Saturday, December 02, 2006

Shimmy, shimmy, cocoa pop...

So, I am apparently blog happy right now. And why shouldnt I be. I need to make up for lost time. And, not to mention the weather outside is getting colder and colder and I just dont want to go anywhere. This post really has nothing to do with Bulgaria or Peace Corps, but it brings a smile to my face. Do you remember the movie "Big"??? Well, if so, then you will surely remember this:



The space goes down, down baby. Down, down the roller coaster. Sweet, sweet baby. Sweet, sweet, don't let me go. Shimmy, shimmy, cocoa pop. Shimmy, shimmy, rock. Shimmy, shimmy, cocoa pop. Shimmy, shimmy, rock. I met a girlfriend - a triscuit. She said, a triscuit - a biscuit. Ice cream, soda pop, vanilla on the top. Ooh, Shelly's out, walking down the street, ten times a week. I read it. I said it. I stole my momma's credit. I'm cool. I'm hot. Sock me in the stomach three more times.



-David Moscow (Josh) and Jared Rushton (Billy) in Big, 1988.

Monday, November 27, 2006

Thanksgiving in Stara Zagora...

...was more like a regular day than what you would think of as Thanksgiving. There was no turkey, mashed potatoes, or cranberry sauce. Instead, we enjoyed shopska salad (cucumbers and tomatoes and feta cheese), pizza, pasta or lasagna. But I can say, there was lots and lots of wine and laughter. (As you can see by our purple mouths.)


















But dont fret, I managed to get a bite a turkey a few days later. I traveled up to Vidin for the weekend of thanksgiving. Vidin is located in the north east part of Bulgaria and it only took me about 9 hours of traveling on a stuffy bus. The company consisted of about 18 people total...some new and old volunteers and Buglarians. We had more than enough food and managed to cook a pretty standard thanksgiving feast. And I was most thankful to share the special time with all my PC friends.

Happy thanksgiving and gobble gobble...

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

We are thankful for...

Thanksgiving is tomorrow. And I am going to celebrate it with my students. Last year, we covered paper turkeys with feathers that stated something we are thankful for. And this year, we are doing the same. Except this year, the turkeys are different. Check out my naked turkeys I made. I have made a total of 7 turkeys for some of my classes. Soon they will have feathers.


On a similar notee, some people keep saying I shoud be a primary teacher after they see somee of the crafty things I come up with. And sometimes I think I may even agree with those people. But today, I think this is just a way for me to relax and release all my creative energy. Most days I am teaching rather tough yet interesting topics like the Rwandan Genocide, tabacco use, essay writing, short story writing, or other cultural topics or written tasks. But these are the days where we get to have a little fun and steer away from the traditional classrooml lecture setting. So, as much as I enjoy beeing creative and resourceful, I also very much enjoy teaching my high school students.

Gobble, gobble!

Monday, November 20, 2006

Just a walk in the park...

Over the weekend, my site mates and I took walk in the park...literally. We ventured up past my apartment to a hidden treasure we newly discovered. An absolutely beautiful and peaceful lake surrounded by a park. Although it looks a bit chilly and deserted, there were actually a bunch of old men, young couples, kids and even dogs sitting peacefully around the water. Most were fishing. I think I just found my new peaceful spot in Stara Zagora, and maybe even a place to go jogging.
















And on the way to this wonderful place, we passed by the Zagorka Brewery. That's right, the fabulous place they make Zagorka. The beer that is widely enjoyed by most Bulgarians and foreigners. And it is definately my beer of choice costing a whopping 1.50 stotinki (equivalent to one buck). Sorry guys, the brewery is not open for tours.





















The new guy in the pictures is Shane, the other new volunteer who took Matt's place. Remember, Ryan replaced Larry. And Shane replaced Matt. And then there is Alex, and me of course. So that makes up the Stara Zagora crew. Oh, and we cant forget Melody, the honorary member of the Stara Zagora team. So, that should fill get all of you up to speed at this point.

















(Note: Ryan, thanks for the pictures.)

Saturday, November 18, 2006

A Sad Goodbye...

As you all read last time, the Stara Zagora crew had a big send off party for Matt. Well, yesterday was the day he finally got on the plane. And I was the one to send him off. His 2 years in Bulgaria were up and he was heading out for the next adventure. It was a day filled with lots of emotions, hugs and tears.


Matt and I have become best friends here in Bulgaria over the last year and a half. He has meant everything to me. He was always there for me. We shared so many stories, so many experiences, and were even lucky enough to travel together. It will be very strange without him around. Stara Zagora just won’t be the same without him. Without his cute smile, his quirky ways, and his just plain wonderful self. He is such an amazing person.


He will not only be missed by me, but also by all his friends here in Bulgaria, his Peace Corps friends, and all those he worked with. Each day leading up to his departure, he was always meeting up with people for coffee so they could say their last goodbye.


But for now, Matt is onto his next journey. As I am writing this, he has probably just landed in South Africa. He is working on a conservation project with a British organization for 2 weeks. Then we will travel around for an additional week before he heads to London for a week. And then, it is home sweet home.

So, as my life continues here in Stara Zagora, his life will continue back in the states. I am confident in our friendship and know it will last. But he will definitely be missed. I miss him already.

Monday, November 13, 2006

Some Things I Love

(Note: This is a post I saw on one of my friend's blog and I liked it so much I decided to do the same. Of course I changed the list to things I love. I hope you enjoy.)

Crawling into a freshly made bed

Hearing a song that I have heard a hundred time before

The warm windy nights of fall

Getting an email from someone I haven’t heard from in a while

Words that I cant pronounce but still make me smile

Coming home to a warm home with someone I love inside

Watching cats find interest in the smallest things

Traveling with someone that makes me laugh

Getting a package from someone who loves me

An unexpected compliment

Laughing till tears fall down my face

Knowing that someone has done something just for me

Feeling like I’ve accomplished something

Cooking a nice meal for someone else

Doing something for someone which I know he or she will appreciate and enjoy

Walking out of a class with a smile

Seeing lights on in the windows on the street at night

What do you love?

Sunday, November 12, 2006

Matt's Big Party...

So, there comes a time when you have to say goodbye. And there is no better way to say goodbye to someone with lots of friends. On Saturday night the Stara Zagora gang decided to send Matt off in style. We did it up right. Alex, Ryan, Melody, Matt and I went for good food, lots of drinks and a night on the town.


We started out with some good chinese food accompanied by beer, rakia or vodka, depending on your drink of choice. After a couple of drinks we felt warmed up and headed out. We headed to the new bowling alley (yes, Stara Zagora now has 2 bowling alleys. Who knew there was such a high demand for bowling in one town.). Thought it would be a happening place on a saturday since it just opened that weekend. But we thought wrong. We decided to bowl a game anyways. And guess who won, breaking 150?? Oh yeah, that would be ME!

From there we headed to the better of the bowling alleys, Caribe Bowl. Put on our styling shoes once again, and bowled the balls down the middle. Ryan even managed to bowl a strike at midnight winning himself a free pizza. How cool is that?!

(The free pizza voucher for the strike at midnight.)

(The two winners of the night, me and Ryan.)

Because bowling happens to be an expensive sport here in Bulgaria, we headed off to the pool table, dart board, and air hockey table. The night was filled with lots of stories, laughter and good times. I am confident in saying a good time was had by all, especially Matt.

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

Madrid...here we come!

SPAIN!!!

Oh, how I miss thee. Soon enough I will be back to my old stomping ground. And these are the girls I will be traveling with. And the countdown is...1 month, 2 weeks and 6 days!! Cant wait.

Maybe I should brush up on my Spanish.

Toilet = Bano
Beer = Cervesa

I think that is all I need to know. See you soon Madrid.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Happy Halloween!!!

Just a glimpse into how Peace Corps volunteers celebrate the very American holiday. About 40 or so volunteers gathered at the blue house in the very beautiful town of Veliko Turnovo. We were able to get wild and crazy without any Bulgarians staring at us, shaking their heads.

Costumes included everything from Edward Scissorhands, a shower, jazzersize girl, a bulgarian grandma, an angel and devil, Evil Caneeval, a bulgarian soccer player, a catholic schoolgirl, a couple of cats, and much more.


And yup, thats me in the middle. I am a bee keeper. I have the big rubber boots, the mesh net hat thingy, and even the fogger to calm the bees. And you bet I am bringing that costume back to the states with me. Its just classic. Cant get much better than that.


Trick or treat!!!!

Thursday, October 26, 2006

Ahhh, the Summer.

Picture Gallery...

After climbing over 1,000 steps, we made it to the top of the Shipka Freedom Monument in Bulgaria. It is cold and windy, but well worth the climb. The view is amazing.
















Venice. We loved the birds. And the birds loved us. And all the other hundreds of tourists that waste their Euros on the small bags of corn. But let me tell you, it is addicting. And the birds are fat. So fun!



I guess I have a thing for birds because here is another one. On the black sea coast, I observed and helped with a bird ringing. They set up these nets and the small birds fly into the nets. Then we grab the birds and put small rings on their legs to track them. I am holding just a little guy.

















The girls come to visit. Do I really need to say more. Their first night in Bulgaria didn't end until the sun came up..literally.
















And then, there was Greece. Pure beauty. Need I say more.

















And finally, Turkey. A photographer at the Shiny Club roamed the club and we made the front page (of their website)! Ah, shiny..we love you.



Well, thats all for now.

Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Update...Long Overdue.

To those that actually read this:

Here is an email I sent to a few people. And afterwards I realized, "Wow, that would be a really good post to my blog. To get people back in the loop." So, here it is. My long overdue update of life in Bulgaria.

To start, and to be very general, things here in Bulgaria are going well. I am well into my second year and am happy and healthy. And the countdown has started. Right now is at 8 months and counting. It’s weird to think I am almost done. It’s just the home stretch now. And man, has the time gone by fast!


But to be more specific, let me fill you in on what I have been up to over the last many months. I finished the last school year in June. And shortly after that, my parents and brother came for the big awaited visit. My dad was brave enough to rent a car and managed to get us safely around Bulgaria. The drivers here are nuts, so it’s a lucky thing our car had no bumps or bruises when it was time to hand in the keys. We explored Sofia, Rila Monastery, Stara Zagora (of course), and Shipka Pass and also Veliko Turnovo. It was a short visit in Bulgaria but I know they enjoyed their time here. Unless it was the extremely cheap beer prices they liked more. But I am thinking, the best part of the trip was simply seeing me!


From Bulgaria, we headed to Italy to enjoy the hot Italian sun. And it was H-O-T! From Rome to Florence to Pisa to Venice we enjoyed a bit of shopping, much good food and even better wine by the craft. Oh, the life. I could stay there forever, (but definitely not on my Peace Corps budget.) I can’t even express how nice it was to see some friendly faces from home. But when the goodbyes were said and done, I was ready to go home, my Bulgarian home. Excited to get back to my cat and coziness of my apartment.

During the summer, I simply enjoyed my free time away from my students. I traveled around the country, meeting up with other Peace Corps volunteers, laid out next to the local pool and even made it out to the black sea.

With another volunteer, I helped an environmental NGO release 20 storks. I even held the stork in my arms and released it in the water myself. What a cool feeling.


The next big excitement of the summer was when my two best friends came out to visit. That was just crazy fun. It was also nice to spend some time with the girls... We headed to Greece and Turkey for a few days each. In Greece, we only managed to get to Thessaloniki and Khalkidhiki. The beaches there were absolutely gorgeous and the water, amazing and warm. In Turkey, we did the whole tourist thing in Istanbul. That city is really, a very unique city. It is definitely on my top 5 of favorite cities that I have traveled to. It is unlike any city I have ever been. So much rich culture and beauty. Wow. I can’t even put it into words and pictures don’t do it justice. Let’s just say, I am planning another trip there before I leave.


So, those were my summer adventures. And now, school is back in session. I am much more prepared this time around which is always a good thing. I even created a course curriculum text book for my classes. It is just a compilation of different lessons put into one book. Everything from the Rwandan Genocide to Tobacco Use to Poetry to Short Story writing and more. And my students each happily bought a copy. On top of my super busy schedule of almost twice as many classes as last year, I am still working on the implementation phase of the grant I wrote. We have the library and multi media room underway and hopefully able to be used by the start of the New Year. It is really a great addition to the school. I am also busy with other Peace Corps projects. I am on a committee to review other volunteer's grant proposals. So I am getting a lot of new useful skills in grant writing and review. It is hard work but fun. I really enjoy it.


As the weather continues to drop, I am trying hard to brace myself for the cold winter that will be here any day. It is also very evident in the town as all the outdoor cafes have disappeared. My small radiator is constantly plugged in keeping only one room of my apartment warm. But I do have one thing to look forward to. As I will not be heading home for Christmas, I will be heading to Madrid for the New Year. I get to get back to my old stomping ground, if only for a week. Also, four of my girlfriends have already bought tickets to come visit. They will be making the long haul to Bulgaria in early June. It is a long way off, but just something else to look forward to.

So, that’s all for now. I hope this wasn’t too much of a bore for you to read. But I thought it was time to send an update. So, come 8 months from now, I will be home...stateside with a big ol' smile!

Saturday, June 10, 2006

SZ's Mayor's Car Bombed in Bulgaria

Crime: 8 June 2006, Thursday.

A bomb blasted a car belonging to the mayor of the southern city of Stara Zagora on Thursday, minutes after midnight, media reported.

Evgenii Zhelev's office car was parked in front of the block where he lives. No one was hurt at the blast, but four other vehicles were damaged along with Zhelev's Opel.

The explosion shattered the windows of the first three floors of the two nearby buildings, authorities explained.

This is the second assault against the mayor, media reported. A bomb was placed before his apartment on June 28, 2004, but the culprits were never found.

Stara Zagora locals have long been protesting against the repeated gassing of the city, and tension in the region has been building up for a while. A major protest was held hours before the blast, giving the government just a month and a half more to point at the culprit for the city's ongoing environmental problems.

President Georgi Parvanov gathered several ministers on Tuesday to discuss the problem.

Monday, April 24, 2006

Bulgaria OKs Three Bases for U.S. Troops

From the WASHINGTON TIMES
By Nicholas Kralev
----------------------------

Bulgaria has agreed to open three military bases to permanent use by 2,500 U.S. troops who would be available for combat in the Middle East and other nearby regions. Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice will seal the deal when she visits the country this week.

Miss Rice, who leaves on a trip to the Balkans today, is expected to sign a broad defense-cooperation agreement with the new NATO ally that would authorize the stationing of foreign forces on its soil for the first time in its 1,325-year history, U.S. and Bulgarian officials said.

The final draft of the agreement, which was seen by The Washington Times, allows the United States to deploy troops from the bases for missions in third countries without the specific permission of the Bulgarian authorities, a sensitive matter for many Bulgarians.

"One of the key issues anywhere is our ability to use our soldiers where we need them," said a senior U.S. official. "Otherwise, we would be tying ourselves [down]. The old model [during the Cold War] was that we had forces in Europe because we thought we'd fight in Europe."

The possibility that U.S. troops would use a country with a large Muslim minority as a base for an attack on a Muslim nation, such as Iran or Syria, has provoked vocal opposition in Bulgaria. A nationalist party represented in the parliament plans to stage massive protests against the agreement during Miss Rice's visit.

Another difficult issue during the negotiations involved jurisdiction over any crimes committed by U.S. military personnel in Bulgaria. It was resolved in a convoluted 10-line sentence, which the senior U.S. official said is standard for such documents.

"The Bulgarians waive the right to primary jurisdiction, but, in cases of particular importance, they recall the waiver and reassert their jurisdiction," the official explained in much simpler language. He noted that most crimes committed by U.S. forces abroad "are fairly minor."

A senior Bulgarian official said Sofia was satisfied with the arrangement and that the two countries would work together on a case-by-case basis in the event of any serious crimes.

Officials of both countries said the United States will not pay rent for its use of the Bezmer and Graf Ignatievo air bases and the Novo Selo army training range and storage facility. But, according to the agreement, it will cover "operational and maintenance expenses."

"If we decide we need commercial property, we'll pay," the senior U.S. official said.

The senior Bulgarian official said that any new facilities built by the Americans will remain Bulgarian property during and after the Americans'presence in the country.

The Bulgarians are hoping the agreement will generate employment in the country, but may be disappointed.

"We don't plan on having that many permanent workers," the senior U.S. official said. "But Bulgarian companies are eligible for contracts for services if they meet our requirements and standards."

There will be 2,500 U.S. troops stationed on the three bases in southern Bulgaria at any given time, although their number could reach 5,000 during rotation periods, the official said.

The agreement, which has to be ratified by the Bulgarian parliament before entering into force, runs for 10 years and will be automatically renewed. Either side can terminate it with one year's notice.

Miss Rice signed a similar agreement with Romania in December. It has been ratified by the parliament's lower chamber and is currently awaiting approval by the Senate, said Sorin Ducaru, the Romanian ambassador to Washington.

Both Bulgaria and Romania are former Warsaw Pact countries whose strategic location at the crossroads of Europe and the Middle East attracted Washington's attention after the September 11 attacks, ensuring their admission to NATO.

Miss Rice will participate in a meeting of the NATO foreign ministers in Sofia and will also visit Greece and Turkey.

Sunday, March 26, 2006

My life right now....

...is great!

As for teaching, I am half way through my second semester of teaching. Each day seems to be better than the last. I continue to learn new things about this difficult profession. I gain more confidence as I stand up there in front of my 250 students teaching them what I know. Right now I am working with different classes on Poetry, Folktales, and Advertising. It has become more of a creating writing class with me, but they seem to take well to it. It is such an amazing sight to see my "difficult" students (meaning those that never do anything in my class, other than play games on their phone) are actually taking part in my class. On those days, I walk home with a bit of satisfaction that I have done my job well.


As for other things, I am currently working on writing a grant for my school. It is a Small Project Assistant (SPA) grant through USAID. The project consists of updating the current English Library and Media Resource Room. The existing one is quite inadequate for todays standards for developing language skills. Our hope is to get the grant approved for newer books, a computer, printer, projector, etc... It is a strange thought to think that when I was a student, these type of things were already in every classroom without question. But unfortunately, this is not the case in Bulgaria....Hence my project. Grant writing is a difficult process, but one I am quite enjoying. I am learning so much from this experience. I will be able to take these skills back with me when I finish my service. Not to mention, my Bulgarian colleagues also know how to write a grant. They can now pursue other avenues in order to develop their school needs. We are not finished yet, but at least we have the ball rolling.



As for things I have to look forward, srping break is less than a week away for me. I head on a mini vacation (with Matt) to Serbia, Bosnia, and Croatia. We will be taking many trains and buses, but will have a chance to see other countries in the Balkan region. The itinerary thus far is as follows. We will be taking a train from Sofia (Bulgaria) to Belgrade (Serbia). Straight away we will be heading to Sarajevo (Bosnia) for a couple days. I am most excited for this city as it has so much recent and unfortunate history. From Sarajevo, we will take a bus to Dubrovnik (Croatia) and spend 3 very relaxing days and nights. Dubrovnik is right on the Adriatic sea. Lets just hope the weather is good for our seaside stay. After lots of fun in the sun we will slowly head back to Bulgaria stopping in Sarajevo for another night and Belgrade for a couple days. The trip should be a lot of fun (and traveling)...and definitely worth it. I will be sure to take lots of pictures.


Upon my return back to Bulgaria, I will have another week of teaching before I head out to London. There I will be meeting up with my sister, Jenny and brother-in-law, Scott. Having been to London before, I am more excited to finally see family. People keep asking me what I am going to do and see there. I just say, "I am along for the ride. It is all up to Jenny and Scott." (So you better plan a rocking good trip..but I have no doubts that you will.)

After London, comes the one year mark of my service on April 22nd and the home stretch till summer in July. But for now, I will enjoy the spring weather and outdoor cafes of Stara Zagora. People watching can take up the good part of a beautiful day...and I look forward to it all. I may even catch a good chess game between the diados (grandpas) in the park. Keep living healthy!

(Note: Pictures are taken around Stara Zagora.)

Saturday, March 25, 2006

Its been awhile....

I know, I know. It has been waaay too long.


I have kept you all out of the loop for the past two months. But have no fear. Spring is back...and so am I. I am alive and happy! Please read my latest updates, dated before this post. And I will try to make a better effort to keep my blog updated...

Thursday, March 23, 2006

The Rumor is True....

All Bulgarian women are BEAUTIFUL!!!

(Article from Sofia News Agency)

Charming brunette Alice Panikian, who was born in Bulgaria, was crowned the new Miss Universe Canada in Montreal Quebec.

Alice who is 20 years old and stands 1.86 m in height, will go on to compete in the Miss Universe 2006 pageant.

Alice Panikian was born in Sofia, Bulgaria and came to Canada when she was five years old. She is in her second year at York University majoring in English and Communications. She loves to read and write and hopes to become a broadcast journalist.

The young lady earned the nod of the judges with her elegance, intelligence and overall package. She was anointed Miss Universe Canada 2006, defeating 48 other hopefuls Tuesday night.

"It's surreal. I think I'm dreaming," Panikian said, checking her pulse. "No, no, I'm not."

The judges rated the young women on poise, confidence, intelligence, physical fitness, and beauty as they modeled in swimsuits and evening gowns and made impromptu speeches.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

Kukeri Fun!

A little bit of Halloween, a little bit of the Castro, and a little bit of Star Wars. This is the scene for most Kukeri festivals in the small rural villages of Bulgaria. This past weekend, I went to one of the biggest and most well-known Kukeri festivals in Shiroka Luka, high up in the Rhodopes. This is a "must do" in Bulgaria.


Now, let me begin to explain. The Kukeri is an important masked ritual of dance in the last days of the winter, just before nature comes back to life. The participants are male only, dressed in sheepskin garments and wearing scary masks and chanove (copper bells) on their belts. (Transdressers and Chewbacha look alikes are also present.) These men dance and sing songs and chants, with the intention to scare away the evil spirits or ghosts which people believed came back to the living ones in winter.


The ritual is a mixture between Christian and pagan traditions and symbols. There is a strong correlation between the event and the peasant life. It is a unique folklore, which can be seen only in Bulgaria. The traditional mask is multi-coloured, covered with beads, ribbons and woolen tassels. The dress too, is colorful and florid once again up to the individual imagination. The heavy swaying of the main mummer is meant to represent wheat heavy with grain, and the noisy clanging of the bells is intended to drive away the evil and sickness.


To experience an "authentic" Kukeri, it seems one must travel some respectable distances. I having had traveled on three different buses in a period of 6 hours, was ready for a good show. And that is exactly what I got.

Wednesday, March 01, 2006

Happy Grandma March!

So, today is March 1st. That meaning, it's Baba Marta (Баба ĐœĐ°Ñ€Ñ‚Đ° )! It is probably Bulgaria's most intrinsic holiday because it is purely unique to Bulgaria. The custom of wearing martenitsis (ĐœĐ°Ñ€Ñ‚ĐµĐ½Đ¸Ñ†Đ¸) is only popular in Bulgaria. (I guess the backwards head nod is another one of those things that is popular ONLY in Bulgaria as well. At least we can say they have a uniquely different culture.)


Anyways...the holiday is celebrated by giving these red and white bracelets or pins, a.k.a. Martenitsis, to friends and loved ones. The streets are lined with vendors selling these things. They have all kinds of Martenitsi too, some have tassels, some have blue clasps, others have super heros, princesses, football teams and of course Alf (loved by all Bulgarians). The tradition is associated with optimism and anticipation of warmer weather, fertility and well-being. The white is supposed to symbolize a long life and red, health. According to tradition, when you see the first stork or swallow of the year, you are supposed to tie your martenitsa to a tree or bury it under a rock and you will have good health for the rest of the year.

Although there are many folk-legends based around this tradition, the following story is one of the most popular:

Many, many years ago, Khan Isperih left his home in the far away Tibetan mountains and went in search of fertile land for his people, the proto-Bulgarians. He crossed many mountains and rivers until finally he stopped in the land of the Slavs who met him cordially. Slav women, dressed in white, brought him cups of wine and the tables were piled with food, the fruits of this blessed land. But the khan was not happy for he was sick for his family – his mother and his sister Kalina. He sat on the bank of the big river and tears like pearls dropped down his masculine cheeks. His eyes looked in prayer towards the sun and the gods. And then the miracle happened.

A swift swallow alighted on his shoulder, and Isperih told her of his grief. The swallow flew away to the lands from which the Bulgarians came and told Kalina in a human voice that her brother has a new kingdom, that he grieves about her and sends her greetings. Kalina was very happy to hear that and decided to send a message to her brother. She made a nosegay of green plants, tied it with white woolen thread, made some knots on it meaning best regards and sent it back with the swallow.

The bird flew like thunder and very soon was on the shoulder of Isperih again. But after the long journey, its wing was wounded and its bright red blood had tinted the thread. The khan took the nosegay with joy, read in the knots his sister’s greetings, put the nosegay on his breast and the martenitza shone bright. Since that moment, Isperih ordered his people to make a bunch of twisted white and red thread and wear it on their breasts on this day – for health and blessing from heaven.


This happened on 1st of March and the tradition has remained until this day. It is a tradtion loved by all, too. It may seem a bit excessive, but I walked home from school today with about 75 martinisis covering both my wrists. I just kept getting them as gifts from teachers and students alike and I didn't want to offend anyone so I kept putting them on. Although the tradition says that I must keep them on until I see a swallow or stork, or the end of March, whichever comes first, I have decided to take the majority of them off. It is, really, a fascinating custom though. Now wherever you go you see people sporting these things. Little kids, police officers, bus drivers, even the stray cat has one as a collar...everyone!

Saturday, February 25, 2006

Meet Penny...

In my most recent package, I was sent "The March of the Penguins." Thanks Mom! I have always been a sucker for those cheesy romantic movies.. And this is no exception. (Not that this is a cheesy movie.) I actually througholy enjoyed watching it. This is a true love story, in that it follows the mating rituals of the emperor penguin, one of the most resilient animals on earth.


The Synopsis:
Each summer, after a nourishing period of deep-sea feeding, the penguins pop up onto the ice and begin their procession across the frozen tundra of Antarctica. Walking in single file, they are a sight to behold. Hundreds converge from every direction, moving instinctively toward their mating ground. Once there, they mingle and chatter until they find the perfect mate--a monogamous match that will last a year, through the brutal winter and into the spring. During that time, the mother will birth an egg and then leave for the ocean to feed again. The father will stay to protect the egg through the freezing blizzards and pure darkness of winter, which would be deadly to practically any other species. Finally, with spring, the egg hatches and the baby penguins are born. Mothers return from the sea to reunite with their families and feed the starving newborns, while the fathers are finally relieved of their protective duties after months without food.

The film is remarkable in its story, which is narrated by Morgan Freeman, whose dignified voice gives the penguins the grave admiration they deserve. But even more incredible is its photography, which shows the penguins hunting underwater, sliding on the ice, and in the midst of "kissing." A story of love and more strikingly, survival, MARCH OF THE PENGUINS is any eye-opening and educational experience.

Rent it. Buy it. I don't care...Just watch this wonderful documentary film.

Thursday, February 16, 2006

Getting (No) Satisfaction

(From the Sofia News Agency)

Individuals know, as a rule, how to tackle the future. The country, as a rule, does not. Defying worrying overhaul of the constitution, thorny EU road and economic doldrums, the Bulgarian is a survivor. Yet an unhappy one.


Take this week's European Quality of Life Survey. It shows Bulgarians to be European leaders in home ownership (nearly 85% own their own home without a mortgage), yet one of the least satisfied people on the continent. Reminds me of a poster that hangs on the wall against my desk. The "Perfect European Should be" - humorous as a German, sober as an Irish, controlled as an Italian, humble as a Spaniard... Aware of all the prejudices, revelations and sarcasm that the poster depicts, a recent brainstorm with my colleagues generated a "genius" new entry - "Satisfied as a Bulgarian".

How come Bulgarians' arduous search for satisfaction ended up in a dozen square meters of private floorage? Is it the lack of community and identification that makes us so sad? We turn our eyes to Brussels only to see that after this week's proposal for enforcement of the judicial safeguard clause, we will have restricted freedom at the new home of our big European family. "Make yourself at home, but stay away from the garden, " was Brussels's message. There is nothing shameful about not being satisfied. But we will have to look further than properties and international allegiances for getting there.

Friday, January 27, 2006

How cold is it??

The frigid weather brought down from Russia's cold front has blanketed much of Bulgaria. The temperatures have fell to as low as minus 17 degrees Celsius (or 1 degree Fahrenheit) in the northern parts of the country..and that is in the sun. The strong tornado-like winds make it seem even colder.


It has been so cold here that many schools around the country have closed their doors in fears of the harsh weather, but hopeful that the cold wave will pass by Monday. My school is one of them. Although I have a mere eight minute walk to school, many of my students and colleagues live 20-30 minutes away by foot. As they walk into school with their red and wind burned faces, you can tell they failed to get a taxi. So thank you Russia for yet another few days off.

In the meantime power consumption has rocketed sky-high, as many people (including myself) resort to electric heaters. I don't remember the last time I unplugged it. Good thing I don't pay the bill. I am still trying to figure out a way to bring my heater to bed with me. Until then, I will have to rely on my five layers of clothing, the seven blankets on my bed, and my warm kitty all nestled together in my smallest room. I don't dare try to cook as my kitchen is so cold I cant feel my fingers after about 5 minutes, not to mention I can see my own breath. Wow..thats cold!


Forecasts say daytime temperatures were to ease no earlier than Thursday. But the temperatures are still down, and the cold weather has already claimed several lives including a six-month-old baby who froze to death here in Stara Zagora. The infant was brought frozen to the local ER where it later passed away. Also, an unidentified female body was found in the neighboring town of Kazanlak. The woman was found frozen near a housing block.

So, needless to say, I am bundled up next to my radiator that I like to pretend is a cozy fire, and I venture outdoors only when need be. So for those of you in California...please..soak up those warm rays for me.

Thursday, January 26, 2006

Bomb Alert in US Embassy in Sofia, 2 Arrested

From the Sofia News Agency:

A man and a woman have been arrested over a tip-off about a bomb planted in the United States Embassy in Sofia, police said.

The two, aged 32 and 38 respectively, admitted they threatened to blow off the building of the United States in the hope that it will be closed.

On January 24 at noon an anonymous caller, a woman, told the diplomatic mission that an explosive device has been planted in the building.

After receiving the tip-off, police found the woman called from a street telephone at "Cherni Vruh" boulevard in the capital.

The perpetrators, whose names were not disclosed, had borrowed money from people in the town of Blagoevgrad with the promise to get their US visas issued. By causing the embassy to shut down, they hoped to skip the chance to give them back the money.

Monday, January 23, 2006

From the New York Times....

Bulgaria: Coming in From the Cold, Slowly

By DENNY LEE
Published: January 22, 2006

Much has changed in Bulgaria since it shook off Soviet domination in 1989. Free elections have been held, and its economic and political capital, Sofia, is thriving. But as it emerges as a tourist destination, mostly in the beach resorts along the Black Sea, Bulgaria is also showing that it is a nation that can celebrate a refreshing lack of progress.

Hidden throughout this big and fertile land in remote gorges and on craggy hilltops are dozens of astonishingly intact painted monasteries that are centuries old. They offer visitors a rare chance to see Europe as it once was - before the euro, before World War II, before electricity.

It is a bit like castle-hopping in Tuscany, but without the postcard kiosks and hordes of foreigners who block your photo opportunities. Of the former nations of the Soviet bloc, Bulgaria has been among the slowest to come in from the cold, which means that much of the country remains off the tourist map.

But some luxury tour operators like Abercrombie & Kent have added Bulgaria to their list of 2006 tours. Highlights include a guided trip to the flamingo-pink Rila Monastery, some 70 miles south of Sofia, as well as a private dinner in the SS. Peter and Paul Monastery, near the university town of Veliko Turnovo. There are also some 600 mineral springs in the country, and a few luxury spa resorts are in the works.

Bulgaria has nine Unesco World Heritage sites, including the Srebarna Nature Reserve, a marshy breeding ground for birds. In fact, much of the countryside remains wild. You can explore caves in the Balkan Range, ski at Borovets or hunt for red stags and brown bears from rustic camps throughout the country.

Tell me again...why wouldn't you want to come visit me???

Monday, January 16, 2006

My Quick Jaunt to Greece...

Where to begin? It all started many months ago when the fabulous Peace Corps Medical Staff informed me that I had a medical issue. They told me what the situation was...and I freaked. I have always been a healthy person minus that Mono I had freshman year of college (but everyone gets Mono in college). So they reassured me that I simply needed to have a biopsy and do a few tests. Okay. So it wasn't as bad as I thought. After I went to a doctor in Sofia that specialized in the procedure, I thought I was good to go. But unfortunately, this Bulgarian doctor proved not up to par with her skills. Thus leading me to have the biopsy repeated.


And that brings us up to present day. Peace Corps then informed that I had two options... Bucharest, Romania or ThessalonĂ­ki, Greece. I opted for the latter. Greece it was. And I was off! Matt and I left on a 7 am train from Sofia. A lot of conversation, a few snacks and even fewer minutes of shut eye later, we arrived in Greece. I was 1 pm. Thats a long train ride. I only wished I had my travel scrabble.

It was a very strange feeling to be thrown into a city where you have no idea what is going on. You don't know your surroundings and more importantly, you don't speak the language. But, we managed to find our way around, enjoy the sites and enjoy some really delicious food. After all, we are self-sufficient Peace Corps Volunteers. We knew what it was like to be thrown into an unknown land.


My impressions of ThessalonĂ­ki were amazing. Being the second largest city of Greece, ThessalonĂ­ki kept up its end of the bargain. There were soo many cars with even more mopeds whizzing past. The waterfront was a very refreshing feeling with the clear water and few boats. The city itself seemed rather unique with a lot of history. (Unfortunately, places closed by three and we ran out of time.) But I do plan to go back this summer, for a longer, more relaxed journey.


Now, Matt and I are peacefully back in Stara Zagora and I couldnt be happier. A few days after my second biopsy the test results came back. And they came back great! There were no significant signs of abnormal cells and I am back to normal. I am considered healthy again. And I got a free trip to Greece in the process.

Thursday, January 05, 2006

Gift Ideas for Friends...

Are you stuck on ideas of what to get your friends and family for their birthday, anniversary, or just because. Tired of the same old sweater or pair of earrings. Then I have just the thing for you. Hand crafted scarves, hats, sweaters...You name it, they knit it! Check it out today. These same ladies are even teaching ME how to knit. Who would have thought!

The following is a message from one of my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers and site mate:

For the past year I’ve been working with a group of disabled women living in the Home for the Handicapped in Stara Zagora (a city in central Bulgaria). The women are craft knitters and, as a part of a SPA Project (SPA = Small Project Assistance; this is a grant through the Peace Corps), we have created a web site to sell their products online.

Each woman’s short biography is posted along with our catalog of offered products. Our intent is to personalize the buying experience as much as possible. Upon receipt of an order, the customer will receive a confirmation letter (email) telling them which woman will knit their product and when it will be shipped. The customer can ask for modifications to the product and can correspond with the knitter by email. We accept all major credit cards.

Shipping to America is FREE via BulPost and we have an overnight service available, at the customer’s expense, with lower rates than DHL, UPS or FedEx.

Our web address is:

www.handknitcrafts.com

Regards,

Larry Gemmell
Community and Organizational Development,
Peace Corps Volunteer
Stara Zagora
lhgemmell@mac.com

Wednesday, January 04, 2006

Holden and Costa...

Just killing some time on a random Wednesday afternoon. But these are my two beloved cats.

Holden, about 3 years, is my cat from college. We like to call him the little guy although he weighs in at about 16 pounds and is quite an attack cat.

On the other hand, Constantine or Costa for short is my kitten here in Bulgaria. And he has somehow taken after Holden leaving my friends with bloody scratches up and down their arms.


Cant wait till they meet. I wonder who would win that fight.

Tuesday, January 03, 2006

The Best State!!!!

You're California!




In many ways, you are larger than life and almost defy description. You certainly love to shake, rattle, and roll with the best of them. You have a generally sunny disposition, but are capable of resorting to harsh extremes when pressed. You are more likely than most to become rich, or famous, or perhaps both. While you have the golden touch in so many regards, your respect for actors is a little over-zealous. This endless faith in actors needs to be terminated.

Take the State Quiz
at the Blue Pyramid.


I really am from California!!!!

Sunday, January 01, 2006

Happy 2006!

Good friends. Games. Champagne. Fireworks.

It was the perfect setting for a New Years celebration. And that is exactly what it was. I spent the eve with my great site mates Matt, Alex, and Larry and a friend from out of town, Jennifer.


We enjoyed.... One home cooked meal of Indian. One game of Yatzee. Two card games, Asshole and Bullshit. Three different types of beverages: wine, champagne, and rakia. Lots of laughs. And even more fireworks.

The evening was spent at Larry's eigth floor flat with a beautiful view of the entire city of Stara Zagora. And noone in a few mile radius of the city could be mistaken that the clock struk midnight and the new year was upon us. From every direction loud bursts of fireworks were set off from the streets, rooftops and even the apartment baloconies. It was quite a sight..


It was a very different New Years but unique and unforgettable nonetheless. Happy 2006!