Matt's Big Party...

So, there comes a time when you have to say goodbye. And there is no better way to say goodbye to someone with lots of friends. On Saturday night the Stara Zagora gang decided to send Matt off in style. We did it up right. Alex, Ryan, Melody, Matt and I went for good food, lots of drinks and a night on the town.

We started out with some good chinese food accompanied by beer, rakia or vodka, depending on your drink of choice. After a couple of drinks we felt warmed up and headed out. We headed to the new bowling alley (yes, Stara Zagora now has 2 bowling alleys. Who knew there was such a high demand for bowling in one town.). Thought it would be a happening place on a saturday since it just opened that weekend. But we thought wrong. We decided to bowl a game anyways. And guess who won, breaking 150?? Oh yeah, that would be ME!

From there we headed to the better of the bowling alleys, Caribe Bowl. Put on our styling shoes once again, and bowled the balls down the middle. Ryan even managed to bowl a strike at midnight winning himself a free pizza. How cool is that?!

(The free pizza voucher for the strike at midnight.)

(The two winners of the night, me and Ryan.)

Because bowling happens to be an expensive sport here in Bulgaria, we headed off to the pool table, dart board, and air hockey table. The night was filled with lots of stories, laughter and good times. I am confident in saying a good time was had by all, especially Matt.

Madrid...here we come!

SPAIN!!!

Oh, how I miss thee. Soon enough I will be back to my old stomping ground. And these are the girls I will be traveling with. And the countdown is...1 month, 2 weeks and 6 days!! Cant wait.

Maybe I should brush up on my Spanish.

Toilet = Bano
Beer = Cervesa

I think that is all I need to know. See you soon Madrid.

Happy Halloween!!!

Just a glimpse into how Peace Corps volunteers celebrate the very American holiday. About 40 or so volunteers gathered at the blue house in the very beautiful town of Veliko Turnovo. We were able to get wild and crazy without any Bulgarians staring at us, shaking their heads.

Costumes included everything from Edward Scissorhands, a shower, jazzersize girl, a bulgarian grandma, an angel and devil, Evil Caneeval, a bulgarian soccer player, a catholic schoolgirl, a couple of cats, and much more.


And yup, thats me in the middle. I am a bee keeper. I have the big rubber boots, the mesh net hat thingy, and even the fogger to calm the bees. And you bet I am bringing that costume back to the states with me. Its just classic. Cant get much better than that.


Trick or treat!!!!

Ahhh, the Summer.

Picture Gallery...

After climbing over 1,000 steps, we made it to the top of the Shipka Freedom Monument in Bulgaria. It is cold and windy, but well worth the climb. The view is amazing.
















Venice. We loved the birds. And the birds loved us. And all the other hundreds of tourists that waste their Euros on the small bags of corn. But let me tell you, it is addicting. And the birds are fat. So fun!



I guess I have a thing for birds because here is another one. On the black sea coast, I observed and helped with a bird ringing. They set up these nets and the small birds fly into the nets. Then we grab the birds and put small rings on their legs to track them. I am holding just a little guy.

















The girls come to visit. Do I really need to say more. Their first night in Bulgaria didn't end until the sun came up..literally.
















And then, there was Greece. Pure beauty. Need I say more.

















And finally, Turkey. A photographer at the Shiny Club roamed the club and we made the front page (of their website)! Ah, shiny..we love you.



Well, thats all for now.

Update...Long Overdue.

To those that actually read this:

Here is an email I sent to a few people. And afterwards I realized, "Wow, that would be a really good post to my blog. To get people back in the loop." So, here it is. My long overdue update of life in Bulgaria.

To start, and to be very general, things here in Bulgaria are going well. I am well into my second year and am happy and healthy. And the countdown has started. Right now is at 8 months and counting. It’s weird to think I am almost done. It’s just the home stretch now. And man, has the time gone by fast!


But to be more specific, let me fill you in on what I have been up to over the last many months. I finished the last school year in June. And shortly after that, my parents and brother came for the big awaited visit. My dad was brave enough to rent a car and managed to get us safely around Bulgaria. The drivers here are nuts, so it’s a lucky thing our car had no bumps or bruises when it was time to hand in the keys. We explored Sofia, Rila Monastery, Stara Zagora (of course), and Shipka Pass and also Veliko Turnovo. It was a short visit in Bulgaria but I know they enjoyed their time here. Unless it was the extremely cheap beer prices they liked more. But I am thinking, the best part of the trip was simply seeing me!


From Bulgaria, we headed to Italy to enjoy the hot Italian sun. And it was H-O-T! From Rome to Florence to Pisa to Venice we enjoyed a bit of shopping, much good food and even better wine by the craft. Oh, the life. I could stay there forever, (but definitely not on my Peace Corps budget.) I can’t even express how nice it was to see some friendly faces from home. But when the goodbyes were said and done, I was ready to go home, my Bulgarian home. Excited to get back to my cat and coziness of my apartment.

During the summer, I simply enjoyed my free time away from my students. I traveled around the country, meeting up with other Peace Corps volunteers, laid out next to the local pool and even made it out to the black sea.

With another volunteer, I helped an environmental NGO release 20 storks. I even held the stork in my arms and released it in the water myself. What a cool feeling.


The next big excitement of the summer was when my two best friends came out to visit. That was just crazy fun. It was also nice to spend some time with the girls... We headed to Greece and Turkey for a few days each. In Greece, we only managed to get to Thessaloniki and Khalkidhiki. The beaches there were absolutely gorgeous and the water, amazing and warm. In Turkey, we did the whole tourist thing in Istanbul. That city is really, a very unique city. It is definitely on my top 5 of favorite cities that I have traveled to. It is unlike any city I have ever been. So much rich culture and beauty. Wow. I can’t even put it into words and pictures don’t do it justice. Let’s just say, I am planning another trip there before I leave.


So, those were my summer adventures. And now, school is back in session. I am much more prepared this time around which is always a good thing. I even created a course curriculum text book for my classes. It is just a compilation of different lessons put into one book. Everything from the Rwandan Genocide to Tobacco Use to Poetry to Short Story writing and more. And my students each happily bought a copy. On top of my super busy schedule of almost twice as many classes as last year, I am still working on the implementation phase of the grant I wrote. We have the library and multi media room underway and hopefully able to be used by the start of the New Year. It is really a great addition to the school. I am also busy with other Peace Corps projects. I am on a committee to review other volunteer's grant proposals. So I am getting a lot of new useful skills in grant writing and review. It is hard work but fun. I really enjoy it.


As the weather continues to drop, I am trying hard to brace myself for the cold winter that will be here any day. It is also very evident in the town as all the outdoor cafes have disappeared. My small radiator is constantly plugged in keeping only one room of my apartment warm. But I do have one thing to look forward to. As I will not be heading home for Christmas, I will be heading to Madrid for the New Year. I get to get back to my old stomping ground, if only for a week. Also, four of my girlfriends have already bought tickets to come visit. They will be making the long haul to Bulgaria in early June. It is a long way off, but just something else to look forward to.

So, that’s all for now. I hope this wasn’t too much of a bore for you to read. But I thought it was time to send an update. So, come 8 months from now, I will be home...stateside with a big ol' smile!

SZ's Mayor's Car Bombed in Bulgaria

Crime: 8 June 2006, Thursday.

A bomb blasted a car belonging to the mayor of the southern city of Stara Zagora on Thursday, minutes after midnight, media reported.

Evgenii Zhelev's office car was parked in front of the block where he lives. No one was hurt at the blast, but four other vehicles were damaged along with Zhelev's Opel.

The explosion shattered the windows of the first three floors of the two nearby buildings, authorities explained.

This is the second assault against the mayor, media reported. A bomb was placed before his apartment on June 28, 2004, but the culprits were never found.

Stara Zagora locals have long been protesting against the repeated gassing of the city, and tension in the region has been building up for a while. A major protest was held hours before the blast, giving the government just a month and a half more to point at the culprit for the city's ongoing environmental problems.

President Georgi Parvanov gathered several ministers on Tuesday to discuss the problem.

Bulgaria OKs Three Bases for U.S. Troops

From the WASHINGTON TIMES
By Nicholas Kralev
----------------------------

Bulgaria has agreed to open three military bases to permanent use by 2,500 U.S. troops who would be available for combat in the Middle East and other nearby regions. Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice will seal the deal when she visits the country this week.

Miss Rice, who leaves on a trip to the Balkans today, is expected to sign a broad defense-cooperation agreement with the new NATO ally that would authorize the stationing of foreign forces on its soil for the first time in its 1,325-year history, U.S. and Bulgarian officials said.

The final draft of the agreement, which was seen by The Washington Times, allows the United States to deploy troops from the bases for missions in third countries without the specific permission of the Bulgarian authorities, a sensitive matter for many Bulgarians.

"One of the key issues anywhere is our ability to use our soldiers where we need them," said a senior U.S. official. "Otherwise, we would be tying ourselves [down]. The old model [during the Cold War] was that we had forces in Europe because we thought we'd fight in Europe."

The possibility that U.S. troops would use a country with a large Muslim minority as a base for an attack on a Muslim nation, such as Iran or Syria, has provoked vocal opposition in Bulgaria. A nationalist party represented in the parliament plans to stage massive protests against the agreement during Miss Rice's visit.

Another difficult issue during the negotiations involved jurisdiction over any crimes committed by U.S. military personnel in Bulgaria. It was resolved in a convoluted 10-line sentence, which the senior U.S. official said is standard for such documents.

"The Bulgarians waive the right to primary jurisdiction, but, in cases of particular importance, they recall the waiver and reassert their jurisdiction," the official explained in much simpler language. He noted that most crimes committed by U.S. forces abroad "are fairly minor."

A senior Bulgarian official said Sofia was satisfied with the arrangement and that the two countries would work together on a case-by-case basis in the event of any serious crimes.

Officials of both countries said the United States will not pay rent for its use of the Bezmer and Graf Ignatievo air bases and the Novo Selo army training range and storage facility. But, according to the agreement, it will cover "operational and maintenance expenses."

"If we decide we need commercial property, we'll pay," the senior U.S. official said.

The senior Bulgarian official said that any new facilities built by the Americans will remain Bulgarian property during and after the Americans'presence in the country.

The Bulgarians are hoping the agreement will generate employment in the country, but may be disappointed.

"We don't plan on having that many permanent workers," the senior U.S. official said. "But Bulgarian companies are eligible for contracts for services if they meet our requirements and standards."

There will be 2,500 U.S. troops stationed on the three bases in southern Bulgaria at any given time, although their number could reach 5,000 during rotation periods, the official said.

The agreement, which has to be ratified by the Bulgarian parliament before entering into force, runs for 10 years and will be automatically renewed. Either side can terminate it with one year's notice.

Miss Rice signed a similar agreement with Romania in December. It has been ratified by the parliament's lower chamber and is currently awaiting approval by the Senate, said Sorin Ducaru, the Romanian ambassador to Washington.

Both Bulgaria and Romania are former Warsaw Pact countries whose strategic location at the crossroads of Europe and the Middle East attracted Washington's attention after the September 11 attacks, ensuring their admission to NATO.

Miss Rice will participate in a meeting of the NATO foreign ministers in Sofia and will also visit Greece and Turkey.

My life right now....

...is great!

As for teaching, I am half way through my second semester of teaching. Each day seems to be better than the last. I continue to learn new things about this difficult profession. I gain more confidence as I stand up there in front of my 250 students teaching them what I know. Right now I am working with different classes on Poetry, Folktales, and Advertising. It has become more of a creating writing class with me, but they seem to take well to it. It is such an amazing sight to see my "difficult" students (meaning those that never do anything in my class, other than play games on their phone) are actually taking part in my class. On those days, I walk home with a bit of satisfaction that I have done my job well.


As for other things, I am currently working on writing a grant for my school. It is a Small Project Assistant (SPA) grant through USAID. The project consists of updating the current English Library and Media Resource Room. The existing one is quite inadequate for todays standards for developing language skills. Our hope is to get the grant approved for newer books, a computer, printer, projector, etc... It is a strange thought to think that when I was a student, these type of things were already in every classroom without question. But unfortunately, this is not the case in Bulgaria....Hence my project. Grant writing is a difficult process, but one I am quite enjoying. I am learning so much from this experience. I will be able to take these skills back with me when I finish my service. Not to mention, my Bulgarian colleagues also know how to write a grant. They can now pursue other avenues in order to develop their school needs. We are not finished yet, but at least we have the ball rolling.



As for things I have to look forward, srping break is less than a week away for me. I head on a mini vacation (with Matt) to Serbia, Bosnia, and Croatia. We will be taking many trains and buses, but will have a chance to see other countries in the Balkan region. The itinerary thus far is as follows. We will be taking a train from Sofia (Bulgaria) to Belgrade (Serbia). Straight away we will be heading to Sarajevo (Bosnia) for a couple days. I am most excited for this city as it has so much recent and unfortunate history. From Sarajevo, we will take a bus to Dubrovnik (Croatia) and spend 3 very relaxing days and nights. Dubrovnik is right on the Adriatic sea. Lets just hope the weather is good for our seaside stay. After lots of fun in the sun we will slowly head back to Bulgaria stopping in Sarajevo for another night and Belgrade for a couple days. The trip should be a lot of fun (and traveling)...and definitely worth it. I will be sure to take lots of pictures.


Upon my return back to Bulgaria, I will have another week of teaching before I head out to London. There I will be meeting up with my sister, Jenny and brother-in-law, Scott. Having been to London before, I am more excited to finally see family. People keep asking me what I am going to do and see there. I just say, "I am along for the ride. It is all up to Jenny and Scott." (So you better plan a rocking good trip..but I have no doubts that you will.)

After London, comes the one year mark of my service on April 22nd and the home stretch till summer in July. But for now, I will enjoy the spring weather and outdoor cafes of Stara Zagora. People watching can take up the good part of a beautiful day...and I look forward to it all. I may even catch a good chess game between the diados (grandpas) in the park. Keep living healthy!

(Note: Pictures are taken around Stara Zagora.)

Its been awhile....

I know, I know. It has been waaay too long.


I have kept you all out of the loop for the past two months. But have no fear. Spring is back...and so am I. I am alive and happy! Please read my latest updates, dated before this post. And I will try to make a better effort to keep my blog updated...

The Rumor is True....

All Bulgarian women are BEAUTIFUL!!!

(Article from Sofia News Agency)

Charming brunette Alice Panikian, who was born in Bulgaria, was crowned the new Miss Universe Canada in Montreal Quebec.

Alice who is 20 years old and stands 1.86 m in height, will go on to compete in the Miss Universe 2006 pageant.

Alice Panikian was born in Sofia, Bulgaria and came to Canada when she was five years old. She is in her second year at York University majoring in English and Communications. She loves to read and write and hopes to become a broadcast journalist.

The young lady earned the nod of the judges with her elegance, intelligence and overall package. She was anointed Miss Universe Canada 2006, defeating 48 other hopefuls Tuesday night.

"It's surreal. I think I'm dreaming," Panikian said, checking her pulse. "No, no, I'm not."

The judges rated the young women on poise, confidence, intelligence, physical fitness, and beauty as they modeled in swimsuits and evening gowns and made impromptu speeches.

Kukeri Fun!

A little bit of Halloween, a little bit of the Castro, and a little bit of Star Wars. This is the scene for most Kukeri festivals in the small rural villages of Bulgaria. This past weekend, I went to one of the biggest and most well-known Kukeri festivals in Shiroka Luka, high up in the Rhodopes. This is a "must do" in Bulgaria.


Now, let me begin to explain. The Kukeri is an important masked ritual of dance in the last days of the winter, just before nature comes back to life. The participants are male only, dressed in sheepskin garments and wearing scary masks and chanove (copper bells) on their belts. (Transdressers and Chewbacha look alikes are also present.) These men dance and sing songs and chants, with the intention to scare away the evil spirits or ghosts which people believed came back to the living ones in winter.


The ritual is a mixture between Christian and pagan traditions and symbols. There is a strong correlation between the event and the peasant life. It is a unique folklore, which can be seen only in Bulgaria. The traditional mask is multi-coloured, covered with beads, ribbons and woolen tassels. The dress too, is colorful and florid once again up to the individual imagination. The heavy swaying of the main mummer is meant to represent wheat heavy with grain, and the noisy clanging of the bells is intended to drive away the evil and sickness.


To experience an "authentic" Kukeri, it seems one must travel some respectable distances. I having had traveled on three different buses in a period of 6 hours, was ready for a good show. And that is exactly what I got.

Happy Grandma March!

So, today is March 1st. That meaning, it's Baba Marta (Баба Марта )! It is probably Bulgaria's most intrinsic holiday because it is purely unique to Bulgaria. The custom of wearing martenitsis (Мартеници) is only popular in Bulgaria. (I guess the backwards head nod is another one of those things that is popular ONLY in Bulgaria as well. At least we can say they have a uniquely different culture.)


Anyways...the holiday is celebrated by giving these red and white bracelets or pins, a.k.a. Martenitsis, to friends and loved ones. The streets are lined with vendors selling these things. They have all kinds of Martenitsi too, some have tassels, some have blue clasps, others have super heros, princesses, football teams and of course Alf (loved by all Bulgarians). The tradition is associated with optimism and anticipation of warmer weather, fertility and well-being. The white is supposed to symbolize a long life and red, health. According to tradition, when you see the first stork or swallow of the year, you are supposed to tie your martenitsa to a tree or bury it under a rock and you will have good health for the rest of the year.

Although there are many folk-legends based around this tradition, the following story is one of the most popular:

Many, many years ago, Khan Isperih left his home in the far away Tibetan mountains and went in search of fertile land for his people, the proto-Bulgarians. He crossed many mountains and rivers until finally he stopped in the land of the Slavs who met him cordially. Slav women, dressed in white, brought him cups of wine and the tables were piled with food, the fruits of this blessed land. But the khan was not happy for he was sick for his family – his mother and his sister Kalina. He sat on the bank of the big river and tears like pearls dropped down his masculine cheeks. His eyes looked in prayer towards the sun and the gods. And then the miracle happened.

A swift swallow alighted on his shoulder, and Isperih told her of his grief. The swallow flew away to the lands from which the Bulgarians came and told Kalina in a human voice that her brother has a new kingdom, that he grieves about her and sends her greetings. Kalina was very happy to hear that and decided to send a message to her brother. She made a nosegay of green plants, tied it with white woolen thread, made some knots on it meaning best regards and sent it back with the swallow.

The bird flew like thunder and very soon was on the shoulder of Isperih again. But after the long journey, its wing was wounded and its bright red blood had tinted the thread. The khan took the nosegay with joy, read in the knots his sister’s greetings, put the nosegay on his breast and the martenitza shone bright. Since that moment, Isperih ordered his people to make a bunch of twisted white and red thread and wear it on their breasts on this day – for health and blessing from heaven.


This happened on 1st of March and the tradition has remained until this day. It is a tradtion loved by all, too. It may seem a bit excessive, but I walked home from school today with about 75 martinisis covering both my wrists. I just kept getting them as gifts from teachers and students alike and I didn't want to offend anyone so I kept putting them on. Although the tradition says that I must keep them on until I see a swallow or stork, or the end of March, whichever comes first, I have decided to take the majority of them off. It is, really, a fascinating custom though. Now wherever you go you see people sporting these things. Little kids, police officers, bus drivers, even the stray cat has one as a collar...everyone!

Meet Penny...

In my most recent package, I was sent "The March of the Penguins." Thanks Mom! I have always been a sucker for those cheesy romantic movies.. And this is no exception. (Not that this is a cheesy movie.) I actually througholy enjoyed watching it. This is a true love story, in that it follows the mating rituals of the emperor penguin, one of the most resilient animals on earth.


The Synopsis:
Each summer, after a nourishing period of deep-sea feeding, the penguins pop up onto the ice and begin their procession across the frozen tundra of Antarctica. Walking in single file, they are a sight to behold. Hundreds converge from every direction, moving instinctively toward their mating ground. Once there, they mingle and chatter until they find the perfect mate--a monogamous match that will last a year, through the brutal winter and into the spring. During that time, the mother will birth an egg and then leave for the ocean to feed again. The father will stay to protect the egg through the freezing blizzards and pure darkness of winter, which would be deadly to practically any other species. Finally, with spring, the egg hatches and the baby penguins are born. Mothers return from the sea to reunite with their families and feed the starving newborns, while the fathers are finally relieved of their protective duties after months without food.

The film is remarkable in its story, which is narrated by Morgan Freeman, whose dignified voice gives the penguins the grave admiration they deserve. But even more incredible is its photography, which shows the penguins hunting underwater, sliding on the ice, and in the midst of "kissing." A story of love and more strikingly, survival, MARCH OF THE PENGUINS is any eye-opening and educational experience.

Rent it. Buy it. I don't care...Just watch this wonderful documentary film.

Getting (No) Satisfaction

(From the Sofia News Agency)

Individuals know, as a rule, how to tackle the future. The country, as a rule, does not. Defying worrying overhaul of the constitution, thorny EU road and economic doldrums, the Bulgarian is a survivor. Yet an unhappy one.


Take this week's European Quality of Life Survey. It shows Bulgarians to be European leaders in home ownership (nearly 85% own their own home without a mortgage), yet one of the least satisfied people on the continent. Reminds me of a poster that hangs on the wall against my desk. The "Perfect European Should be" - humorous as a German, sober as an Irish, controlled as an Italian, humble as a Spaniard... Aware of all the prejudices, revelations and sarcasm that the poster depicts, a recent brainstorm with my colleagues generated a "genius" new entry - "Satisfied as a Bulgarian".

How come Bulgarians' arduous search for satisfaction ended up in a dozen square meters of private floorage? Is it the lack of community and identification that makes us so sad? We turn our eyes to Brussels only to see that after this week's proposal for enforcement of the judicial safeguard clause, we will have restricted freedom at the new home of our big European family. "Make yourself at home, but stay away from the garden, " was Brussels's message. There is nothing shameful about not being satisfied. But we will have to look further than properties and international allegiances for getting there.

How cold is it??

The frigid weather brought down from Russia's cold front has blanketed much of Bulgaria. The temperatures have fell to as low as minus 17 degrees Celsius (or 1 degree Fahrenheit) in the northern parts of the country..and that is in the sun. The strong tornado-like winds make it seem even colder.


It has been so cold here that many schools around the country have closed their doors in fears of the harsh weather, but hopeful that the cold wave will pass by Monday. My school is one of them. Although I have a mere eight minute walk to school, many of my students and colleagues live 20-30 minutes away by foot. As they walk into school with their red and wind burned faces, you can tell they failed to get a taxi. So thank you Russia for yet another few days off.

In the meantime power consumption has rocketed sky-high, as many people (including myself) resort to electric heaters. I don't remember the last time I unplugged it. Good thing I don't pay the bill. I am still trying to figure out a way to bring my heater to bed with me. Until then, I will have to rely on my five layers of clothing, the seven blankets on my bed, and my warm kitty all nestled together in my smallest room. I don't dare try to cook as my kitchen is so cold I cant feel my fingers after about 5 minutes, not to mention I can see my own breath. Wow..thats cold!


Forecasts say daytime temperatures were to ease no earlier than Thursday. But the temperatures are still down, and the cold weather has already claimed several lives including a six-month-old baby who froze to death here in Stara Zagora. The infant was brought frozen to the local ER where it later passed away. Also, an unidentified female body was found in the neighboring town of Kazanlak. The woman was found frozen near a housing block.

So, needless to say, I am bundled up next to my radiator that I like to pretend is a cozy fire, and I venture outdoors only when need be. So for those of you in California...please..soak up those warm rays for me.

Bomb Alert in US Embassy in Sofia, 2 Arrested

From the Sofia News Agency:

A man and a woman have been arrested over a tip-off about a bomb planted in the United States Embassy in Sofia, police said.

The two, aged 32 and 38 respectively, admitted they threatened to blow off the building of the United States in the hope that it will be closed.

On January 24 at noon an anonymous caller, a woman, told the diplomatic mission that an explosive device has been planted in the building.

After receiving the tip-off, police found the woman called from a street telephone at "Cherni Vruh" boulevard in the capital.

The perpetrators, whose names were not disclosed, had borrowed money from people in the town of Blagoevgrad with the promise to get their US visas issued. By causing the embassy to shut down, they hoped to skip the chance to give them back the money.

From the New York Times....

Bulgaria: Coming in From the Cold, Slowly

By DENNY LEE
Published: January 22, 2006

Much has changed in Bulgaria since it shook off Soviet domination in 1989. Free elections have been held, and its economic and political capital, Sofia, is thriving. But as it emerges as a tourist destination, mostly in the beach resorts along the Black Sea, Bulgaria is also showing that it is a nation that can celebrate a refreshing lack of progress.

Hidden throughout this big and fertile land in remote gorges and on craggy hilltops are dozens of astonishingly intact painted monasteries that are centuries old. They offer visitors a rare chance to see Europe as it once was - before the euro, before World War II, before electricity.

It is a bit like castle-hopping in Tuscany, but without the postcard kiosks and hordes of foreigners who block your photo opportunities. Of the former nations of the Soviet bloc, Bulgaria has been among the slowest to come in from the cold, which means that much of the country remains off the tourist map.

But some luxury tour operators like Abercrombie & Kent have added Bulgaria to their list of 2006 tours. Highlights include a guided trip to the flamingo-pink Rila Monastery, some 70 miles south of Sofia, as well as a private dinner in the SS. Peter and Paul Monastery, near the university town of Veliko Turnovo. There are also some 600 mineral springs in the country, and a few luxury spa resorts are in the works.

Bulgaria has nine Unesco World Heritage sites, including the Srebarna Nature Reserve, a marshy breeding ground for birds. In fact, much of the countryside remains wild. You can explore caves in the Balkan Range, ski at Borovets or hunt for red stags and brown bears from rustic camps throughout the country.

Tell me again...why wouldn't you want to come visit me???

My Quick Jaunt to Greece...

Where to begin? It all started many months ago when the fabulous Peace Corps Medical Staff informed me that I had a medical issue. They told me what the situation was...and I freaked. I have always been a healthy person minus that Mono I had freshman year of college (but everyone gets Mono in college). So they reassured me that I simply needed to have a biopsy and do a few tests. Okay. So it wasn't as bad as I thought. After I went to a doctor in Sofia that specialized in the procedure, I thought I was good to go. But unfortunately, this Bulgarian doctor proved not up to par with her skills. Thus leading me to have the biopsy repeated.


And that brings us up to present day. Peace Corps then informed that I had two options... Bucharest, Romania or Thessaloníki, Greece. I opted for the latter. Greece it was. And I was off! Matt and I left on a 7 am train from Sofia. A lot of conversation, a few snacks and even fewer minutes of shut eye later, we arrived in Greece. I was 1 pm. Thats a long train ride. I only wished I had my travel scrabble.

It was a very strange feeling to be thrown into a city where you have no idea what is going on. You don't know your surroundings and more importantly, you don't speak the language. But, we managed to find our way around, enjoy the sites and enjoy some really delicious food. After all, we are self-sufficient Peace Corps Volunteers. We knew what it was like to be thrown into an unknown land.


My impressions of Thessaloníki were amazing. Being the second largest city of Greece, Thessaloníki kept up its end of the bargain. There were soo many cars with even more mopeds whizzing past. The waterfront was a very refreshing feeling with the clear water and few boats. The city itself seemed rather unique with a lot of history. (Unfortunately, places closed by three and we ran out of time.) But I do plan to go back this summer, for a longer, more relaxed journey.


Now, Matt and I are peacefully back in Stara Zagora and I couldnt be happier. A few days after my second biopsy the test results came back. And they came back great! There were no significant signs of abnormal cells and I am back to normal. I am considered healthy again. And I got a free trip to Greece in the process.

Gift Ideas for Friends...

Are you stuck on ideas of what to get your friends and family for their birthday, anniversary, or just because. Tired of the same old sweater or pair of earrings. Then I have just the thing for you. Hand crafted scarves, hats, sweaters...You name it, they knit it! Check it out today. These same ladies are even teaching ME how to knit. Who would have thought!

The following is a message from one of my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers and site mate:

For the past year I’ve been working with a group of disabled women living in the Home for the Handicapped in Stara Zagora (a city in central Bulgaria). The women are craft knitters and, as a part of a SPA Project (SPA = Small Project Assistance; this is a grant through the Peace Corps), we have created a web site to sell their products online.

Each woman’s short biography is posted along with our catalog of offered products. Our intent is to personalize the buying experience as much as possible. Upon receipt of an order, the customer will receive a confirmation letter (email) telling them which woman will knit their product and when it will be shipped. The customer can ask for modifications to the product and can correspond with the knitter by email. We accept all major credit cards.

Shipping to America is FREE via BulPost and we have an overnight service available, at the customer’s expense, with lower rates than DHL, UPS or FedEx.

Our web address is:

www.handknitcrafts.com

Regards,

Larry Gemmell
Community and Organizational Development,
Peace Corps Volunteer
Stara Zagora
lhgemmell@mac.com

Holden and Costa...

Just killing some time on a random Wednesday afternoon. But these are my two beloved cats.

Holden, about 3 years, is my cat from college. We like to call him the little guy although he weighs in at about 16 pounds and is quite an attack cat.

On the other hand, Constantine or Costa for short is my kitten here in Bulgaria. And he has somehow taken after Holden leaving my friends with bloody scratches up and down their arms.


Cant wait till they meet. I wonder who would win that fight.

The Best State!!!!

You're California!

In many ways, you are larger than life and almost defy description. You certainly love to shake, rattle, and roll with the best of them. You have a generally sunny disposition, but are capable of resorting to harsh extremes when pressed. You are more likely than most to become rich, or famous, or perhaps both. While you have the golden touch in so many regards, your respect for actors is a little over-zealous. This endless faith in actors needs to be terminated.

Take the State Quiz
at the Blue Pyramid.

I really am from California!!!!

Happy 2006!

Good friends. Games. Champagne. Fireworks.

It was the perfect setting for a New Years celebration. And that is exactly what it was. I spent the eve with my great site mates Matt, Alex, and Larry and a friend from out of town, Jennifer.


We enjoyed.... One home cooked meal of Indian. One game of Yatzee. Two card games, Asshole and Bullshit. Three different types of beverages: wine, champagne, and rakia. Lots of laughs. And even more fireworks.

The evening was spent at Larry's eigth floor flat with a beautiful view of the entire city of Stara Zagora. And noone in a few mile radius of the city could be mistaken that the clock struk midnight and the new year was upon us. From every direction loud bursts of fireworks were set off from the streets, rooftops and even the apartment baloconies. It was quite a sight..


It was a very different New Years but unique and unforgettable nonetheless. Happy 2006!

One Year Ago...

Last year, New Years was spent with these beautiful girls. This year looks to be much different....We will have to wait and see.

The Dunkin Donut Guy....

The Associated Press reported that Michael Vale, the actor best known for his portrayal of a sleepy-eyed Dunkin' Donuts baker who said "Time to make the donuts," has died Saturday. He was 83 years old. Vale's long-running character, "Fred the Baker," became a cultural icon. The ad campaign lasted 15 years, until Vale retired in 1997. Although I was unfamilar with this American icon, I am sure he will be missed.

**Note: The picture is of Dunkin Donuts in Sofia, Bulgaria.

Christmas in Bulgaria..

Vesela Koleda. Merry Christmas in Bulgarian. This year the holiday was spent very different than any other year.


For one, I was in Bulgaria, away from my own family spending it with my Bulgarian family. Christmas Eve and Christmas day seemed pretty uneventful. I just hung around the house chatting with my host sister and playing with the cats. When I wasn't doing that, I was eating lots of food and drinking lots of Rakia (the homemade liquor of Bulgaria.) Very few gifts were exchanged and few were in attendance. It was just like an ordinary day in the home of the Perfanov's.


The highlight of the weekend were the get togethers with my host sister's friends in a neighboring village. There, I even got a wedding proposal! And although I missed the traditional slaughter of the pig, I was able to see the aftermath (hence the pictures.)

So, all in all it was a pleasant holiday.... but maybe next year I will come home, back to the states, to enjoy the lively festivities my family has to offer. Cheers!

Panagyrishte

My first home in Bulgaria was in a small mountain town called Panagyrishte.


Now, I am headed back. Headed home for the holidays. I am very excited to see my host family and catch up on the last five months. And now I can actually hold a decent conversation with them. That is my hope anyways.

Well, I am off. Merry Christmas to all.

Christmas Jokes...

Knock Knock.
Who is there?
Mary.
Mary who?
Mary Christmas.

What do you call a penguin in the Sahara Desert?
Lost.


How do you put four reindeer in a car?
Two in the front and two in the back.

How do you get four elephants in a car?
Take the reindeer out.

What do reindeer have that no other animals have?
Baby reindeer.


How long do reindeer's legs need to be?
Just long enough to touch the ground.

And finally....

Knock knock.
Who is there?
Snow.
Snow who?
Snow business like show business.

Stara Zagora's First Snow....

All I have to say is....


BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.


It is COLD here. But it looks like a winter wonderland and I love it. Now I just have to learn to walk on ice....that seems to be a bit trickier.

The Meaning of X-Mas

This is a column by Jon Carroll, who writes for the SF Chronicle. I thoroughly enjoyed it, and I figured I'd share with everyone. Enjoy, and by the way... Happy Holidays. ;-)
____________________________________________________

The Meaning of X-Mas

This column is brought to you by the letter X, which occupies a singular place in our culture. It is a primal shape, easy to make -- so illiterate people signed their name with it -- and easy to recognize -- so it marked the spot, whatever spot you wanted it to mark. There's a suggestion that, in the shadow parallel world of letters, the opposite of O is X, except it's understood that O is always slightly inferior to X. O is the defensive team in football diagrams, and O always goes second in tic-tac-toe games.

X became the symbol that indicated banning or condemnation, probably because it seems intuitively like the letter of denial -- see the European street sign featuring a circle with a slash. Don't go there. An X has two slashes -- really don't go there. But because the forbidden is attractive, X also became the letter of titillation, and makers of porn movies kept adding X's to indicate that their product was even Xier than competing films.

Triple X rated! You've seen X-rated movies. We're three times as dirty!

In cartoons, dead people have X's instead of eyes -- that's how you know they're dead. A key feature of cartoons is cross-hatching, which is, at its lowest level, making a series of X's for artistic reasons. And X's are often called crosses -- the British version of tic-tac-toe is called noughts and crosses. Crosses stuck in the ground mark the location of dead bodies, presumably because Jesus was crucified (or crossed).

There's also a widespread misunderstanding of the word Xmas, which is not in fact a cheap modern way of denigrating Christmas. Xmas has an ancient pedigree; the Greek letter chi, which is an X, is the first letter in Christos, and the symbol was used as shorthand by early Christians.

(The other ancient symbol for Christianity is a fish, the exact origin of which is in dispute. It could reference the Greek word for fish, or it could be an allusion to Christ calling his disciples "fishers of men," or it could be something else. These days, it's mostly seen in the debate about evolution that is being carried on, oddly enough, by metal symbols on the backs of cars. I once had a vision of a jammed freeway with back bumpers yelling at each other as they waited.)

Some ignorant people have decided that "Xmas" is part of the "war on Christmas," which is an ill-defined but fiercely held belief that secular cultural forces have combined to make Christmas less meaningful. One proof of that is the phrase "happy holidays" -- and if you'd told me a decade ago that I'd live in a world where "happy holidays" would become a flash point of controversy, I would have asked for a damp washcloth and nine Valiums.

I am unable to discern a war on Christmas, at least Christmas as I have known it. There are sparkling lights and little bells and jolly Santas and yule logs and Christmas carols and creches, creches, creches. In the supermarket, I am enjoined to come and adore him, born the king of angels, and I do not believe that they're singing about Santa -- who, as the Christian St. Nicholas, was a rather less jolly fellow than he is now. I do not notice who is wishing me "happy holidays" and who is wishing me "merry Christmas," because the operative words for me are "merry" and "happy," and for those thoughts much thanks.

Christmas itself is a big mash-up of traditions. The early church leaders didn't really know when Jesus was born, but there was already a big festival around the winter solstice, so why not get a twofer? Meaning that a real Christmas would happen sometime in August, just to make sure that there was no pagan taint. And there goes the Christmas tree, because dragging a tree into the house and worshiping it, sorry, decorating it -- that's pretty pagan too.

And because Christ enjoined us to give our money to the poor, the Christmas presents would go to shelters and soup kitchens and rest homes, with nothing for ourselves -- and, human nature being what it is, that would pretty much throw the entire world economy into a tailspin. We'd have to get rid of "Winter Wonderland" -- a song in which a couple presumably has carnal relations after being "married" by a snowman; pagan pagan pagan -- and "Frosty the Snowman" (Frosty was not gathered in the manger) and of course "Rudolph," that plucky little secular interloper. And good King Wenceslas looked out upon the Feast of Stephen, which is Dec. 26, which would be: close but no cigar.

I bet we could keep the little bells, though. And we can keep the little drummer boy: He'll go marching through our dreams, pa rum pum pum pum, rum pum pum pum, rum pum pum pum, with his drum.

Year in Review...

Well, thought this should be interesting. Enjoy.

1. What did you do in 2005 that you'd never done before?
I learned Bulgarian (a language useless in the states), moved to a new country, started a new profession and made entirely new friends. Like a friend said, I pretty much started living a new life.

2. Did you keep your new years' resolutions and will you make more for next year?
Are you kidding, no one ever keeps their resolutions, me included.

3. Did anyone close to you give birth?
Nope. And my sister better not be trying yet...not till I get back.

4. Did anyone close to you die?
Nope

5. What countries did you visit?
Just Bulgaria. And well, Italy during my layover, but that doesn't really count.

6. What would you like to have in 2006 that you lacked in 2005?
That is a tough one. I have my health and happiness. What more can I ask for.

7. What date from 2005 will remain etched in your memory, and why?
April 21, 2005. The day I said goodbye to my family, but met a rad girl named Julie, now my best friend here in BG.

8. What was your biggest achievement of the year?
Moving to Bulgaria to join the Peace Corps.

9. What was your biggest failure?
Nothing is considered failure...just a learning experience. Right?

10. Did you suffer illness or injury?
I got really sick in April. I even had to leave the SF Beer Fest early. Now you know I am really sick to leave an event like that.

11. What was the best thing you bought?
My laptop. Without it I would feel lost.

12. Whose behavior merited celebration?
My mom. She puts up with all my many obscure emails and requests. And sends package after package. She rocks!

13. Whose behavior made you appalled and depressed?
Honestly...some of my students. A few are just down right disrespectful.

14. Where did most of your money go?
Money?? hahahaha...I am a volunteer. I don't have any money.

15. What did you get really, really, really excited about?
SNOW!!!! Although it hasn't snowed here in Stara Zagora, I was in Sofia for a big storm. It was great. I think I may even have my first white Christmas.

16. What song will always remind you of 2005?
Louis XIV-Finding Out True Love is Blind.

17. Compared to this time last year, are you:
i. happier or sadder? its a toss up...i really miss my family and friends
ii. thinner or fatter? the same
iii. richer or poorer? poorer

18. What do you wish you had done more of?
writing to friends and family

19. What do you wish you had done less of?
assigning my students essays...it means I have to read and grade them

20. How will you be spending Christmas?
In Panagyrishte with my Bulgarian host family

21. What was your favorite TV program?
McCleouds Daughters and Myth Busters

22. What was the best book you read?
currently reading...The Kite Runner. This book is so effin good.

23. What was your greatest musical discovery?
Well, it was my friends discovery..Louis XIV. Ahh, the memories.

24. What did you want and get?
A challenge

25. What did you want and not get?
Nothing... My parents, aunt and uncle and friends rock with the packages!

26. What was your favorite film of this year?
I don't really watch too many current movies. But if I have to answer I would say the Interpreter with Nicole Kidman and Sean Penn.

27. What did you do on your birthday and how old were you?
I turned 23 and partied like crazy in Sofia with many good friends.

28. How would you describe your personal fashion concept in 2005?
lots and lots of layers..in the summer and winter

29. What kept you sane?
My Bulgarian boyfriend, Costa...my cat. At least I am not talking to myself.

30. What political issue stirred you the most?
Hurricane Katrina

31. Who do you miss?
I really miss my family and friends...and Holden (my kitty back home).

32. Who was the best new person you met?
All my new PC friends.. You know who you are.

33. Tell us a valuable life lesson you learned in 2005:
Always look on the bright side. I could be living in a mud hut in the middle of Africa with no running water...or electricity.

34. Quote a song lyric that sums up your year:
"Yo chocolate girl, you look like something I want,
Your little Asian friend, she can come if she wants."

35. What do you love most about this year?
I LOVE all the amazing experiences I have had that have helped me grow (i know, a bit cheesy) and be the person I am today.

My Wish List...

Okay, well, It just recently became the Christmas season here in my apartment. I have a small fake tree with colored lights and lots of ornaments. After all its not Christmas without a bright tree. But there is only one thing missing...presents to go under it!

Many people have been asking for requests of what to send over... So, I will just let you all know in case you get the urge to send your wonderful friend a small care package..and of course if you do, I promise to send you something back...something Bulgarian!

So here is my wish list....

pictures from home and any letters
Interesting Magazines...you would be surprised how I use them with teaching
Burned copies of any new music or movies I might like
HOME ALONE...my favorite x mas movie ever
Warm Socks or scarves...it is VERY cold here (and well, being a Cali girl, i am just not used to it.)
Lots of fun postcards from different cities... my students are very curious about the states
homemade goods in glad ware
chocolate chips so I can make yummy baked goods
Sunmaid original raisins...I am obsessed with good raisins
kraft mac and cheese
peanut butter
goldfish
maple syrup...you might want to bag it up so it doesn't explode in travel
tropical iced tea or crystal light
ranch dressing
anything else you want to surprise me with

Hopefully I was good this year and Santa can make it all the way to Bulgaria. I miss you all very much. Lots of love!

Also, here is my address. To send anything, do not declare more than $45 and write "no comercial value, for personal use only" on the box.

--
Jessica Lloyd
FLS Romain Rolland
62 Ivan Shishman Str.
Stara Zagora, 6000
Bulgaria

The Golden Girls....

You gotta love these ladies.

Dorothy - "I look like the mother of a Solid Gold dancer."
Sophia - "It's an old lady's dream come true."
Rose - "I dreamt all night I was a carburator, and I woke up exhausted."
Blanch - "No one ever believes me when I am telling the truth. It's the curse of every beautiful woman."

Here are some wonderful quotes from these fantastic ladies....


Dorothy: Blanche Are you sure you're pregnant
Blanche: I just did a home pregnancy test - it's right here.
Rose: It looks like a perfume sample
Dorothy: Put it behind your ears Rose.

__________________________________________

Sophia: Rose, I found my lucky handkerchief
Rose: Where was it?
Sophia: It was in my bra.
Rose: What was it doing in your BRA ?!!!
Sophia: I was blowing my breasts Rose!

_________________________________________

Rose: Sophia what are you doing?
Sophia: What does it look like I'm doing I'm cleaning out my purse.
Rose: Sophia, why are you in such a bad mood?
Sophia: Excuse me Rose, I haven't had sex in fifteen years and its starting to get on my nerves.

_____________________________________________

Blanche: Now, if you'll excuse me I'm going to relax in a hot, steamy bath with the water high enough to cover my perky bosoms....
Sophia: You're gonna lay in an inch of water!??

______________________________________________

Blanche: I don't look right in American clothes , i have a more european Physique
Rose: Oh, In Europe, do they all have big butts, too?

______________________________________________

Dorothy: You're just jealous because I have a date on Saturday night and you don't.
Blanche: Saturday night? Kid stuff. Get lucky on a Tuesday, then call me.

Twinkle Lights...

I already thought Stara Zagora was a pretty rad place to live. But life just got a little better. They have hundreds and hundreds of twinkle lights!!! My favorite thing in the whole world. I am giddy from excitement.


Now I think I am going to decorate my terrace with lights. And so what if I am that weird American who leaves the lights up year round. This country could use a little cheery light. No need to be drab all the time.

YEAH FOR TWINKLE LIGHTS!!!!

Happy Holidays...

честит праэник...

Even in Bulgaria, they seem to be politically correct. Even here, they say happy holidays rather than merry Christmas. Does it really matter? Come on people!