the delay in posting. They arrived on Wednesday, June 6th and went back to their lives Saturday, June 16th. We traveled all over Bulgaria by foot, bus, taxi and car. Visited 9 cities, sang karaoke 3 different times, and even celebrated one birthday. Bare with me as I slowly start posting the pictures and stories from the great adventure.

Day One: Girls arrive in Sofia Airport. We immediately head to Stara Zagora by a 3 hour bus. Freshen up a bit before heading out for a quiet night on the town of dinner and drinks.

(Me, Ginger, Aileen and Alanna)

What was meant to be a quiet night turned into a night of a bit of drunken debauchery. While sitting at my favorite bar Drums, a table of guys started buying us drinks because one of them just had a baby. (It is customary to treat people when celebrating something big like this.) When it was time to go, I think we left many wounded soldiers (unfinished drinks) on the table.

Day Two: Alanna's 25th Birthday!!! We attended class, explored the city and pumped ourselves for a bit of Karaoke. My sitemate Alex had 3 friends in town who joined us as well as some of my former students. (Alanna, the birthday girl, Aileen, and me)

It was a happening night of Bulgarian style partying. From Karaoke we hit up the disco for some dancing. And topped off the night with the lobby bar for one last drink, or water in some cases.

(Alanna walking home as the sun is coming up!)

I think it was an unforgettable birthday for Alanna and fun was had by all. But I must say, the next morning was a bit un-fun as most of us were trying to get over the hang over. My friends tell me, they are not used to this kind of partying. It is hard to keep up.

COS and my new glasses....

2007-06-06T11:35:00.000-07:00

In the Peace Corps world of acronyms, COS stands for Close of Service. Maybe I have mentioned this before but it is hard to keep all of them straight. But you will probably here me mention my COS quite a bit. Over the next few weeks, I will be in and out of the Peace Corps office getting lots of papers signed, writing reports, and wrapping things up. This also includes the final medical exam as well.

And wouldn't you believe it, I need glasses!!!

Because this is something new for me, Peace Corps pays for my new glasses. I went with one of the medical staff members to pick out a pair. It is hard picking out glasses, especially when you have never really worn them before. The first pair is a funky set of red and light green glasses. They look much better in person than in this picture. Trust me!

As it turned out, glasses in Bulgaria are incredibly cheap. So, I decided to go ahead and get a second pair in case something happens to the other pair. I don't want to have to pay the ridiculous prices for a new pair when I get back to the states. Here is the second pair I picked. It was actually the other pair I was debating between when I got the other pair. This set is much more conservative.

And you don't have to tell me, I already know....Bulgaria is slowly breaking me (as my family says)!

INXS Comes to Sofia...

2007-06-03T19:06:00.000-07:00

This past weekend I went to the long awaited concert of INXS.

Posters have been all over Bulgaria for months advertising the 80s Australian rock band. And it worked as fans filled the concert hall ready to rock out.

(Picture during the concert. I couldnt manage to keep a steady hand.)

I think many people were somewhat skeptical of the performance concerning the manner in which the new lead singer was going to replace Michael Hutchence, who died some 10 years ago. But I think he did a kick ass job. But I must be honest here, I never really listened to INXS much before. I just wanted to take advantage of the super cheap show and of course rock out to 80s music.

(Melody and I at the end of the show with beer in hand.)

I attended the concert with my good friend Melody and a whole bunch of miners who are working in a nearby town. I met 4 of them randomly in Stara Zagora during a night out partying, and they happened to mention they were going because after all, one of them was Australian.

(Friends Kev, the Aussie, and Matt, the American.)

And according to one of the local papers here "For those who were present at the concert meeting the old but new band was love at first sight and “they will never, never tear us apart…”"

It was good times had by all, and I cant wait for my next concert, whatever it may be!

Preslava and the joys (and non-joys) of Chalga....

2007-05-29T14:07:00.000-07:00

Melody, Eric, Tryavna, Preslava, and so went my first real taste to Chalga in two years.

Of course I have heard Chalga. I mean, who hasn't? It is everywhere. It is always played blaringly loud no matter where you are...the bus, the cafe, your next door neighbors apartment. It is EVERYWHERE! But what is it you ask. Well, let me see here.

(Preslava in Tyravna)

According to Wikipedia, Chalga is a type of Bulgarian popular music, sometimes synonymous with pop folk. It draws back from Balkan folk traditions and incorporating Arabic, Turkish, Greek, and Roma (Gypsy) influences. Although many claim to hate the genre of music, it is still the leading music played in bars and clubs. (There is a big rivalry between Chalga fans, and those who hate it. You are either a Chalga fan or you aren't. Simple as that. Seriously, you could put Bulgarians into these two groups. There is no in between.)

Some even say it is a second rate musical genre. With stupid and pointless lyrics, the educated of Bulgaria dismiss the music, while the uneducated and unrefined are the real fans. Is this true? I don't know. And I wont even begin to decide. Sounds like we might even be talking about the Country music of America if you put it in those terms.

(Preslava: She might just be more famous for her knockers than her music.)

There is a common joke in Bulgaria. Well, I don't know if it is common or just something I have heard here and there. But it goes like this. "One does not listen to Chalga, they watch Chalga." The pictures I have posted don't do this joke justice. It simply means that Chalga singers are sex objects, like any pop singer would be. The difference is that their music is so horrible it is not even worth listening to. People would rather stare at the enormous silicone-filled breasts and scantly clad dressed girls in their high heels, than listen to the music.

(Melody and me at Preslava!)

This post should have come 2 years ago when I first got to country and discovered what is so very Bulgarian - Chalga. But it is only now I share this because I recently went to my first, and probably my last Chalga concert. I had the great pleasure to experience something so Bulgarian, I almost liked it just for that reason. I saw the ever famous Preslava in concert.

(While searching online for a good definition of what Chalga music really is, I came across a very interesting, yet long article about one man's encounter of the music. To read more, click the following link... "Bulgaria's Chalga Music" by Matt Pointon.)

So, that is that. My shpeal about Chalga music. And for the record. I am NOT a fan.

Tryavna...

2007-05-28T13:39:00.000-07:00

I got a message on my computer one night when I was out that said "Saturday night we are going to Tryavna. The train is at 4pm. You are going and we will be seeing Preslava." As you can tell from the message I didn't really have a choice. My friend Melody was going to drag me there if I liked it or not. But really, I was excited. I have been wanting to get to this town for 2 years now. AND...my good friend Eric lives there. He has made it out to Stara countless times, but I never managed to make it out that way. Well that day had finally come, 2 years later!

(A symbol of the Stara Planina-old mountains. This tower can be seen in postcards, paintings and drawings of the Old Mountains. Please note: The street sign is upside down. But what would it be for in the first place? I cant quite figure that out.)

Tryavna is a beautiful town tucked in the mountains. The whole town exudes an air of the National Revival period, with the old white houses and narrow streets. As we wandered around, we passed dozens of old craft shops. But the wood carving ones are to be especially noted. It is a town famous for the wood carvings. When you walk into a building or house, you should look up and notice the intricate detail of the richly designed carved ceilings. Truly amazing.

(Eric, Ethan, and Toni, a Bulgarian friend)

The quick trip was exactly what I needed after a week full of other celebrations. And Eric played the perfect host!

(As I was taking the train back to Stara the next afternoon, I thought... Wow, that was my last chance to go to Tryavna to see Eric! It is such a strange feeling, and I know I talk about it a lot, but everything is coming to an end. My close bunch of friends are all going their separate ways, moving on from Bulgaria, and taking that next step in life.... Wow, that is going to be me in a couple of months!)

Graduation and Prom...

2007-05-25T12:56:00.000-07:00

This week my 12th graders graduated. I have taught them for the past two years and cant help but feel proud. They are an awesome group of kids and I wish them all the best in the future. Who knows, I may just run into some of them as a few are studying in the states.

(12A Class)

Graduation: It is not what we think of in the states. There are no really important speeches and then the calling of the names to receive the diploma. It is more of an informal event where the teachers, parents and students gather, put on a little show (students do skits), sing a sad song, and take pictures outside. Once pictures are taken, each class goes their own way, usually to one last dinner, one last horrah.

I was invited to have dinner with my 12A class along with another colleague and good friend Mima. We enjoyed lots of Rakia while my students tried to teach me how to "Q-check", a typical Bulgarian style dance. I think I failed miserably even though they said the opposite. From dinner, we all went to a Chalga (Bulgarian pop-folk music) club where I continued to embarrass myself with my dancing. A good night all around.

(Me and Vessela, a student)

Prom: Graduation is a fun, but I think the kids look forward to prom more. I mean, who doesn't love getting dressed to the nines looking their best. And man did everyone look great! The girls get all dolled up in beautiful gowns and the boys...well, lets just say they clean up nice!

(Me and some of the boys)

Prom is held with the entire 12th grade class of about 300 or so students. And only selected teachers attend. (Of course I was invited!) We danced until 3 in the morning, until we decided to head to a disco yet again followed by more dancing. My students stayed out much later than I did, and I didn't get home till 5:30 am. Lets just say it was a late night. I think I slept the whole next day but it was worth it!

Stara Zagora Bus Schedule

2007-05-23T10:24:00.000-07:00

Since my last post talked about traveling in Sofia, I thought I would stick to the same theme. This time lets talk about schedules. Bus schedules in particular. Most bus stations have the schedule of buses coming and going posted on the wall. That is...if there is a bus station in the town, otherwise you have to go on the hope that someone in town knows when the next bus is.

Anyways, here is Stara Zagora's bus schedule. It sometimes amazes me that people rely on this schedule. If a bus no longer runs, they black it out. If the time changes, they correct it in pen on the board. Is it just me or is this absurd? Isn't there a better, more reliable system. Sofia has it made with a wonderful website in English and Bulgarian, but I guess I would expect no less from the capital.

I wonder if, when I come back to Stara in say 5 years, will they still have the same schedule board? Oh, I hope not. I hope to see some major changes...especially in the Stara Zagora bus station. For being the 5th largest city, that station really needs some work with not only repairs but getting rid of all the sketch masters that wander around creeping me out.

This is one of those moments where I say to myself...."Ah, Bulgaria." And everything is okay and makes perfect sense.

Traveling in Sofia...

2007-05-21T10:22:00.000-07:00

As I said in my previous post, I was in Sofia this past week. And man, sometimes it can really suck to be traveling in Sofia. I generally don't mind Sofia and I was actually looking forward to getting away for a bit to the big city, with the great weather, and hoping to meet up with some friends. Well, I got to the big city, I met up with friends, but the good weather had suddenly disappeared. For the last couple months Bulgaria has had nothing but beautiful weather, reaching pretty high temperatures. Those highs seemed to have faded this week in Sofia as I was met with pouring rain, thunder and lightning, and the muddy streets of the big city.

(Inside a typical tram in Sofia...my public transportation.)

Normally the rain wouldn't bother me. If I had an umbrella and real shoes I would get over the mud. But I came to Sofia expecting hot weather and nothing but sunshine, meaning I packed no umbrella and wore flip flops for the first time all year. BUST! But all of this reminds me of a book I read awhile back.

In "Cafe Europa: Life After Communism", Slavenka Drakulic writes...

"You might associate mud with rural areas, but in Eastern European cities it returns to haunt you, the ghost of your peasant origins. I remember that in rained early that morning, and as I walked towards the old marketplace in the center, I thought I'd never get there. The streets were covered with mud and were so slippery that it was dangerous to walk there. It appeared under the asphalt, through holes and cracks - brownish, sticky, greasy, just like shit. I tried to watch my step, jumping over puddles, but there there was no way of escaping the mud. It stuck to the soles of my shoes, splashing high up to my knees..."

Nothing could be more true in a country where they continue to replace streets and sidewalks of broken tiles with more tiles that will inevitably break soon too. Why not just pave the sidewalks? Who knows. But until then, the mud will always return from hiding under the patched roads and cobblestones, waiting for its chance to overtake the city. The mud follows you home too, on your shoes and the bottom of your pants. Grrr..

My SPA Project...

2007-05-20T11:04:00.000-07:00

And I dont mean the kind of spa where you go to relax. So what is SPA??

SPA stands for Small Project Assistance. It is a a joint collaboration between USAID and Peace Corps aimed at building the capacity of local communities and organizations to reach shared goals. The program was established in 1983 and uses the human and technical resources of Peace Corps, along with the financial resources of USAID, to encourage sustainable, effective development projects.

(Before picture of English Resource Room)

SPA is a grassroots program that allows Peace Corps volunteers to design and carry out their own projects. Through the SPA program, volunteers are able to assist communities in identifying common concerns, develop strategies to address these concerns and design and implement small-scale, sustainable projects.

(Another before shot of the old room)

And since being a volunteer here, I have successfully written my very own SPA. The goal of my project was to create an English library and multi-media resource room. My school, Romain Rolland Foreign Language School, was founded in 1966 and has developed into the 3rd best school in the country, a language school no less. And as the country is gradually integrating into the European Union, there is a greater need for multi lingual skills. This trend highlights a serious need to develop the education resources in the community. And that is exactly what we have decided to do.

(After photo: The Multi Media Resource Room and English Library.)

If you walk into most schools in the states, and even most schools in Europe you will find that almost all the classrooms are equipped with a TV and DVD player or VCR. This is something rare to even find in the entirety of a Bulgarian school. Schools here not only lack the media resources but also the educational resources such as books. In some schools, students do not even have the right text book for class usually due to lack of money. Again, something that is taken for granted in the states.

(Another after shot of new room)

So, my project addresses these resource needs as well as the needs of not only technical training but professional training as well. We, meaning me and my project team, have created an English library and multi media resource room. The new resources include shelves and hundreds of new books (contemporary literature, the classics, SAT and TOEFL prep books, and teacher training books.) We also purchased a new computer, printer, projector, TV, etc.

As for the training aspect of the project, selected teachers received training on how to use the new library material and technologies. These teachers are now able to take their new acquired knowledge to train other teachers. Our current project will further allow teachers to develop their professional skills by incorporating different teaching methods in the classroom, therefore addressing the needs of students with different learning styles. It will also offer students extra material to develop their own language skills.

The project has proven to be quite a success as the room is always booked for classes and sometimes over booked. Quite a project if I do say so myself!

(Me unpacking new books bought with SPA funds!!)

After thoroughly enjoying writing my SPA project, I decided to join the SPA project committee. Each quarter, volunteers submit their project proposal drafts to members of the SPA committee (there are 8 members). We then read the drafts, comment on them and give feedback on how they can be improved. The volunteers submit their final drafts by a certain deadline where all they have to next is wait. The committee reads all projects submitted, scores their project according to a matrix, and heads to Sofia for the meeting. During the meeting we discuss at length the projects, the positive and negative things about each project, and then essentially vote on the project. They are either funded with conditions or advised to revised and resubmit.

I had my last SPA meeting this past week in Sofia (hence why I am writing this ever too long blog). Although at times I thought, "Not another project", I really enjoy this type of work. I have learned so much about grant writing and working on a diverse team. Sometimes I think I would really like to get into a field of work that includes project writing and review. I will continue to review projects if they come to me until I COS, but after that, it will be up to the remaining 6 members of the committee who still have a few extra months left in their service. I wish the committee and the applicants the best of luck.

"All that is not given is lost"

2007-05-19T08:08:00.000-07:00

This is a famous Indian proverb and one that is the theme of a book I recently finished reading.

Union Carbide was a huge, well-intentioned American corporation that invented a miracle pesticide. In the Indian city of Bhopal they built a giant plant to process it. But at five past midnight on December 1984, toxic gas leaked into the night air and was blown into the heavily populated city. And by dawn, over half a million people would be poisoned, leaving between 16 and 30 thousand people dead. That is what is written on the back cover of this touching book, an epic story of the world's deadliest industrial disaster.

Dominique Lapierre and Javier Moro have written this devastating account of Carbide's activities in Bhopal leading up to the gas leak. They are quite skillful in telling the nearly forgotten story of the Bhopal gas tragedy and its aftermath. The story which presents the greatest ever scandal of the corporate world: a chronicle of staggering negligence crowned by a giant American corporation's utter indifference for the suffering of its victims.

One reviewer wrote....
"They not only show how the plant developed and ultimately failed, but we also get a glimpse into the lives of those living right next door to the secret killer. The book brings to life for us the slum neighborhoods of Bhopal, their vibrant life and many of their characters: Gangaram the leper, Pulpul Singh the moneylender, little Padmini the tribal girl from Orissa whose wedding took place on what was to become known as "The Night of Gas" or simply "That Night".

We are also introduced to the people who built and ran the deadly pesticides plant, and are helped to understand the complex sequence of decisions and blunders which led year by year, week by week and finally, minute by minute, toward catastrophe. As a result we feel the full horror of what happened at midnight on 2 December 1984, as cocktails of deadly gases began drifting in clouds through the densely populated city lanes, killing some ten to twenty thousand immediately (many of them with eyes and mouths on fire, drowning terrified in their own body fluids), leaving behind more than half a million injured.

To this day the company has never said exactly what gases leaked, and one reason for that is that it has never appeared in court (Union Carbide is officially a "fugitive from justice" in India having failed to turn up to answer charges in the Bhopal court), it has never been compelled to face questioning under oath, and the evidence related to the world's worst ever chemical disaster has to this day never been publicly heard."

This book will truly open your eyes to the reality of what unchecked and unaccountable corporate power means. Dominique Lapierre is one of my favorite authors who also wrote "City of Joy" and "Beyond Love". This book proves the same quality as his others and is a must read if you ask me. Not to mention half of all the royalties for the book go to the Dominique Lapierre "City of Joy Indian Foundation" to support humanitarian actions in Bhopal.

Jessica from Berkeley...

2007-05-16T10:51:00.000-07:00

Awhile back I was in Sofia for a meeting with Peace Corps. I was staying at a hostel I usually frequent, Be My guest. The owner of the hostel knows Peace Corps volunteers well as they are always coming into Sofia for this and that. Every week, someone from his hostel, usually a foreigner, is interviewed for a Sofia weekly magazine. Well, that week was my lucky week! He asked if I wanted to be interviewed and of course I agreed. I made plans to meet the lady the next night after my meeting.

The interview: I was very excited as this was my first "real" interview in Bulgaria. (My students are always interviewing me for the local paper, but I have only ever seen one of the articles.) Anyways, the interview started out well, but as it progressed all I could think was "Really? You want to know my favorite place in Spain? Why? What does this have to do with anything?" If you look close enough you will be able to see just how random the interview must have been..there are names of my favorite bars in San Luis Obispo where I went to college. Like I said...basically, the entire interview did not really have any logical order, but eh. What could I do. They weren't my questions. A week later, this article was published in the magazine. A full page spread with a color picture!!

(*Note: If you click on the picture, it should open a new page and you can see a larger version of the article. You can even read if you so wish. Although you must know Bulgarian to do so!)

Rockin Roy!!!

2007-05-14T22:34:00.000-07:00

Not too long ago, I met a fellow American here in town at my favorite bar. It is more or less the ex-pat bar where all the foreigners hang out. His name is Roy. He is a southern man from Oklahoma who is the nicest guy ever. He works over at the Power Plant on the outskirts of town. And he rocks! Why does he rock?? I will tell you...

I always seem to run into him and we always talk about getting together for dinner at his house with the other volunteers in town. Well, I invited him out for my 80s bash, and he came. I think he came more for the entertainment of watching a dozen crazy Americans out in their garb than the actual 80s part. But can you blame him? We talked again about getting together, and we finally did.

(View from his amazing apartment)

On Sunday night he invited me and the other 6 Americans that were in town. He cooked us real Argentinian beef steaks, broccoli with cheddar cheese, baked potatoes with sour cream and bacon bits, and a leaf lettuce salad with Ranch dressing. We even had frozen yogurt for dessert. We enjoyed delicious wine, beer and of course a little Jack from the south. I am sure Roy thought we hadn't eaten in years because we were moaning and groaning and nearly licking our plates clean from the mm..mmm...good food. I cant wait for Mexican night next!!

(Another view from his apartment)

Why else does Roy rock? Because he almost reminds me of my dad. He has a little gray mustache above his lip, has the ankle sock tan line from golfing so much (yes, golfing in Bulgaria, and he is going to take us), and wears khaki shorts with a golf shirt. Not to mention he cooks a mean steak. (Oh, did I say that already.) My friend Melody even said, "I haven't met your dad, but that is exactly who I would picture him to be." It was almost like home.

80s night in Stara Zagora....

2007-05-13T10:06:00.000-07:00

As my group of volunteers is getting ready to leave Bulgaria over the next 2 months, I thought it only best to have one last horrah! And what a better way to do that than make it an wildly rad 80s party in Stara Zagora. About 13 people came into town for the night and we had a blast.

I must say getting ready was pretty damn fun. We rocked out to 80s music and used this video as inspiration.

I want to dance with somebody - Whitney Houston

And for anyone that knows me, they know Whitney was my idol long before Celine.

(The gang with my Bulgarian Baba (granny) and Diado (grandpa) out on their benches.)

My balcony is on the first floor, thus providing the neighborhood with loads of entertainment as we got ready. We crimped our hair, put on blue mascara and hot pink blush, and wore off the shoulder shirts. The night was filled with so many good moments but I think I the best was watching people's reactions as we walked around painting the town red. People either thought we were absolutely insane, or just foreign. Maybe both.

Excursion with the Dutch...

2007-05-12T03:15:00.000-07:00

Holland is a beautiful country. A beautifully flat country. And for that reason, we wanted to show the Dutch kids something very Bulgarian, and something they wouldn't normally see in the Netherlands. We took them to the mountains.

First stop: Bachkovo Monastery. This is the second largest Bulgarian monastery, it lies in the valley of the Chepelare river near the southern town of Assenovgrad. It is tucked in the hills of the Rhodopi mountain, which together with its size and ancient spirit make is one of the most visited monasteries in Bulgaria.

Second Stop: Wonderful Bridges. This is a rock phenomenon in the Rhodope Mountains. The "bridges" were formed by the erosive activity of the once high-water river. It transformed the marble clefts into a deep water cave, the ceiling of which whittled up through time and collapsed, allegedly during an earthquake. As a result, the two remaining bridge-shaped boulders remained. The large one (situated upstream) is 15 meters at its widest and 96 meters long, and shaped by three vault arches, the largest of which is 45 meters high and 40 meters wide. The Erkyupriya River flows under the middle-sized arch. The large Wonderful Bridge is passable under the vaults where birds nest in the marble clefts. The smaller bridge is located downstream. It is impassable.

Third Stop: Pamporovo. Pamporovo is the second largest ski resort in Bulgaria where it lies in the Rhodopi mountains. We were told the resort is pleasant to visit out of season as well, due to its picturesque surrounding areas but it was nothing but a big construction site building new resorts. It was not worth the time. But eh, what can you do.

Fourth Stop: Plovdiv. This is the second largest city in Bulgaria, situated on the Maritsa River. Plovdiv is a town built upon layers of towns and a culture developed upon layers of cultures. It is a picturesque town, with many parks and gardens, museums and archaeological monuments. Its old part, called the Old Town, with houses from the National Revival period (18-19th century), is an imposing open-air museum situated on the three hills of the ancient Trimontium. One of the most remarkable sights of the town, the Ancient Theatre (a well-preserved Roman theatre), is located there and is still used for open-air performances.

Last stop: Stara Zagora...home sweet home. The kids loved the trip to the mountains, but they were ready to get off that bus.

The Dutch have come and gone...

2007-05-11T15:23:00.000-07:00

If you remember, back in February I went to Holland with 9 Bulgarian students for a first time exchange program. Well, this past week, 9 Dutch students came to Bulgaria. It was there turn to experience the other half of the exchange. They stayed with host families, attended classes, and even made it out to the disco for some dancing.

(Ellen, Charlotte, Sanne, Rebbecca, and Bas)

They did everything from tour the city, explore Green Balkans Wildlife Center, learn a bit of the language, go on an excursion to the Bulgarian mountains, and even learn the Horo (the Bulgarian traditional dance.)

(The whole gang)

Overall, I think the exchange program was a great success. Although at first they were terrified of the hole in the ground toilets, they got over it, and in the end the kids left crying wishing they could have spent more time here. The exchange went so well, they will continue it next year....bringing two worlds together.

The art of jumping photos...

2007-05-09T12:34:00.000-07:00

Jumping photos have become my new favorite thing. But it can be tricky. So if you follow these three simple steps, you will be on your way to jumping madness.

Step One: You must practice jumping. You need to be ready to jump over and over to get that perfect picture.

Step Two: Get ready. It helps to crouch down a bit to get more momentum when going up.

Step Three: Jump! Jump as high as you can. The trick here is to tuck your legs so it looks like you got more air than you probably really did.

Bravo! Now you can take as many crazy jumping shot as you wish... you can even try new things and make funny faces. Enjoy. And happy jumping.

Now get out there...and JUMP!

The Terrible Turkish Toilets..

2007-05-07T22:02:00.000-07:00

Sometimes it can really suck to be a woman. It is tired and true, but men have it easy when it comes to using the bathroom. They get to pee standing up, while women have to squat in some pretty unbearable situations.

("жени" means women.)

Using public toilets in Bulgaria can be quite an adventure sometimes. They are usually what we like to call "Turkish" toilets, meaning they are simply a hole in the ground. Over the past 2 years I have come to frequent this type of toilet; my school even has them! And we PCVs are all pros at how to tolerate them. We go in hoping for the best, hoping for one as nice as this big shiny metal one pictured below but unfortunately they are not. This one was not even found in Bulgaria. I came across the beautiful toilet in Croatia. (And by the way, this has to be the largest Turkish toilet I have ever seen.)

Anyways, back to the point. I was out and about traveling with some friends and had to use the restroom at the bus station. And bus station bathrooms are notorious for being really bad. Considering you have to pay 30-50 stotinki, they are never clean, there is rarely toilet paper, and they just stink! But when you have to go, you have to go.

I followed a nice couple out to where the bathrooms were. As I approached, I was expecting the worse. I walked down the stairs to find no attendant, no toilet paper, and no fresh air. I went in and discovered there was no light, so I had to pee with the door open. I rolled up my pants to avoid the gross floor, I clenched my purse in my teeth and went for it. The toilet was just plain disgusting. The one pictured here is not so bad, really. But that doesn't even compare to what I had to experience.

I walked back up to meet my friends when I was stopped by the attendant that was missing earlier. He was chatting with the nice couple that initially showed me the way. But now he was asking for 2 leva for using the bathroom. TWO LEVA!!!!! Are you kidding me! I got all in a huff with him and told him this is not right and that in Bulgaria it is only 30 stotinki, maybe 50. I continued to argue with him until I finally just told him I don't have it and walked away giving him only 80 stotinki. (All done in Bulgarian, I might add.)

Angry and frustrated, I walked back to my friends where I told them the whole story. My friend Kathy was absolutely outraged and walked back over to the bathroom. She innocently asked how much it cost to use the bathroom and he said it was only 30 stotinki. She threw up her hands and started to yell at him, calling him a thief and liar. In the end, he gave her back my 50 stotinki extra that I paid. I was quite proud of Kathy and pretty much think she is a rock star for doing that. Go Kathy!!

Pechating Business

2007-05-04T09:08:00.000-07:00

Pechat in Bulagarian means stamp. So what does "pechating" mean? Well, Bulgaria has these small books with a list of 100 national sites worth seeing. (The book is pictured below.) And every time you visit one of the sites in the book, they give you a stamp. Think rubber stamp not postage stamp. Each stamp is unique to the place visited. Once you get 25 stamps, you get a bronze pin, 50, a silver pin, and all of the stamps, a gold pin.

So, in a nut shell, pechating means to go stamping. Unfortunately, I only recently got my hands on this book and have been to many more place than I have stamps for. But who knows, maybe I will make it back to those previously visited places and get that well deserved stamp. Does this sound all a bit dorky? Well, it is. But I don't care. I think it is fun and gives me more reason to reach those far off places that I may not have thought to.

And so, the pechating mission begins. With the long labor day weekend recently, it was the perfect opportunity to go off and explore more of Bulgaria. And my friends and I were up for the task. We all started in different parts of Bulgaria but met up in Ruse. We went from Ruse to Ivanovo Rock Monastery to Veliko Turnovo. We crashed in VT and headed out the next morning to Lovech. From Lovech we went to Troyan Monastery, the second largest monastery in the country next to Rila. From there we were hoping to get to Sopot, Karlovo, and Kolofer but with having to wait for buses and trains, we just couldn't hack it. That will be for another time.

As of now, I only have about 11 stamps, but had I got the book a long time ago I would have already had that bronze pin. Here is to pechating!!!

Rock Monestary...

2007-05-02T12:24:00.000-07:00

In the past two weeks, I have managed to make it up north twice. It was such a long haul the first time around, I didn't think I would be headed back..and back so soon at that. (It takes 5 hours by a really slow bus just to get to Ruse, one of Bulgaria's largest cities situated on the Danube.) The northern region of Bulgaria is quite beautiful. I haven't had the chance to fully explore the area much, but what I have seen, I have been thoroughly impressed by. They have rolling foothills that stretch on for days and with spring here, the hills are a rich green when not blanketed by all the yellow flowers in bloom right now. Breath taking, really.

With a few friends, we ventured out of the big city of Ruse to the small village of Ivanovo. Here, high in the vertical rocks above the Rusenski Lom River, churches and monk cells were built as far as back in the 12th century. By this time, there were 40 rock temples and around 300 dwellings for monk hermits.

The St. Bogoroditsa Church (or Holy Virgin Church) is the most significant in the whole complex. It is suggested that Tsar Ivan Alexander was the donor and founder of these churches. The church is hewed out in the rock at 38 meters high. And the walls are covered in bright paintings from the time of the Byzantine Renaissance depicting the life of John the Baptist, the hanging of Judas, and the passion of Christ.

The rock churches in Ivanovo are under the protection of UNESCO as a valuable monument of history. You would think it such an important sight would be easy to get to. Well, not in Bulgaria. From Ruse we took a train to the village, only to realize the actual monastery complex was about 5 or 6 kilometers away. Without a single taxi in the village, what else were we to do but start a walking. On the way we happened by some nice people and their huge van who gave us a ride out there. They even asked if we would need a ride back. A ride back! Well, of course. When we were ready, we called, and they came. And that is something I love about Bulgaria, and about Bulgaria's small villages. People are always there ready and willing to help.

(*Note: The girls from left to right...Melody, Kathy, myself, and Becca. Thanks Eric for taking the photo!)

80s night at Maskata...

2007-04-29T12:24:00.000-07:00

Maskata. One of my favorite night clubs in Bulgaria. And they have one of the best live music stages! Well, the only live music stage that I know of. Every night - a different band! Every night - a wild party till dawn! Located in the student district of Sofia, it is definitely worth checking out. I miss places like this, I miss the live bands. And I just don't get enough of it here. And thats why I love this place!

This time, we were out in full force celebrating a number of events. The welcoming back of a good friend Link, the birthday of another Link, and the farewell of Peace Corps volunteer Mark. It was fun times had by all.

See here. This isn't even the whole gang. They must have been on the dance floor getting their groove thing on.

And to make it even more interesting, some of the girls (with my convincing) decided to dress 80s style. That meant really hip clothes with crazy fun accessories. I had a weird off the shoulder shirt that said gym girl in sparkles and Carin sported an odd shirt for aerobics featuring heating class. (Tell me, what exactly is heating class in aerobics?) We had the bright jewelry, the fish net gloves, and of course the side pony that are all very classic 80s. With no real planning we couldn't go all out. But next time, beware. It is going to be a fantabulous 80s night!!!

Notice the black ballet slippers. Next time, I promise hot pink sparkle shoes in action!! Just you wait.

Savage Chickens

2007-04-27T08:53:00.000-07:00

I have never loved the internet more than I do now. I don't like watching TV anymore as there never seems to be anything on. CNN replays the same stories over and over, there is only so much family value I can get from the Hallmark channel, MTV is just not my style of music, and I cant stand to watch the Orange County Chopper guys argue anymore.

So, what do I do? Well, I read a lot, watch movies, and waste most of my time on the internet. I am not a huge internet freak like some of my nearest and dearest friends here, but I do have my favorite sites I like to visit daily. And most recently I discovered the "Savage Chickens." (Click on the link to go to the blog.) It is a short comic blog about chickens done on post-it-notes. It's awesome.

(*Note: I originally found them when doing a random 80's search. And this is the comic that came up. I instantly fell in love!)

The Forbidden Picture...

2007-04-25T12:59:00.000-07:00

While wandering the streets of Krakow I happened upon the United States Consulate. And feeling rather patriotic at the time, I decided to take a picture of the flag hanging outside. I took the photo and continued walking. I looked in the window from across the street to notice a sign saying no photographs. Thinking to myself, "Oh well, no one saw," I went on my way. Suddenly I was approached and stopped by a big meaty man in a police uniform. He informed me photos were prohibited and made me delete the picture from my camera. He even watched to make sure I had.

So, how do I still have a picture of the consulate? Little did he know I snapped two photos!

But tell me, what is the big deal with taking a picture of the building? What harm can a little photo do? Seriously?

A Canadian, a Kiwi, a Texan, and more...

2007-04-24T13:05:00.000-07:00

These are just some of the friends I met along the way. In all my travels over spring break, I managed to meet loads of new people. People who I shared a few laughs and a couple of good beers with. Some even became travel buddies during my trip. And some I met up later with in different cities.

City One: My new friends in Budapest. Out on the town enjoying a few drinks wrapped up in some cozy blankets. Really, this is their ploy to get you to sit at their restaurant. "We don't have heaters to keep you warm, but these soft blankets are much more cozy and romantic. " Pictured here are a few Americans, a Kiwi, and a Canadian.

City three: Kitsch, the coolest nigh club in town. On the third floor of an old warehouse building in the center of Krakow, Monica (the Canadian) whom I traveled with to Bratislava and Krakow, Slavek (the hostel owner), and I got our groove on to some good old American music. Quite fun actually.

City Four: It's always nice running into a friendly face, and that is exactly what happened. I met back up with my friend Kiwi friend Amanda, whom I originally met in Budapest. From Budapest to Prague, we had a little fun with some Aussie boys. Who knew they were so crazy?

And finally, Easter: While waiting for my train in Poland, I met a couple girls traveling around on their spring break from semester abroad. We chatted but went on our ways. Randomly enough, I ran into Louise on the streets of Prague and we made plans to meet up for Easter. We got some Mexican food and a few beers. I couldn't have asked for a more perfect Easter when traveling alone.

Now you have it all. Lots of travels, stories, pictures, and friends. It was a great kind of "last hurrah" before I finish up my service. A much needed hurrah!

Can tourists ruin a city??

2007-04-22T12:55:00.000-07:00

The answer my friends is...YES!

Prague, Czech Republic. This city is so hyped up right now being called the Paris of eastern Europe. And maybe it is, but for me, I found it to be too overrun with people making it hard to truly enjoy the city and all it has to offer. And really, it is quite an interesting and extensive city.

The cityscape is stunning. Simple as that. It has a medieval center that proves to be an evocative maze of cobble stoned streets that lead to ancient courtyards, dark passages and many, many churches. All this, and an 1100-year-old castle. But sometimes, just sometimes, it is hard to appreciate all this when you can hardly manage to walk down the street. Most times I felt like I was cattle being herded down the street. There were just so many people everywhere.

During my visit, in order to get off the main path, I headed to the Communism museum ironically situated next to a McDonalds. Here I learned that Jan Palach who burned himself in protest of the soviet-led invasion. The funeral of Palach turned into a major protest against the occupation, and his action was followed by two more people. Although these suicides didn't have much of an impact on the actual political situation at the time.

Later, I wrapped my head around the very strange Kafka museum. The peeing statue above is one of a pair outside the museum. Kafka is one of the best known Czech writers of all time that has become amongst the most influential writers of western literature. Although I have not read any of Kafka's works it is said that he has come to embody the blend of absurd, surreal, and mundane which gave rise to the term "kafkaesque."

And finally, the quietest place I found in Prague was the Lenin Wall. Seriously, there was not one other person roaming around in this area. It is not really mentioned in the guidebooks and it is definitely off the beaten track, but here I was. In the old Communist days, this was the outlet for the locals to express their views by spray painting their feelings and messages here. It was dominated by old Beatles lyrics, so hence the name. Today, you can see many faces of Lenin hidden beneath the other graffiti scribbles.

Well, thats about all for now. Hope you enjoyed Spring Break 2007: Eastern European Extravaganza. I know I did!!!

Krakow....my new favorite city!

2007-04-21T12:45:00.000-07:00

Krakow, Poland. A very understated city in all the guidebooks and I hope it stays that way. This had to be my favorite city on my route by far. It is an amazingly gorgeous city alive with so much character and soul. As one of the oldest cities in Poland, it has maintained its medieval look. And for an interesting fun fact, in 1945 a sudden encircling maneuver by the Soviets forced the Germans to evacuate the city, therefore Krakow was saved from destruction.

After only ever hearing great things about Krakow, I can now say I see why. It is a city that captures so much history. The Old Town harbors towering Gothic churches and the great Wawel Castle. The Jewish quarter, Kazimirez, recounts a more tragic story. This later became the home to Jews fleeing persecution from all corners of Europe. During WWII there were about 65,000 Jews in Krakow, today there are only around 100. Several of the sites in and around Krakow have, at one point in time, been put on Unesco's World Heritage list.

On the outskirts of Krakow there are also a few sites of interest. First, the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Remarkably, the entire mine of long hallways and chambers is all hewn out by hand from solid salt. Not to mention every single element , from chandeliers to altarpieces to statues is made of salt. The picture shown is the largest chapel that took more than 30 years to build, and is located 135 meters below the surface, where even the floor is one solid slab of salt carved to look like tiles.

And the second site of interest, although meant only for the strong and mature, is Auschwitz. As most of you reading this know, it was the scene of the most extensive experiment in genocide in the history of humankind. The concentration camp was established in 1940, originally intended to hold Polish political prisoners, but later developed into the largest center for the extermination of Jews. Auschwitz is made up of 3 camps total, Auschwitz itself, Birkenau, the larger camp where most of the exterminations took place, and also Monowitz. The death camps eliminated 1.5 to 2 million people of 27 nationalities -- about 90% of whom were Jews.

After a busy few days in Krakow it was time to get back on the road. Although this time I was a bit more nervous about getting there. I had to take a night train to Prague. And with all that I kept hearing, it was not sitting well with me. Everyone kept telling me, even the guidebooks, not to take Polish night trains, especially alone. People on trains will gas you in the night, and the attendants are in on it. Scary. Well, I said heck with it! Prague here I come!!! I went ahead took the risk and was put in a cabin with a harmless old lady who didn't speak a lick of English. I came out alive, passport and money intact.

Boring Bratislava

2007-04-20T12:37:00.000-07:00

Bratislava is another city I have previously visited during a different spring break trip about 5 years ago. Not too much has changed since then. I only spent a day there then. And I only spent a day here now. It is a beautifully quaint city with its own version on eastern European goulash, but as far as the sites go...it's not all that interesting. But after busy Budapest, I was up for a more relaxing time.

I visited a castle, the massive rectangular building with four corner towers stands on a quite isolated rocky hill directly above the Danube river in the middle of Bratislava. It is probably the most outstanding feature of the city, but to be honest, I just wasn't that impressed. Most of it looks to be fully restored, but going in is out of the question.

Every time I travel, I always manage to meet a new friend. A new statue boyfriend that is. And here is yet one more. And apparently Bratislava is known for its quirky street statues around town. This guy, my new friend, is Napoleon's army soldier. This soldier is supposed to reminds visitors of Napoleon himself wearing a typical hat. Napoleon I visited Bratislava in 1805, then in 1809 Napoleon's army blew up the Devin Castle near Bratislava.

And the adventure continues. Poland here I come!

Spring Break 2007!!

2007-04-19T12:06:00.000-07:00

Am I too old to be saying "spring break"?? I mean, I am not in college anymore. Oh well. Here is to one last spring break. SPRING BREAK 2007: Eastern Europe Extravaganza!!

For 10 days I took my first solo trip. Traveling is nothing new to me. I have traveled all over the states, Mexico and Europe. But I had never traveled alone, alone. Several people had told me it is quite an experience to travel solo. You meet lots of new people, you get to be the boss of your trip, and you ultimately learn a lot about yourself. It gives you ample to time to reflect on, well, everything. And that is exactly what I did.

First stop: Budapest, Hungary. After taking a short relaxed flight, where I managed to fall asleep before takeoff (Why do I do that on every flight and bus ride? Is there something in the air?) I arrived in Budapest, hopped on the city bus, took the metro, then the tram and finally made it to my hostel. There, I was greeted by the friendly faces of new friends.

For the next three days I ventured around Budapest, a city I had visited once before.The Danube River flows majestically through the center of the city, splitting the city into the Buda and Pest. Buda is home to some of the older landmarks in the city, including the Buda Castle, the Fisherman's Bastion, and Gellert Hill where some of the oldest thermal baths lie. While the Pest side appears to be more modern, with the market hall, opera house and the main shopping street for tourists.

I even managed to get out to somewhere new. I went to Statue Park, a relatively new sight for Budapest that houses the statues of Lenin, Marx and memorials to The Soviet Soldier and the Communist Martyrs. And much more besides. After the change of political system the statues were removed from Budapest's streets to the museum. This is the world's only such collection from the period of communist cultural politics. With a tour guide explaining the significance of each statue and giving a bit of history into communism in Hungary, it was really quite interesting. Especially when thinking about all the stories I have heard Bulgarians tell about their experiences during the communist era.

Next stop....Bratislava, Slovakia!!!

Close of Service Conference

2007-04-18T11:00:00.000-07:00

As I mentioned before, I recently attended my last Peace Corps conference. The much anticipated event was filled with all the emotions that come with finishing service, and leaving Bulgaria and the 2 very memorable years spent here. Many thoughts raced through my head as I looked around the room and saw my group, simply strangers 2 years ago, but now my family. We are the 17th group to serve here in Bulgaria and over the years we have shared lots of laughs, tears, new and old stories, good times, and if you were lucky, care packages full of American goodies.

(Me, myself, and my training group.)

On the first day, the remaining 35 or so Peace Corps Volunteers broke up into our original training groups. For most this was no problem. But for me, it was a rather sad time. I was alone. I was the lone man standing after two years (my wing man Lincoln was not able to be there to stand by my side, although he will finish his service.) My fallen men included: Jim during training and who I have not heard from since, Liz after a year in BFE and no vegetables, she is now working at her dream job, and Jon after some health issues, who is now getting married to a fellow PCV. Most training groups had lost one or two members, and there were even a few where the entire group was able to stick it out. Bravo to them.

(The group photo. Probably the worst arrangement ever, but eh.)

But now it was all coming to an end. All I could think was.... "Oh my gosh! I cant believe two years has come and gone! What am I going to do now?"

So, what am I going to do now? Well, I am going to finish my last 3 months of service with as much enthusiasm and energy as when I came. I am going to thoroughly enjoy the spring and all the good things that come with that. I am going to look back on my service with no regrets. I am going to remember all the good and bad times. I am going to cherish all my new friendships, both PCVs and Bulgarians. I am going to stick around the region until I see all that I can and want to see. I am going to say all my proper goodbyes. And finally, I am going to leave this country a stronger, more mature person who has learned so much about life, people, and myself.

Here is to you Bulgaria and to Peace Corps!

Is it time to go??

2007-04-16T13:57:00.000-07:00

After any long vacation it is always hard to get back on track. You have to re-settle yourself, catch up on things and just plain relax. The old saying goes, you need a vacation from your vacation.

Well, things certainly did not change this time around. I had been gone for 2 weeks and upon my return I was exhausted. My last day of travel was even a bit extreme. I had to take a night train from Prague to Budapest, then a flight from Budapest to Sofia, and finally a 3 hour bus back to Stara Zagora with no time in between. Needless to say, I was tired. And to top it all off, I had to go to class the next morning and teach for 6 hours. "Ugh" was all I could think. But something happened that day on my walk to school. Something that gave me a new realization.

As I was walking to school, I went to cross the street. I looked to see a car driving hurriedly down the road. I even had to step back a bit so it wouldn't run over my feet. After the car passed, I continued my usual route to school. But then I thought... "Man, if that car had run over my feet, I wouldn't have to go to school today!"

Whoa. What kind of person hopes her feet get run over so she can miss work?? I think that is my cue to head home soon. And fortunately enough I guess, I am headed home in just about 4 months. But don't get me wrong, life here is good. It is great even! Several days have passed since that incident, and things are back to normal. I am enjoying life and keeping busy as always. Not to mention the weather is amazing and all the outdoor cafes are back! This is the best time to be in Bulgaria.

So, don't worry guys, I am not hoping for any more close run ins with passing cars (especially not in my emerald slippers)!

Updates coming....

2007-04-11T10:52:00.000-07:00

I am back! And my two week hiatus is over :(

I have been busying myself with two things. First, my close of service conference with Peace Corps. An important time to figure out all the logistics with leaving and a time to show people how much you really love to sing off key, especially the Bangles', "Manic Monday"!!!!!!!!

And second, traipsing the world.. well, more like eastern Europe. But traipsing nonetheless. My traipsing took me to Budapest, Bratislava, Krakow, Prague and back again. And it is good to be home.

With all my long travels, getting settled back in, and some quality cuddle time with the cat, I will leave you now with this oh-so-short blog and promise to fill you all in soon....

(*Note: Jumping photos rock my socks!!! It can't get any better than this, can it!)

Off to COS and more travels...

2007-03-26T19:31:00.000-07:00

Peace Corps is full of many acronyms and COS is just one more. This time it means Close of Service. It is my group's last official conference where we essentially talk about how to live in America again.

Sound funny? Well, I think it will actually be more useful than it sounds. I hope so anyways. It is a 3 day conference filled with sessions. Lots and lots of sessions. We will learn about all the logistics that come with leaving service. Things like our readjustment allowance, health insurance, non competitive status when applying for work within the government, possible fellowship opportunities, and much more. The conference is followed by an official dinner where speeches are given and awards received. As 36 of us, give or take a few (we came to BG with 50), bring closure to our 2 year service at this conference, I will look around the room and probably never see some of the faces before me, and some I know I will be friends with forever. It is a strange feeling. Leaving such a influential time of your life behind. Moving on to new adventures.

But not to fret, there are no teary eyes here because I have so much to look forward to in the coming days, weeks, and months. Directly after the COS conference I am headed on my first solo trip through Hungary, Slovakia, the Czech Republic and maybe even Poland if I can hack it. I am rather excited to travel by myself. Never having done it before, I am sure it will be quite interesting, with lots of time for reflection. But the best part of flying solo is that I don't have to answer to anyone. I am my own boss. So, wish me luck. And I will write upon my return in a couple of weeks.

(*Note: July 2005...the picture is at my swearing with my training group, the PC director, and our language trainer. We started with 5 and are down to two. Although for COS, my wing man Lincoln will not be around as he is in the states for a few weeks. It's just gonna be me.)

Spring is for new beginnings.

2007-03-25T11:23:00.000-07:00

As the sun shines brighter and the days become longer, I realize that spring really is for new beginnings.

Over the past 2 years I have come to call Bulgaria my home. I have come to accept all the "strange" ways of life here. (I only put strange in quotes because actually it is all quite normal. Normal for Bulgarians. And normal for me who calls this place her second home.)

I no longer feel the need to wait in line as Bulgarians tend to prefer the mob option. I no longer throw beat up clothes in the trash, but rather leave things worth recycling right next to the dumpster in a neat little bag for someone to pick up and use. I don't mind the sidewalks seeping of mud after it rains, now I just walk on the street like everyone else. I can now sit with my colleagues drinking the same tea or coffee for hours. I have even started believing some of their strange superstitions, like if you leave your purse on the floor all your money will walk away. I can walk into a small grocery store and I no longer have to point for what I want but rather say what I want with my perfect grocery store vocabulary. I have embraced the opposite head nod, yes for no, and no for yes. I could go on for hours I am sure, but I will stop here. Let me just say, I know longer feel awkward in this culture but rather I embrace it, I love it.

But as my Peace Corps service is coming to an end, I have to start looking ahead. I have to start seriously thinking about what I am going to do with my life when I return. I have to take this time, these last few months in Bulgaria and do some serious reflection and thinking on my goals, my service and life in general. This is a time for me. This is a time for new beginnings. I still have a few things I want to do before I leave, a few more places I want to explore. The next few months will be a challenge without a doubt. Having to say goodbye to not only PCVs, but colleagues, friends and the country itself. A life I have come to enjoy and love, even with all its oddities. Thats what makes it interesting.

So here is to new beginnings and new paths to walk. Onwards and upwards, right? Right!

(*Please note: Spring is in the air! Woooo hoooooo!!!)

Hurricane Scare

2007-03-22T08:26:00.000-07:00

The first day of spring of in Bulgaria (yesterday, March 21st) was marked by heavy rains, stormy weather and a hurricane advisory.

Meteorologists warned yesterday that hurricane winds were expected to whirl over Bulgaria's territory. The storm started from the southwest where they were hit first, followed by the northwest of the country and the higher mountain areas. Even the major ports at Bourgas, Varna and Ruse were closed. The wind speed was around 45 miles per hour. And according to a fellow PCV, that puts the wind at a force equivalent to a rather weak tropical storm. But, it is only expected to grow. Until it reaches 74 miles an hour (nearly double it's current strength), it won't be a hurricane force.

Although the peak of the strong wind is said to be today and Thursday, it is nothing but blue skies and sunshine here in Stara Zagora. I was bumming about the weather yesterday, but I think we might just be back on track here in the valley region. Who knows what is going on in the rest of Bulgaria? But as long as I have sunshine, I am a happy girl.

In any case, we were advised to avoid open places and stay away from old abandoned buildings and areas with lots of debris lying around.

(Note: The picture is a stack of hay in a small village. Is has nothing to do with the current post.)

Is your blog censored or not??

2007-03-20T08:57:00.000-07:00

We all know what censorship is. And we all know what internet censorship is, right? It's the control of publishing or accessing information on the internet. So, now that that is established, there are places all over the world that have some level of internet censorship, even the United States. If you thought we had freedom of speech, think again.

As Peace Corps volunteers and "ambassadors" of the United States we are definitely censored to an extent. We are continually told and advised from writing about things that could damage the image of the US Government, the Peace Corps and the volunteers themselves. We should always remember to be culturally sensitive, and avoid any ill-mannered comments about the country we are serving and to also avoid any political controversy. The Peace Corps is especially sensitive as to avoid any potentially damaging or embarrassing statements that could make its way to the public media and give us a bad image.

I get that. I completely understand the importance of this "censorship" and for me, its not hard to abide by. Yes, at times Bulgaria can seem to be a strange, strange place, but I love it here and the odd ways of life. I love the idiosyncrasies that are Bulgaria, that make Bulgaria. I would like to think that anything I write is not ill-mannered but merely my observations. I would also like to think that what I have to say about Bulgaria and my service here would not be taken in the wrong way, but rather seen as the truth, the reality we live in here. Recently, I have even become bold enough to send my blog link to my colleagues. I was a little nervous that they might be offended, but on the contrary. They found it to be light, sometimes witty and quite insightful. They told me it is an interesting read of Bulgaria from an outside perspective, from a fresh perspective. Read it as you will, but please take it with an open mind. (Let's just hope Peace Corps doesn't come down hard on my blog like they have with other volunteers. Because what would be the fun in blogging anymore?)

With all that being said, I now ask you this. Have you ever heard of the "Great Firewall of China"? Well, in China, the government continually embraces censorship methods in the media, including the internet. Although China is not the only place where you can find internet censorship. Some of the most extreme cases of internet censorship also includes Vietnam, Iran, Uzbekistan, Tunisia, Turkey, Syria, Myanmar, Cuba, and North Korea among others.

A non profit organization has creatively established their own website to test websites all over the world and see if it's been blocked by the Chinese government agency in charge of the internet cleanup. Here is the link so you can test your own blog or site or whatever...

Great Firewall of China

I tested my blog and it turns out that...it's AVAILABLE!!! Well, supposedly anyways. Is yours??

(Please Note Map Above: Orange represents the countries in which PC currently works in, while purple shows the countries in which PC is currently inactive.)

European Social Reality

2007-03-19T17:42:00.000-07:00

Are you sitting at work trying to keep your swivel chair nice and warm? Are you doing the sleepy eyed head bob from trying to stay awake after a big lunch outing with the office? Are you in dire need of some good reading to keep you going through to the end of the day? Well, I have just the thing for you. A new(ish) report released in February from the European Commission! Its bold, its interesting. Its a report that will keep you going for hours.

The nearly 200 page report is full of colorful bar charts, pie graphs, and loads of statistics. It was released in order to better understand the social realities of European Union citizens including Bulgaria. The survey covers opinions and feelings about a vast array of the dimensions of social, economical, political and everyday life of the European citizens. Seriously, it is quite intriguing. You wont want to miss this hot read.

European Social Reality Report

It's been all over the news in the past weeks. And it's ever more shocking to see where Bulgaria falls when asked questions about their happiness, work, and overall well being. Maybe not so surprisingly, Bulgaria ranks pretty low on most questions. They seem to be the most unhappy, most pessimistic people in the EU. I guess there is no where for them to go but up. And up I hope they go. I find Bulgaria to be a wonderful place to live. If only Bulgarians felt the same way.

The Fun Starts Here...

2007-03-18T17:28:00.000-07:00

Just another typical weekend. A weekend with good friends and good times. And let me tell you, the fun starts here... Plovdiv, Bulgaria.

My friend Lucia invited a gang of us over to Plovdiv to celebrate Chinese New Years. Why? Because Lucia is, well, Chinese!! Are you thinking to yourself that Chinese New Years was last month. Well, correct-omundo you are! Why are we celebrating it a month later? Well, why not, I say. It was actually just a better time for all of us to get together. And what a better weekend than St. Patrick's Day. A little Chinese flavor mixed with the Irish traditions. Ah, Bulgaria. You gotta love it!

After lots of catching up and relaxing, the cooking began. (That's Lucia...cooking away for the Chinese feast. And man, was it mm, mmm good.) After filling our bellies with all the flavorful food and drinks, we headed out for a night on the town. Our plan: to paint the town red! And thats just what we did.

It was a great weekend with fabulous friends. The type of weekend I will always look forward to. I cant wait to see them all again in a couple of weeks at our close of service conference for Peace Corps.

Would you like to try some head???

2007-03-14T15:47:00.000-07:00

Okay, back to the hidja story....

As I said before a hidja is a mountain chalet that is very cabin like where most hikers seek refuge after a long day out. We opted to stay in Hidja Uzana as our place of refuge. Thinking we were in for a quiet night, we couldn't have been more wrong.

The hidja was actually packed with a group of young youths, mostly boys with their adult leaders. Also in attendance were none other than my students. I just cant seem to ever escape them. Who would have thought that I would randomly run into 4 of my students on the top of the mountain in a run down mountain chalet. Not me, that is for sure.

Kathy, Melody and I decided it best to hang with the adults and owners of the place. We enjoyed lots of strong rakia, sweet vodka, tasy and yet at the same time very interesting food, and shared some good conversation. When I say interesting food, I mean disgusting. Halfway through the evening, the owner comes in and presents us with a large plate of something. He said it was meat. But from the looks of it, it didnt look like anything you would want to eat. He cut up the meat and gave us some to try telling us it was head and stomach. Gross! I cant believe I just ate head meat. But head of what, you ask? Head of a cow. Oh yeah, here is the picture to prove it....

Gross, gross, gross. There wasn't even any meat left on the skull.

When it was time for bed, we headed upstairs to sleep. Finally it was time to hit our heads to the pillow and zonk out. Unfortunately, we were unable to sleep like babies through the night as the party of young boys downstairs played their obnoxious Bulgarian music at a decibil of 10 all night. It literally didnt stop until 8 in the morning. So much for a good nights rest.

Upon leaving the hidja the next morning, we were assaulted by the extreme drop in temperatures from the previous day. From the time it took us to walk from the hidja to the bus stop, there was frost in our hair and tears down our cheeks from the cold, cold weather.

The Stara Planina...

2007-03-13T12:33:00.000-07:00

One thing that I love about Bulgaria is the vast nature areas it has to offer. And living in Stara Zagora I always feel really lucky because not only do I have a huge park to explore but I am so close to the mountains.

Well, Bulgaria actually has several mountain ranges all over the country, so I am not the only lucky one. Here is a quick guide to Bulgaria's many mountain ranges. The Sredna Gora are considered the central highlands located where else but in central Bulgaria. The Rhodope Mountains are located in the southern most area of Bulgaria. The Rila Mountains are located in the northwestern part with the highest peak. The Pirin mountains are situated in the southwest boasting the second highest peak. And finally, we cant forget the Stara Planina, also known as the Old Mountains situated in the north. That was all too basic, but if you get out your BG map, you might have a better idea of what I am talking about.

Anyway, in one of my previous posts I mentioned my need for some fresh air. Well, it didn't stop with the Freedom Monument. Our goal was to reach the Uzana Hidja (chalet) tucked away in the Stara Planina Mountains.

The hike itself was absolutely gorgeous. We were in the thick of Bulgaria's ever so famous nature and were loving it. The trail was very well marked with red and yellow markers along the way. Never once did we feel like we lost the trail. Although there were markers for other trails, but we weren't exactly sure where those led to.
As we reached one of the summits we took a short break for water, snacks and pictures. Look how much fun we are having. Kathy digging for snacks and me just being silly. Because it was rather windy at the top, we didn't stay put for too long. Plus we wanted to take advantage of the daylight hours, as we got a late start.

Look at me....I am such a cute hiker with my hat on and my walking stick in hand.

After several hikes ups, and several hikes downs, a bit of snow and a bit of mud, and about 12 km later, the sky was getting darker and our legs were getting more and more tired. But we did it. We managed to reach Hidja Uzana. And what a place it was. Typically a hidja or a mountain chalet can house around 80 people with only the essentials, a warm place to sleep for the night. Without any real snow, we were expecting the hidja to be pretty quiet. But man were we wrong. The minute we walked in we knew it was going to be a long night. But how long, we would have never anticipated what we got. More on that...later.

As this post is becoming quite long, let me just say the hike was just what I needed. A perfect end to a blah kind of week.

Can I take your picture...??

2007-03-12T20:52:00.000-07:00

Why is it that people love taking pictures of or with the weird foreigner? This has happened to me a few times now. Once in San Francisco, I was asked to be in the picture with this family's little daughter (I wasn't the foreigner but the family was). Strange as I had never met them before. And now again in Bulgaria.

When I reached the top of the Freedom Monument I was casually walking around taking pictures...even self photos as you can see. Then, this random Bulgarian guy asked me something about taking a picture. I just assumed he wanted me to take a picture of him and his friend. But mistakenly, he wanted his friend to take a picture of me and him together. This was my confused expression when asked to be in this random picture where I kindly agreed. What else was I to do?

Uh, sure?

Anyways, I again thought this was rather strange as I had never met him before. I just don't get it. Why does he want a picture of me and him? We don't even know each other. What is he going to tell his friends when they ask who the girl is in the picture? I think the conversation would go something like this...

Friends: Are these your pics from the weekend? Who is this girl with you??
Him: Oh her? She was just this random American girl hiking around.
Friends: Oh, okay. (Like this is completely normal.)

How weird!!!
Anyways, here is the picture taken with the random Bulgarian dude. (Emily thought it would be funny if I had a copy of it too!)

Freedom!!!

2007-03-11T14:54:00.000-07:00

Lately I have been in kind of a slump and needed to get out and do something new. I felt the need for a breath of fresh air and that is exactly what I got. A few friends and I decided to go out into "the nature". Starting from Stara Zagora we decided to take a bus to the nearby town of Kazanluk. We putzed around for awhile and then from there we took another bus to Shipka Pass. To get us going Emily, Kathy, Melody and I hiked up the 1000 steps to the Freedom Monument.

What is the Freedom Monument exactly? Well, this is supposedly the ridge where the Turkish soldiers tried to cross the pass during the 1877-1878 war between the Turks and the Russians, with Bulgarian volunteers taking part. But the Turks were defeated. Today the monument is a national monument that symbolizes liberation and freedom of Bulgaria.

In theory there is an amazing view, but due to thick fog there was no long range visibility. I did this same hike last year with my family and could see for miles. And if you know what direction to look in you can see Veliko Turnovo to the north, and Kazanluk and the Valley of the Roses to the south.

After the hike up, we of course hiked back down where we enjoyed a regional favorite, "Bivolsko mylako", also known as Buffalo yogurt. The Shipka area is famous for the wonderfully thick and tasty yogurt produced locally from the milk of water buffalo. It is most commonly found in the mountain areas around Shipka village and the town of Gabrovo. Mmmm, mmm good.

From the Freedom Monument we were headed into the mountains....

An Eco-Conscious Bulgaria??

2007-03-09T22:54:00.000-08:00

Not so long ago I was taking a weekend stroll around town and spotted something rather odd. It wasn't odd because I had never seen such a thing, because I had. But it was odd because I had never seen such a thing in Bulgaria. I thought to myself, could it be true? Could Bulgaria finally be adopting such habits that many countries have been practicing for years on end? Could they finally be eliminating some of their waste and turning it into something else?

What I saw were large recycling containers!! Yellow, Green and Blue!!!

Apparently there is a new trend in Bulgaria to promote an Eco-friendly Bulgaria. A recycling program has now begun!

An obvious and important aspect of ecotourism is the preservation of the environment and natural resources. Bulgaria’s emerging ecotourism industry therefore needs to be coupled with increasing environmental preservation efforts.

Bulgaria, and Sofia in particular, is not known for its efficient waste management. Recent fighting over the location of a new waste treatment center has left Sofia without effective means of dealing with its waste.

In an attempt to decrease the consumption of limited natural resources, several environmental groups have emerged to promote Bulgarian recycling. Both private citizens and large companies are targeted by recycling campaigns, in hopes of encouraging a “recycling culture” in Bulgaria.

Recycling programmes in Sofia have not existed long enough to collect any accurate data on the number of citizens taking the initiative to recycle. EcoPack plans to promote its recycling programs with public awareness campaigns in the coming year.

This is all done in hopes of encouraging a “recycling culture” in Bulgaria. Lets just hope it works and Bulgarians start thinking GREEN.

International Womens Day!!!

2007-03-08T06:40:00.000-08:00

March 8th. This is the day women all over the world unite together in their fight for independence, peace, economic, political and social equality...and it is also celebrated right here in Bulgaria. Although really, I don't know how much equality women here actually receive. From my point of view women are still a step below men in almost all aspects of life. Cooking and cleaning is still considered woman's work, and many women are not given all the same opportunities as men and are paid much less in the work force.

But here in Bulgaria, like all the other holidays (lots since last Thursday), Woman's day is celebrated in a colorful way. With lots and LOTS of flowers. Since early this morning as I casually walked around town I saw almost every woman at one point carrying a red carnation, a yellow daisy, or some other bouquet of flowers.

I like the idea of a day to celebrate women (not just moms, but all women). And since I am a woman, I of course will gladly take my flowers and carry a proud smile. But at the same time it is hard when you know there are women in the world who are denied education and choices, who are denied life's simple liberties and freedoms so many of us take for granted, who live in abject poverty. For me right now there is nothing I can do but stand with my fellow women..and stand tall. It makes me realize how lucky I am to live in a world (the U.S. of A.) where I have so many endless opportunities and freedom. Today, I am proud to be a woman!

Wow, that was a lot more she-power than I expected. Happy Woman's Day!!!

(Note: *And if you didnt know, apparently it IS celebrated in the states but they turned it into Women's Month. Women's day here is just like our Mother's Day.)

Ode to Sugar Cereals....and My Mom!

2007-03-07T15:31:00.000-08:00

Sugar cereal how I love to eat you in the morning.

I love to consume you in the afternoon.
Oh how I love sugar cereals in the evening.
Nothing pleases me more than sugar cereals..

Well, that was a pretty weak attempt at my ode. But seriously. I really love sugar cereals. Not all, but a select two to be exact. Lucky Charms and Fruity Pebbles. And what my mom has to do with any of this? Well, recently she sent me a package filled with both! I am now able to eat both Lucky Charms and Fruity Pebbles at any time of day. I usually have cornflakes with a banana because anything else is just too expensive on my Peace Corps budget. But now, I am living in the lap of luxury with my sugar cereals.

Okay, seriously, what is wrong with me. I know they aren't the most nutritious breakfast you can have, but man do I love the them. And it really only seems to be a more recent fixation. Maybe it is the constant lack of variety that Bulgarian grocer shops and cuisines have to offer. Maybe it is the ability to feel like a kid by saving all the marshmallows for my last spoonful. Whatever the case may be, I am more than grateful to my mom who has such a big heart and surprised me with 2 boxes of yummy and delicious cereals. Thanks mom! (And thanks to a few others who have sent a few boxes my way in the past.)

Mmm...all this talk of cereal. I think I will go have a bowl now.

Odd Coincidence...

2007-03-06T12:21:00.000-08:00

I don't usually post more than one blog entry a day but today I have to make an exception.

As I walked into the teacher's room at school today the large wooden table was covered with all kinds of foods and drinks. I thought to myself, whose birthday is it today? As is customary in the Bulgarian tradition, the birthday boy or girl is more or less obligated to treat their friends and colleagues to a small feast of drinks, snacks, and sweets. This is mere commonplace in my school where there are over 100 teachers. So it feels like every week someone is having a birthday. Also those being treated must then wish the person long life, good health and lots of riches (or a version of that anyway.)

I like this concept very much. It relieves the pressure and anxiety that are birthdays in the states. Instead of wondering if your best friend is going to throw you a party or even remember that it is your birthday, here in Bulgaria you just come right out and say it. "Yes, its my birthday. And now enjoy a tasty bonbon."

So, whose birthday was it today?? Well, it was one of my best colleague friends Mima, the same colleague I traveled to Holland with. And what did Mima serve at her small birthday feast in the school?? None other than PEANUTS!!! (And other treats of course.) I just found this rather ironic and I guess coincidental when just this morning I posted about the dangerous peanuts in Bulgaria. Instead of going for the salty peanuts, I went with the homemade sweet. I think that was the safer bet. But I couldn't help but cringe as people took handfuls of the possibly toxic peanuts. I just didn't have the heart to say anything. No need to spoil a good day. What can you do?

Here's to you Mima. Happy Birthday!!!

(Note: Picture is of the birthday girl herself, Mima!)

Dangerous Peanuts...

2007-03-06T07:12:00.000-08:00

We all heard about the Peter Pan Peanut Butter that was found to be contaminated. But who knew eating a harmless salty snack could actually kill you?

According to recent news the peanuts in Bulgaria are dangerous and we have been advised not to eat them. About 70 tons of peanuts that have been imported in Bulgaria from Gambia in January 2007 are said to be toxic. These contain alpha-toxins that are 60 times more than the normal limits, a quantity which is considered to be cancerogenic. The whole quantity imported is a subject of official government investigation and testing in the state laboratories. However, 40 tons of the above mentioned peanuts are missing as of a week ago and have not been found so far.

The official investigation was said to be completed by March 5th (yesterday). But there seems to be no end in sight as new sources are coming forward and saying that this was not the first time that poisonous peanuts were shipped into Bulgaria. Supposedly they have been imported and sold in Bulgaria for seven years already.

The low price - between $50 to $100 per ton - is the reason for Bulgarian traders to assist the illegal import of poisonous peanuts. The average price tag of fresh peanuts ranges from $200 to $300 per ton.

If all this is true, I just cant believe this has been going on for so long and just now coming out. I don't know about you, but I am definitely going to avoid eating peanuts in this country.

Stara Zagora Kukeri...

2007-03-05T10:41:00.000-08:00

Oh yes, another spring tradition. Last year I wrote "a little bit of Halloween, a little bit of the Castro, and a little bit of Star Wars." And this year it hasn't really changed. This is the scene for most Kukeri festivals in the small villages and even some big cities of Bulgaria.

Over the weekend, I attended our very own Kukeri here in Stara Zagora. I woke early and headed down to the center of town following the sound of the loud clanging bells and was greeted by character faces that you only imagine in folk tales.

It is that time of year with the winter fading away and spring making its bounds. The Kukeri is an important masked ritual of dance in the last days of the winter, just before nature comes back to life. The participants are dressed in sheepskin garments and wearing scary masks and copper bells on their belts. Transdressers, scary doctors, men on "horses" and Chewbacha look alikes are also present. These men dance and sing songs and chants, with the intention to scare away the evil spirits or ghosts which people believed came back to the living ones in winter.

The ritual is a mixture between Christian and pagan traditions and symbols. Men wear decorated wooden masks of animals (sometimes double-faced) and bells on their belts. Girls even join in the fun in the national costume of Bulgaria and start up the horo (the national dance). According to the tradition, this festival, like many other traditions in Bulgaria, will provide a good harvest, health and happiness in the village during the whole year.

Kukeri is a an amusing ritual with men in tights or big fur masks dancing wildly in the center of town. It is a rather authentic and unique Bulgarian tradition. One of the many traditions I will miss when back in the states.

Spring is here!!!

2007-03-04T13:46:00.000-08:00

Well technically, the first day of spring is not until the 21st of March. But with all the sunshine, good weather and blossoming trees it mine as well be spring already.

I know I recently posted a blog about the cold weather and how winter has finally arrived. But to be honest, I think that the poor weather only lasted a period of 3 days. Nothing to complain about. And really, I don't even know if winter ever truly arrived. It's been the warmest winter ever recorded in the country with temperatures reaching the 60s in the normally freezing winter months. That is just unheard of here in Bulgaria for this time of year.

And you know what? I like it! I like waking up to a sunny day and going to bed with warm winds. I like not having to put on 6 layers before I go out (I can stick to my usual 3). I like the feeling of the warm sun on my face. To make it plain and simple, I like the early arrival of Spring.

And before I forget, while we are on the topic of spring, March 1st was Baba Marta Day, also known as Grandmother March. This is my favorite Bulgarian holiday which marks the end of winter and the start of spring. The tradition is associated with optimism and good health, good luck, fertility and well-being.

And in celebration of Baba Marta, Bulgarians give and receive a martinitsa, a red and white bracelet or tassel, to wear on their wrist or on the lapel of their coat. According to tradition, when you see the first stork or swallow of the year or a blossoming tree, you are supposed to tie your martinitsa to the branch of a tree or bury it under a rock and you will have good health for the rest of the year.

I personally love this holiday for many reasons. One being that it is the start of spring. Two, it brings people together and unites them. Everyone joins in the celebrations. Old men and little girls, Bulgarians and Roma, and even the good old foreigners all wear martinitsas. I love looking around a noticing that everyone has that red and white bracelet or tassel on.

Happy Grandma March!

(*Note: The picture shows a a usual array of different martinitsas given during the holiday.)

March 3rd: Liberation Day

2007-03-03T19:35:00.000-08:00

Today is a big day in Bulgaria. It is one of many national holidays, but maybe one of the most important. Today marks the the 129th anniversary since Bulgaria's liberation from five centuries of Ottoman dominance.

Traditional ceremonies are held in all Bulgarian cities to boast victorious battles for Russian and Bulgarian soldiers in the 1877-1878 liberation war. On March 3, 1878, the Peace Treaty of San Stefano (a tiny town near Istanbul) between Russia and the Ottoman Empire was signed which brought Bulgaria back to the political map.

The first time March 3 was marked occurred in 1880, in honor of Enthronement of Russian Emperor Alexander the Second. Since 1888 March 3 has become Bulgaria's Day of Liberation and it was not pronounced a National Holiday one hundred years later until 1978.

(*Note: Photo one is of the Bulgarian President Georgi Parvanov attending a ceremony in celebration of the holiday.)
___

On a side note, I was in Sofia today walking around with a friend and we happened upon one of the many celebrations going on in the country. With dozens of police lined up on the streets and earing loud music from afar, we decided to see what the fuss was when we realized it was a rock concert. The concert happened to be on the steps of the Alexander Nevski Church (built as an expression of gratitude for the 200,000 Russian heroes who sacrificed their life in the Russo-Turkish Liberation War).

What I find most strange is that the concert was literally on the steps of the church and led by Ataka, also known as the Bulgarian Nationalist Political Party. Not only should I mention that this was a concert, but it was more of a political rally by this extreme rightest group who many consider to be a racist, xenophobic, neo-nazi party. This was a place I didn't want to be at the time, and shouldn't. As we were walking away from the area, a large parade (I am talking hundreds) of Ataka supporters were making their way to the music.

Is it just me or does it seem odd to have such a gathering on the steps of a church, no matter what church?

Well, as they say in Bulgarian, Chestita Praznitsi (Happy Holidays).

(*Note: Picture two is of the Bulgaria's Nationalists: Slogan being "Down with Govt in Cahoots with Turks, Mafia!")

I heart Holland...

2007-02-24T09:16:00.000-08:00

And they heart their bikes....

Things Learned from Mission Holland:

1.) The Dutch have different eating habits. They eat chocolate sprinkles on their buttered toast in the morning. The chocolate sprinkles are called "HAGLESLAG." Not only is it a bit enjoyable to eat, but it is quite fun to say. "Hey honey, can you pass the Hagleslag?" Also, they like their French fries with mayonnaise instead of ketchup. There is no way I am adopting the mayo on fries. That is a heart attack waiting to happen. But I could definitely get accustomed to the sprinkles. Sounds strange, but you have to try it at least once. So next time you are buttering your toast in the morning, look in the cupboard for some chocolate sprinkles. You may just find you like it too.

2.) It is a biking culture in Holland. Aside from their bad diets, the Dutch are actually quite active people. They bike everywhere. And I mean everywhere. Kids bike into school from the villages anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes every morning. I don’t know why I only said kids, because it is everyone. Kids not only bike everywhere, but EVERYONE bikes everywhere. Teachers, doctors, shop owners, dads, moms. They really all bike. I think it is so they can say “way back when I was growing up I used to bike to school in the snow, uphill.” (I know your parents tried to pull that one on you.) And you thought there was bad traffic in the morning getting over the bay bridge. Imagine bike traffic in the small city. Quite a site at 8 in the morning.

3.) Holland is known for Van Gogh, wind mills, tulips and wooden shoes. Unfortunately due to the timing of our trip tulips were not in season. We did however happen by the flower market in Amsterdam where they sell hundreds of types of flowers, and of course, the tulip bulbs safe for crossing borders.

4.) And finally, the most important thing I learned is....drum roll please. The name of the country is the Netherlands, though it is commonly referred to as Holland. (As Max pointed out to me, Holland is a province, of which Amsterdam is the capital, though because of its historic importance and dominance of the rest of the country, Holland has become an unofficial name.) Good to know, huh?

Now, I am sure I learned a lot more than that, but those are the interesting ones. And I have to keep it interesting. Enjoy.

More on Holland...

2007-02-21T09:59:00.000-08:00

I AMsterdam...

In my previous blog I mentioned Amsterdam. Yes, Amsterdam. The students and teachers went on a day excursion to the big city. It is a bustling city with trams whizzing past, bikers ringing their bells telling you to get out of the lane, and boats merrily going down the rivers. We even had our very own tour guide, the leader of the exchange. He used to live in Amsterdam for 6 years as a student and was able to point out and take us to all the small nooks and crannies of the city telling us things we probably wouldn’t have read in a book.

Amsterdam really is quite a beautiful city with great architecture, cool museums, and beautiful canals that remind you of Venice (minus the foul smell).

But Amsterdam also has a side to it that just doesn’t appeal to me. The side that every pot smoking, hippie backpacker goes to find paradise. Where “coffee shops” line the streets and the air is filled with that sweet aroma. The same place where sleezy old men and immature college students alike go for sex or at least to look. For me, the "Red Light District" was the most shocking part of Amsterdam. It is shocking and down right appalling to see these women, probably most there through the illegal sex trades, selling themselves. Yes, Amsterdam. It turns Amsterdam's beauty into a trashy hot spot. I never really had any desire to go to Amsterdam before for these very reasons.

Interestingly enough, if you ask a Dutchman what he thinks of those aspects of Amsterdam, he will tell you it is part of who they are. It is part of their culture. And therfore it is something everyone should see. They allow the use of marijuana and the solicitation of sex and prostitution out in the open, therefore maybe making it easier to control. Whatever the case, if I were in charge of my own country, say, Jessistan, I would abolish these practices. And that is what I have to say about that.

Post 100!!!!

2007-02-19T07:30:00.000-08:00

I have to take a short break from my adventures in the Netherlands and give a big shout out to my blog. Thats right, my blog!! We have just hit the 100th posting mark.

Wow, I cant even believe it. It has been a difficult relationship, my blog and I. We have been through a lot. There have been lots of highs and lows. Its been a bumpy ride. But I wouldn't give it up for anything. There have been times where I let my blog down and failed to write weeks and months on end. But now, I think we have have gotten through the rough patches. I am regularly updating, making not only my blog happy, but my few readers happy too. So, here's to you BLOG. I heart you! Congrats to you and me and making it to our 100th posting anniversary.

(*Note: Because I not only love self photos, but I also love the 80s. I had to post a little side pony tail action. Now all I need are some leg warmers.)

Mission Holland....

2007-02-18T08:15:00.000-08:00

The Mission: Toting around 9 students with the help of a Bulgarian colleague, Mima and another PCV, Max as chaperons. Nine students, three adults, and Holland at our disposal. It was great!

The Place: Roermond, Holland. A smallish town in the southern region close to the German and Belgium borders. A quaint town with smooth, pristine roads, marked bike paths, and perfect little houses and shops. A great place for a quick getaway.

The Purpose: A cross cultural exchange between our Bulgarian students and the Dutch students. The Bulgarian students stayed with host families and formed quick friendships with their student counterparts. A bond that left the kids saying goodbye with lots of hugs and tears. (The Dutch kids will be coming to Bulgaria for the second part of the exchange in May. It should be a great reunion.)

Okay, enough of that. You get the gist. Overall the trip was a success. It was the first of its kind for our school and hopefully wont be the last. We had no idea what to expect but as in true Bulgarian fashion, we went with it.

The program consisted of the BG kids attending classes about art, history, drugs, astronomy, culture, geography, and a bit of the language. They were even able to go to a vocational branch of the school and do real hands on cooking. They learned how to prepare a traditional Dutch meal. Which actually wasn't that dissimilar from Bulgarian food, although they may tell you otherwise. (But hey, they got the mayonnaise salad, the meat ball and the potatoes. How much more Bulgarian can you get?) The program also included a day trip to Amsterdam. A trip which deserves its own blog.

All in all the kids had a blast as did the teachers. We were on the go go go from the start and it was sometimes hard to keep up with the busy schedule. Being exhausted by the end of the day it was a nice treat to be taken out by the Dutch colleagues for delicious feasts, good company and enjoyable conversations. Roermond, and Holland in general, are definitely worth a trip back.

Winter is back.....

2007-02-15T23:41:00.000-08:00

...and this is how I feel about that.

The sky is no longer blue, and it started to rain again. There have even been small snow flurries in the air. It is time for me to say goodbye to the ballet slippers and hellooooo boots. Now when I go out I have to bundle up in even more layers than I already wear, put on the scarf, hat and gloves. This is my least favorite season (especially with so little snow this season keeping the dingy look of Bulgaria). But at least I have a big furry hood to keep me warm. That is the important thing.

And really, how often do you see me frown. I mean, I am not even good at it. This is a sad excuse for a frown. Maybe more of a dear in headlights expression.

Why I love SCRABBLE...

2007-02-04T11:25:00.000-08:00

This word game was invented during the great depression and originally named Lexico, then "Criss-Cross Words." Eventually it was renamed SCRABBLE, meaning "to grope frantically," and was trademarked in 1948. And that is the same game people play today.

It is this same game that I have come to love here in Bulgaria. I had actually never played Scrabble until I got here. After moving into my apartment, I went through and cleaned all the closets, cabinets and drawers. That is when I happened across a travel size game of Scrabble. I don't play the game too often, but when I do, I throughly enjoy myself. And when I do play, I always find myself playing with people who possess a larger, almost obscure vocabulary. I may not always win, but I always come out of the game with a bit more knowledge of words I may never use except in my next game of Scrabble.

And one of my favorite things about the game is this. When you play for fun, and you play with someone nice, sometimes they are willing to help you out a little. Sometimes they are willing to tell you if a word is a word without you putting it down yet. This happened to me in my recent game of Scrabble. I wasn't sure about a word. As it turned out, my word really was a word. And I managed to get 74 points for it. 74 points for a word I didn't even know the meaning of. 74 points for the word QUINCE!

Quince meaning:

A western Asian shrub or tree having white flowers and hard apple-like fruit.
The aromatic, many-seeded fruit of this plant, edible only when cooked.

And that is why I love Scrabble. You always come out of the game a little smarter. And you can kick a little ass with words like QUINCE.

(*Note: The game board above is the Russian version of Scrabble. The letters pictured closely represent the Bulgarian alphabet with a few differences. The picture was found online.)