A Bulgarian Halloween...

Halloween in Bulgaria. Well, it doesn't exist. There were no costumes, candy or jack-o-lanterns. It was just another ordinary day in Bulgaria. People walking the streets, bundled up in the cold weather, going about their usual day.


But there is a Halloween for us Volunteers. It is what you make of it, right? I decided to avoid the big drunken debauchery in Veliko Turnovo where many volunteers used the day as another excuse to dress weird and party hard.

But I took a different route. I headed to a small village town of about 3,000 people. I think I am yet to be to a town that small. But it was actually very amazing. It is so unique in its own way. (I am not saying I would want to live there, but it was quite nice for a quiet, relaxing excursion.)


A few of us gathered for some good company, good food, and good times. We built a small bonfire on the top of the mountain, told stories (scary and not so scary) and made many many smores (marshmallows do not exist in Bulgaria). A great time was had by all. Even Georgi (our very own Bulgarian jack-o-lantern) enjoyed himself!

Six Months...

Six months.

I have now been in Bulgaria for a total of six months. I cant believe it, really. I feel like it was yesterday when I working in the insurance world, getting crazy in San Francisco, eating lots of delicious foods, and saying the last goodbyes to friends and family. And boy, have things changed since then. Now, I am teaching Bulgarian high school students, getting crazy in Stara Zagora, eating lots of Musaka and Shopska Salads, and trying to say things in Bulgarian. I have experienced so much in this small amount of time. Because really, in the whole scheme of life, even the scheme of 2 years, 6 months is nothing.


But nonetheless, I really have learned a lot about this foreign land and the people here. About this country I didn't know anything about, not even where it was (I had to Google it and search for it on a map). Although, I think I have learned even more about myself. Things I never knew.
Here are just a few things... I can actually live by myself. I no longer freak out by the creak in the walls or the wind blowing against my thin windows. I can kill a spider, cockroach, or you name it, without running to get some brawny guy to take care of it. I can paint an apartment and move furniture without help. I have learned how to hang dry all my clothes on the line (there is actually a certain way to do it). I have learned to drink luke warm/cold coffee. I have learned that a garbage disposal is not necessary (but how I wish I had one). I have also learned that a crumpled piece of paper serves as the perfect cat toy.

But in all seriousness. I have come to appreciate things in a much different way too. I appreciate what I had in the states. I dearly appreciate my family back home, (keeping in touch with them probably more than they would like, I am sure.) I appreciate the small things. Those things you never stop to think about, but when you are thrown into a land where your world is turned upside down, you are forced to looked at differently.

But at the end of the day, I am what we all like to call "a self-sufficient peace corps volunteer." 21 months to go...but who's counting.

Bring It On, Bobby....

If you haven't heard already, a Bulgarian has become the world chess champion. His name is Veselin Topalov.


He is 30 years old from the northern Bulgarian town Ruse. Topalov took the throne after ending even against Rustam Kasimdzhanov from Uzbekistan. Now, the legendary Bobby Fischer wants a piece. Fischer is willing to face Topalov in a game of chess, but not the classical type of the game but a version invented by Fischer.

So to that, I say "bring it on, Bobby!"

Romania, Turkey...Now Bulgaria?

The Bird Flu has reached Romania and Turkey. With Bulgaria sandwiched between the two countries, is it the next logical victim? Well, lets hope not. As with any health issue, the Peace Corps office is always on top of their game giving us the much needed information should a problem arise.


Here is the most recent information about the situation in Romania, as described by the Peace Corps Medical Officer in Romania (the situation in Turkey also seems to be similar):

"In the previous 3 weeks, unexplained domestic and wild birds deaths have been reported in rural area of Tulcea and Galati counties. This fact is coincidental with wild birds migration from NE Europe and West Asia towards the Danube Delta, a yearly natural phenomenon. Due to the reported cases of Avian Flu in Russia and Uzbekistan, it is a possible threat of viral migration towards our area. Bird cadavers have been analyzed and anti-avian flu antibodies have been found. For a highly specific confirmation test (live-cells viral growth test), samples have been
sent to a reference lab from UK (Weybridge); the results will be available in about two weeks."

According to Reuters, Bulgarian Agriculture Minister said on Monday that authorities have stepped up controls, particularly near the Danube river frontier with Romania, and were disinfecting cars traveling from Turkey and Romania into Bulgaria. But "at the moment, there is no data pointing to a case of bird flu in Bulgaria, or even suspected cases of bird flu".

So for now, I will follow the medical office's requests..

1.) avoid direct contact with living birds, wild or domestic (direct touch or breathing around them or near their faces)
2.) dead birds are not to be touched, under any circumstance
3.) all poultry products (meat and eggs) should be thoroughly cooked; paying special attention to mayonnaise, creams or salad dressings

Teacher or Student??

So I know I am obviously a teacher here in Bulgaria and at the same time a student, learning new things everyday. (Aren't we all students?)

But here is the thing. At my school, there are two different entrances to the school building. One in the front for teachers only and one in the back for students. At the teacher's entrance, there is a lady that sits at the door to stop students from coming and going through the teachers only door. I think I get stopped at least once a week if not once a day by a different lady (the lady guarding the door changes constantly). They think I am trying to be a sneaky kid and take the short way in or out. As soon as I explain that I am a teacher they let me pass. (These ladies are like the troll in the Three Billy Goat Gruff's story.) Just let me pass, why even have two different entrances??

Every time this happens it just makes me laugh. I know I look young, but do I really look like I am a high school student?

Converse and Side Ponytails....

I must be the coolest teacher ever! My students came up to me after class today asking me if I was wearing real old school Converse. I said, why yes, of course.

(I had a weird side ponytail thing going on at the time...don't ask.)

"Zagorka! Big!"

It has been said that you can survive in Stara Zagora quite nicely once you master the words "Zagorka! Big!" holding your hands about a foot apart, as you speak. I know there are better brews here in Bulgaria (Shumensko Red is a favorite of mine) but Zagorka is a pretty good beer and it's hugely distributed. Not to mention it is a native to Stara Zagora, hence the name.

Zagorka is a former state-owned beer that was privatized in 1994, when the Dutch producer Heineken bought an 80% share. Zagorka is the first and only brewery in Bulgaria that was granted the international standard for management and control of quality. The company holds 25 per cent of the beer market in the country. (A great foreign investment sucuess story!)

And for some reason, Bulgaria ups in beer drinking. The total amount of beer consumed in the country was 294 million litres in 1997, reaching 425 million in 2003 and 473 million in 2004, according to an investor website. Furthermore it is said that beer drinking is expected to see further boosting in the upcoming years.


Maybe its the boost in tourism and travelers, or maybe it is people like me who cant afford much else. But, really, who wouldnt want a huge beer for less than 1.50 leva (thats only about a buck to our standards.)

Cheers mate!!!

Let the festivities begin....

Today is Stara Zagora Day! What does this mean exactly? Another excuse to take the day off and do nothing. Well, not nothing I guess. The festivities started days ago. There have been concerts and dancing and of course the carnival. All this fun celebrates the 130th anniversary of the Stara Zagora Uprising.


And the story goes...on October 5, 1879 General-Governor of Eastern Rumelia Aleko Bogoridi laid the foundation stone of Stara Zagora town, which had been burnt to ashes by the Ottoman Turks. According to writer Atanas Illiev, one of the chief chroniclers of Stara Zagora, only 221 Bulgarian houses remained in the ten-thousand-strong town after the raid of Suleiman Pasha and his hordes. About 700 Bulgarian widows and their little children were crammed into hastily knocked up huts. In this same year, the Municipal Councilors of Stara Zagora adopted the urban development plan of Czech architect Lubor Bayer, which would determine the development of the town for many years on. Thus, the town was literary revived from the ashes.

I guess there is reason for celebration!

Bulgarian Carnival Rides...

Okay, so the story goes.

I have now been on three very different Bulgarian rides since being here. The first, in Panagyrishte, was something similar to a pirate ship rocking back and forth. My host sister dragged me on this ride after having just met her. The second, in Varna, was some monstrosity that rocks you every which way until you really feel like you might want to blow chunks (for lack of better wording). I decided to go on this with another volunteer after not being able to go on it the night before. (Good thing too, since were both a bit buzzed.) But we came off that ride unable to even walk 5 feet. We had to immediately sit on the curb and find our footing again. The third, here in Stara Zagora, was merely a simple Ferris Wheel (although I have never been on one in my life). I accompanied a colleagues little girl on the ride but still found myself holding on like a little girl myself.

I am sure most of you have been to a fair or carnival and been on your fair share of rides. (I can proudly say I was actually a security guard for the band stand at the all too famous Mid State Fair in Paso Robles...although no rides were ridden by me.) Anyways, they all look a bit old and rusty...most look plain sketch. The same can be said for those rides in Bulgaria if not more so. I would also have to say that the typical fair mixes a combination of loud Chalga music (a terrible form of Bulgarian pop), many noisy, scary looking rides, endless amounts of cotton candy, Turkish delights, and other horribly sweet foods, and crowds of people. I think that it is this combination that always makes one feel nauseas after engaging in what is meant to be pure fun. It is this deadly combination that inspires me to write all this nonsense. I have now decided to rule out any and all Bulgarian rides no matter the circumstance. They are just no good for the mind, body or soul (well, maybe soul if if makes you feel like a kid again).

So here is my word to the wise:

AVOID BULGARIAN RIDES AT ALL COSTS!!!

(Nothing good will come of them.)

Where is my Cali weather???

It is the beginning of October and already I am cold. I am out of my rainbow sandals and tank tops and into my tennis shoes and jackets. Seriously WTF? First off, there wasn't much of a summer with all the floods. There was maybe a two week period where it was unbearably hot. And now I am in my pj's, sweatshirt, socks, and slippers, cuddled up with my kitten.

The thing is it is really quite expensive for heating here and everyone says it is not cold enough yet to start turning on those radiators. But I already broke down and turned on my heater. I only heat one room as it would never be able to heat the whole place. I really dont want to move into one room for the winter like most PCV do (but if this is only the beginning, than I am in for quite a treat.) I want my California weather...whaaahh!

And what's more, my apartment always seems to be much colder inside than it actually is outside. Why is that?