Off to COS and more travels...

Peace Corps is full of many acronyms and COS is just one more. This time it means Close of Service. It is my group's last official conference where we essentially talk about how to live in America again.


Sound funny? Well, I think it will actually be more useful than it sounds. I hope so anyways. It is a 3 day conference filled with sessions. Lots and lots of sessions. We will learn about all the logistics that come with leaving service. Things like our readjustment allowance, health insurance, non competitive status when applying for work within the government, possible fellowship opportunities, and much more. The conference is followed by an official dinner where speeches are given and awards received. As 36 of us, give or take a few (we came to BG with 50), bring closure to our 2 year service at this conference, I will look around the room and probably never see some of the faces before me, and some I know I will be friends with forever. It is a strange feeling. Leaving such a influential time of your life behind. Moving on to new adventures.

But not to fret, there are no teary eyes here because I have so much to look forward to in the coming days, weeks, and months. Directly after the COS conference I am headed on my first solo trip through Hungary, Slovakia, the Czech Republic and maybe even Poland if I can hack it. I am rather excited to travel by myself. Never having done it before, I am sure it will be quite interesting, with lots of time for reflection. But the best part of flying solo is that I don't have to answer to anyone. I am my own boss. So, wish me luck. And I will write upon my return in a couple of weeks.

(*Note: July 2005...the picture is at my swearing with my training group, the PC director, and our language trainer. We started with 5 and are down to two. Although for COS, my wing man Lincoln will not be around as he is in the states for a few weeks. It's just gonna be me.)

Spring is for new beginnings.

As the sun shines brighter and the days become longer, I realize that spring really is for new beginnings.


Over the past 2 years I have come to call Bulgaria my home. I have come to accept all the "strange" ways of life here. (I only put strange in quotes because actually it is all quite normal. Normal for Bulgarians. And normal for me who calls this place her second home.)

I no longer feel the need to wait in line as Bulgarians tend to prefer the mob option. I no longer throw beat up clothes in the trash, but rather leave things worth recycling right next to the dumpster in a neat little bag for someone to pick up and use. I don't mind the sidewalks seeping of mud after it rains, now I just walk on the street like everyone else. I can now sit with my colleagues drinking the same tea or coffee for hours. I have even started believing some of their strange superstitions, like if you leave your purse on the floor all your money will walk away. I can walk into a small grocery store and I no longer have to point for what I want but rather say what I want with my perfect grocery store vocabulary. I have embraced the opposite head nod, yes for no, and no for yes. I could go on for hours I am sure, but I will stop here. Let me just say, I know longer feel awkward in this culture but rather I embrace it, I love it.

But as my Peace Corps service is coming to an end, I have to start looking ahead. I have to start seriously thinking about what I am going to do with my life when I return. I have to take this time, these last few months in Bulgaria and do some serious reflection and thinking on my goals, my service and life in general. This is a time for me. This is a time for new beginnings. I still have a few things I want to do before I leave, a few more places I want to explore. The next few months will be a challenge without a doubt. Having to say goodbye to not only PCVs, but colleagues, friends and the country itself. A life I have come to enjoy and love, even with all its oddities. Thats what makes it interesting.

So here is to new beginnings and new paths to walk. Onwards and upwards, right? Right!

(*Please note: Spring is in the air! Woooo hoooooo!!!)

Hurricane Scare

The first day of spring of in Bulgaria (yesterday, March 21st) was marked by heavy rains, stormy weather and a hurricane advisory.


Meteorologists warned yesterday that hurricane winds were expected to whirl over Bulgaria's territory. The storm started from the southwest where they were hit first, followed by the northwest of the country and the higher mountain areas. Even the major ports at Bourgas, Varna and Ruse were closed. The wind speed was around 45 miles per hour. And according to a fellow PCV, that puts the wind at a force equivalent to a rather weak tropical storm. But, it is only expected to grow. Until it reaches 74 miles an hour (nearly double it's current strength), it won't be a hurricane force.

Although the peak of the strong wind is said to be today and Thursday, it is nothing but blue skies and sunshine here in Stara Zagora. I was bumming about the weather yesterday, but I think we might just be back on track here in the valley region. Who knows what is going on in the rest of Bulgaria? But as long as I have sunshine, I am a happy girl.

In any case, we were advised to avoid open places and stay away from old abandoned buildings and areas with lots of debris lying around.

(Note: The picture is a stack of hay in a small village. Is has nothing to do with the current post.)

Is your blog censored or not??

We all know what censorship is. And we all know what internet censorship is, right? It's the control of publishing or accessing information on the internet. So, now that that is established, there are places all over the world that have some level of internet censorship, even the United States. If you thought we had freedom of speech, think again.

As Peace Corps volunteers and "ambassadors" of the United States we are definitely censored to an extent. We are continually told and advised from writing about things that could damage the image of the US Government, the Peace Corps and the volunteers themselves. We should always remember to be culturally sensitive, and avoid any ill-mannered comments about the country we are serving and to also avoid any political controversy. The Peace Corps is especially sensitive as to avoid any potentially damaging or embarrassing statements that could make its way to the public media and give us a bad image.


I get that. I completely understand the importance of this "censorship" and for me, its not hard to abide by. Yes, at times Bulgaria can seem to be a strange, strange place, but I love it here and the odd ways of life. I love the idiosyncrasies that are Bulgaria, that make Bulgaria. I would like to think that anything I write is not ill-mannered but merely my observations. I would also like to think that what I have to say about Bulgaria and my service here would not be taken in the wrong way, but rather seen as the truth, the reality we live in here. Recently, I have even become bold enough to send my blog link to my colleagues. I was a little nervous that they might be offended, but on the contrary. They found it to be light, sometimes witty and quite insightful. They told me it is an interesting read of Bulgaria from an outside perspective, from a fresh perspective. Read it as you will, but please take it with an open mind. (Let's just hope Peace Corps doesn't come down hard on my blog like they have with other volunteers. Because what would be the fun in blogging anymore?)

With all that being said, I now ask you this. Have you ever heard of the "Great Firewall of China"? Well, in China, the government continually embraces censorship methods in the media, including the internet. Although China is not the only place where you can find internet censorship. Some of the most extreme cases of internet censorship also includes Vietnam, Iran, Uzbekistan, Tunisia, Turkey, Syria, Myanmar, Cuba, and North Korea among others.


A non profit organization has creatively established their own website to test websites all over the world and see if it's been blocked by the Chinese government agency in charge of the internet cleanup. Here is the link so you can test your own blog or site or whatever...

Great Firewall of China

I tested my blog and it turns out that...it's AVAILABLE!!! Well, supposedly anyways. Is yours??

(Please Note Map Above: Orange represents the countries in which PC currently works in, while purple shows the countries in which PC is currently inactive.)

European Social Reality

Are you sitting at work trying to keep your swivel chair nice and warm? Are you doing the sleepy eyed head bob from trying to stay awake after a big lunch outing with the office? Are you in dire need of some good reading to keep you going through to the end of the day? Well, I have just the thing for you. A new(ish) report released in February from the European Commission! Its bold, its interesting. Its a report that will keep you going for hours.


The nearly 200 page report is full of colorful bar charts, pie graphs, and loads of statistics. It was released in order to better understand the social realities of European Union citizens including Bulgaria. The survey covers opinions and feelings about a vast array of the dimensions of social, economical, political and everyday life of the European citizens. Seriously, it is quite intriguing. You wont want to miss this hot read.

European Social Reality Report

It's been all over the news in the past weeks. And it's ever more shocking to see where Bulgaria falls when asked questions about their happiness, work, and overall well being. Maybe not so surprisingly, Bulgaria ranks pretty low on most questions. They seem to be the most unhappy, most pessimistic people in the EU. I guess there is no where for them to go but up. And up I hope they go. I find Bulgaria to be a wonderful place to live. If only Bulgarians felt the same way.

The Fun Starts Here...

Just another typical weekend. A weekend with good friends and good times. And let me tell you, the fun starts here... Plovdiv, Bulgaria.

My friend Lucia invited a gang of us over to Plovdiv to celebrate Chinese New Years. Why? Because Lucia is, well, Chinese!! Are you thinking to yourself that Chinese New Years was last month. Well, correct-omundo you are! Why are we celebrating it a month later? Well, why not, I say. It was actually just a better time for all of us to get together. And what a better weekend than St. Patrick's Day. A little Chinese flavor mixed with the Irish traditions. Ah, Bulgaria. You gotta love it!


After lots of catching up and relaxing, the cooking began. (That's Lucia...cooking away for the Chinese feast. And man, was it mm, mmm good.) After filling our bellies with all the flavorful food and drinks, we headed out for a night on the town. Our plan: to paint the town red! And thats just what we did.


It was a great weekend with fabulous friends. The type of weekend I will always look forward to. I cant wait to see them all again in a couple of weeks at our close of service conference for Peace Corps.

Would you like to try some head???

Okay, back to the hidja story....


As I said before a hidja is a mountain chalet that is very cabin like where most hikers seek refuge after a long day out. We opted to stay in Hidja Uzana as our place of refuge. Thinking we were in for a quiet night, we couldn't have been more wrong.

The hidja was actually packed with a group of young youths, mostly boys with their adult leaders. Also in attendance were none other than my students. I just cant seem to ever escape them. Who would have thought that I would randomly run into 4 of my students on the top of the mountain in a run down mountain chalet. Not me, that is for sure.

Kathy, Melody and I decided it best to hang with the adults and owners of the place. We enjoyed lots of strong rakia, sweet vodka, tasy and yet at the same time very interesting food, and shared some good conversation. When I say interesting food, I mean disgusting. Halfway through the evening, the owner comes in and presents us with a large plate of something. He said it was meat. But from the looks of it, it didnt look like anything you would want to eat. He cut up the meat and gave us some to try telling us it was head and stomach. Gross! I cant believe I just ate head meat. But head of what, you ask? Head of a cow. Oh yeah, here is the picture to prove it....


Gross, gross, gross. There wasn't even any meat left on the skull.

When it was time for bed, we headed upstairs to sleep. Finally it was time to hit our heads to the pillow and zonk out. Unfortunately, we were unable to sleep like babies through the night as the party of young boys downstairs played their obnoxious Bulgarian music at a decibil of 10 all night. It literally didnt stop until 8 in the morning. So much for a good nights rest.


Upon leaving the hidja the next morning, we were assaulted by the extreme drop in temperatures from the previous day. From the time it took us to walk from the hidja to the bus stop, there was frost in our hair and tears down our cheeks from the cold, cold weather.

The Stara Planina...

One thing that I love about Bulgaria is the vast nature areas it has to offer. And living in Stara Zagora I always feel really lucky because not only do I have a huge park to explore but I am so close to the mountains.

Well, Bulgaria actually has several mountain ranges all over the country, so I am not the only lucky one. Here is a quick guide to Bulgaria's many mountain ranges. The Sredna Gora are considered the central highlands located where else but in central Bulgaria. The Rhodope Mountains are located in the southern most area of Bulgaria. The Rila Mountains are located in the northwestern part with the highest peak. The Pirin mountains are situated in the southwest boasting the second highest peak. And finally, we cant forget the Stara Planina, also known as the Old Mountains situated in the north. That was all too basic, but if you get out your BG map, you might have a better idea of what I am talking about.

Anyway, in one of my previous posts I mentioned my need for some fresh air. Well, it didn't stop with the Freedom Monument. Our goal was to reach the Uzana Hidja (chalet) tucked away in the Stara Planina Mountains.


The hike itself was absolutely gorgeous. We were in the thick of Bulgaria's ever so famous nature and were loving it. The trail was very well marked with red and yellow markers along the way. Never once did we feel like we lost the trail. Although there were markers for other trails, but we weren't exactly sure where those led to.
As we reached one of the summits we took a short break for water, snacks and pictures. Look how much fun we are having. Kathy digging for snacks and me just being silly. Because it was rather windy at the top, we didn't stay put for too long. Plus we wanted to take advantage of the daylight hours, as we got a late start.

Look at me....I am such a cute hiker with my hat on and my walking stick in hand.

After several hikes ups, and several hikes downs, a bit of snow and a bit of mud, and about 12 km later, the sky was getting darker and our legs were getting more and more tired. But we did it. We managed to reach Hidja Uzana. And what a place it was. Typically a hidja or a mountain chalet can house around 80 people with only the essentials, a warm place to sleep for the night. Without any real snow, we were expecting the hidja to be pretty quiet. But man were we wrong. The minute we walked in we knew it was going to be a long night. But how long, we would have never anticipated what we got. More on that...later.

As this post is becoming quite long, let me just say the hike was just what I needed. A perfect end to a blah kind of week.

Can I take your picture...??

Why is it that people love taking pictures of or with the weird foreigner? This has happened to me a few times now. Once in San Francisco, I was asked to be in the picture with this family's little daughter (I wasn't the foreigner but the family was). Strange as I had never met them before. And now again in Bulgaria.

When I reached the top of the Freedom Monument I was casually walking around taking pictures...even self photos as you can see. Then, this random Bulgarian guy asked me something about taking a picture. I just assumed he wanted me to take a picture of him and his friend. But mistakenly, he wanted his friend to take a picture of me and him together. This was my confused expression when asked to be in this random picture where I kindly agreed. What else was I to do?

Uh, sure?

Anyways, I again thought this was rather strange as I had never met him before. I just don't get it. Why does he want a picture of me and him? We don't even know each other. What is he going to tell his friends when they ask who the girl is in the picture? I think the conversation would go something like this...

Friends: Are these your pics from the weekend? Who is this girl with you??
Him: Oh her? She was just this random American girl hiking around.
Friends: Oh, okay. (Like this is completely normal.)

How weird!!!
Anyways, here is the picture taken with the random Bulgarian dude. (Emily thought it would be funny if I had a copy of it too!)

Freedom!!!

Lately I have been in kind of a slump and needed to get out and do something new. I felt the need for a breath of fresh air and that is exactly what I got. A few friends and I decided to go out into "the nature". Starting from Stara Zagora we decided to take a bus to the nearby town of Kazanluk. We putzed around for awhile and then from there we took another bus to Shipka Pass. To get us going Emily, Kathy, Melody and I hiked up the 1000 steps to the Freedom Monument.


What is the Freedom Monument exactly? Well, this is supposedly the ridge where the Turkish soldiers tried to cross the pass during the 1877-1878 war between the Turks and the Russians, with Bulgarian volunteers taking part. But the Turks were defeated. Today the monument is a national monument that symbolizes liberation and freedom of Bulgaria.


In theory there is an amazing view, but due to thick fog there was no long range visibility. I did this same hike last year with my family and could see for miles. And if you know what direction to look in you can see Veliko Turnovo to the north, and Kazanluk and the Valley of the Roses to the south.


After the hike up, we of course hiked back down where we enjoyed a regional favorite, "Bivolsko mylako", also known as Buffalo yogurt. The Shipka area is famous for the wonderfully thick and tasty yogurt produced locally from the milk of water buffalo. It is most commonly found in the mountain areas around Shipka village and the town of Gabrovo. Mmmm, mmm good.

From the Freedom Monument we were headed into the mountains....

An Eco-Conscious Bulgaria??

Not so long ago I was taking a weekend stroll around town and spotted something rather odd. It wasn't odd because I had never seen such a thing, because I had. But it was odd because I had never seen such a thing in Bulgaria. I thought to myself, could it be true? Could Bulgaria finally be adopting such habits that many countries have been practicing for years on end? Could they finally be eliminating some of their waste and turning it into something else?

What I saw were large recycling containers!! Yellow, Green and Blue!!!


Apparently there is a new trend in Bulgaria to promote an Eco-friendly Bulgaria. A recycling program has now begun!

An obvious and important aspect of ecotourism is the preservation of the environment and natural resources. Bulgaria’s emerging ecotourism industry therefore needs to be coupled with increasing environmental preservation efforts.

Bulgaria, and Sofia in particular, is not known for its efficient waste management. Recent fighting over the location of a new waste treatment center has left Sofia without effective means of dealing with its waste.

In an attempt to decrease the consumption of limited natural resources, several environmental groups have emerged to promote Bulgarian recycling. Both private citizens and large companies are targeted by recycling campaigns, in hopes of encouraging a “recycling culture” in Bulgaria.

Recycling programmes in Sofia have not existed long enough to collect any accurate data on the number of citizens taking the initiative to recycle. EcoPack plans to promote its recycling programs with public awareness campaigns in the coming year.

This is all done in hopes of encouraging a “recycling culture” in Bulgaria. Lets just hope it works and Bulgarians start thinking GREEN.

International Womens Day!!!

March 8th. This is the day women all over the world unite together in their fight for independence, peace, economic, political and social equality...and it is also celebrated right here in Bulgaria. Although really, I don't know how much equality women here actually receive. From my point of view women are still a step below men in almost all aspects of life. Cooking and cleaning is still considered woman's work, and many women are not given all the same opportunities as men and are paid much less in the work force.


But here in Bulgaria, like all the other holidays (lots since last Thursday), Woman's day is celebrated in a colorful way. With lots and LOTS of flowers. Since early this morning as I casually walked around town I saw almost every woman at one point carrying a red carnation, a yellow daisy, or some other bouquet of flowers.

I like the idea of a day to celebrate women (not just moms, but all women). And since I am a woman, I of course will gladly take my flowers and carry a proud smile. But at the same time it is hard when you know there are women in the world who are denied education and choices, who are denied life's simple liberties and freedoms so many of us take for granted, who live in abject poverty. For me right now there is nothing I can do but stand with my fellow women..and stand tall. It makes me realize how lucky I am to live in a world (the U.S. of A.) where I have so many endless opportunities and freedom. Today, I am proud to be a woman!

Wow, that was a lot more she-power than I expected. Happy Woman's Day!!!

(Note: *And if you didnt know, apparently it IS celebrated in the states but they turned it into Women's Month. Women's day here is just like our Mother's Day.)

Ode to Sugar Cereals....and My Mom!

Sugar cereal how I love to eat you in the morning.

I love to consume you in the afternoon.
Oh how I love sugar cereals in the evening.
Nothing pleases me more than sugar cereals..

Well, that was a pretty weak attempt at my ode. But seriously. I really love sugar cereals. Not all, but a select two to be exact. Lucky Charms and Fruity Pebbles. And what my mom has to do with any of this? Well, recently she sent me a package filled with both! I am now able to eat both Lucky Charms and Fruity Pebbles at any time of day. I usually have cornflakes with a banana because anything else is just too expensive on my Peace Corps budget. But now, I am living in the lap of luxury with my sugar cereals.


Okay, seriously, what is wrong with me. I know they aren't the most nutritious breakfast you can have, but man do I love the them. And it really only seems to be a more recent fixation. Maybe it is the constant lack of variety that Bulgarian grocer shops and cuisines have to offer. Maybe it is the ability to feel like a kid by saving all the marshmallows for my last spoonful. Whatever the case may be, I am more than grateful to my mom who has such a big heart and surprised me with 2 boxes of yummy and delicious cereals. Thanks mom! (And thanks to a few others who have sent a few boxes my way in the past.)

Mmm...all this talk of cereal. I think I will go have a bowl now.

Odd Coincidence...

I don't usually post more than one blog entry a day but today I have to make an exception.

As I walked into the teacher's room at school today the large wooden table was covered with all kinds of foods and drinks. I thought to myself, whose birthday is it today? As is customary in the Bulgarian tradition, the birthday boy or girl is more or less obligated to treat their friends and colleagues to a small feast of drinks, snacks, and sweets. This is mere commonplace in my school where there are over 100 teachers. So it feels like every week someone is having a birthday. Also those being treated must then wish the person long life, good health and lots of riches (or a version of that anyway.)

I like this concept very much. It relieves the pressure and anxiety that are birthdays in the states. Instead of wondering if your best friend is going to throw you a party or even remember that it is your birthday, here in Bulgaria you just come right out and say it. "Yes, its my birthday. And now enjoy a tasty bonbon."

So, whose birthday was it today?? Well, it was one of my best colleague friends Mima, the same colleague I traveled to Holland with. And what did Mima serve at her small birthday feast in the school?? None other than PEANUTS!!! (And other treats of course.) I just found this rather ironic and I guess coincidental when just this morning I posted about the dangerous peanuts in Bulgaria. Instead of going for the salty peanuts, I went with the homemade sweet. I think that was the safer bet. But I couldn't help but cringe as people took handfuls of the possibly toxic peanuts. I just didn't have the heart to say anything. No need to spoil a good day. What can you do?

Here's to you Mima. Happy Birthday!!!

(Note: Picture is of the birthday girl herself, Mima!)

Dangerous Peanuts...

We all heard about the Peter Pan Peanut Butter that was found to be contaminated. But who knew eating a harmless salty snack could actually kill you?

According to recent news the peanuts in Bulgaria are dangerous and we have been advised not to eat them. About 70 tons of peanuts that have been imported in Bulgaria from Gambia in January 2007 are said to be toxic. These contain alpha-toxins that are 60 times more than the normal limits, a quantity which is considered to be cancerogenic. The whole quantity imported is a subject of official government investigation and testing in the state laboratories. However, 40 tons of the above mentioned peanuts are missing as of a week ago and have not been found so far.


The official investigation was said to be completed by March 5th (yesterday). But there seems to be no end in sight as new sources are coming forward and saying that this was not the first time that poisonous peanuts were shipped into Bulgaria. Supposedly they have been imported and sold in Bulgaria for seven years already.

The low price - between $50 to $100 per ton - is the reason for Bulgarian traders to assist the illegal import of poisonous peanuts. The average price tag of fresh peanuts ranges from $200 to $300 per ton.

If all this is true, I just cant believe this has been going on for so long and just now coming out. I don't know about you, but I am definitely going to avoid eating peanuts in this country.

Stara Zagora Kukeri...

Oh yes, another spring tradition. Last year I wrote "a little bit of Halloween, a little bit of the Castro, and a little bit of Star Wars." And this year it hasn't really changed. This is the scene for most Kukeri festivals in the small villages and even some big cities of Bulgaria.


Over the weekend, I attended our very own Kukeri here in Stara Zagora. I woke early and headed down to the center of town following the sound of the loud clanging bells and was greeted by character faces that you only imagine in folk tales.


It is that time of year with the winter fading away and spring making its bounds. The Kukeri is an important masked ritual of dance in the last days of the winter, just before nature comes back to life. The participants are dressed in sheepskin garments and wearing scary masks and copper bells on their belts. Transdressers, scary doctors, men on "horses" and Chewbacha look alikes are also present. These men dance and sing songs and chants, with the intention to scare away the evil spirits or ghosts which people believed came back to the living ones in winter.

The ritual is a mixture between Christian and pagan traditions and symbols. Men wear decorated wooden masks of animals (sometimes double-faced) and bells on their belts. Girls even join in the fun in the national costume of Bulgaria and start up the horo (the national dance). According to the tradition, this festival, like many other traditions in Bulgaria, will provide a good harvest, health and happiness in the village during the whole year.


Kukeri is a an amusing ritual with men in tights or big fur masks dancing wildly in the center of town. It is a rather authentic and unique Bulgarian tradition. One of the many traditions I will miss when back in the states.

Spring is here!!!

Well technically, the first day of spring is not until the 21st of March. But with all the sunshine, good weather and blossoming trees it mine as well be spring already.

I know I recently posted a blog about the cold weather and how winter has finally arrived. But to be honest, I think that the poor weather only lasted a period of 3 days. Nothing to complain about. And really, I don't even know if winter ever truly arrived. It's been the warmest winter ever recorded in the country with temperatures reaching the 60s in the normally freezing winter months. That is just unheard of here in Bulgaria for this time of year.

And you know what? I like it! I like waking up to a sunny day and going to bed with warm winds. I like not having to put on 6 layers before I go out (I can stick to my usual 3). I like the feeling of the warm sun on my face. To make it plain and simple, I like the early arrival of Spring.


And before I forget, while we are on the topic of spring, March 1st was Baba Marta Day, also known as Grandmother March. This is my favorite Bulgarian holiday which marks the end of winter and the start of spring. The tradition is associated with optimism and good health, good luck, fertility and well-being.

And in celebration of Baba Marta, Bulgarians give and receive a martinitsa, a red and white bracelet or tassel, to wear on their wrist or on the lapel of their coat. According to tradition, when you see the first stork or swallow of the year or a blossoming tree, you are supposed to tie your martinitsa to the branch of a tree or bury it under a rock and you will have good health for the rest of the year.

I personally love this holiday for many reasons. One being that it is the start of spring. Two, it brings people together and unites them. Everyone joins in the celebrations. Old men and little girls, Bulgarians and Roma, and even the good old foreigners all wear martinitsas. I love looking around a noticing that everyone has that red and white bracelet or tassel on.

Happy Grandma March!

(*Note: The picture shows a a usual array of different martinitsas given during the holiday.)

March 3rd: Liberation Day

Today is a big day in Bulgaria. It is one of many national holidays, but maybe one of the most important. Today marks the the 129th anniversary since Bulgaria's liberation from five centuries of Ottoman dominance.

Traditional ceremonies are held in all Bulgarian cities to boast victorious battles for Russian and Bulgarian soldiers in the 1877-1878 liberation war. On March 3, 1878, the Peace Treaty of San Stefano (a tiny town near Istanbul) between Russia and the Ottoman Empire was signed which brought Bulgaria back to the political map.

The first time March 3 was marked occurred in 1880, in honor of Enthronement of Russian Emperor Alexander the Second. Since 1888 March 3 has become Bulgaria's Day of Liberation and it was not pronounced a National Holiday one hundred years later until 1978.

(*Note: Photo one is of the Bulgarian President Georgi Parvanov attending a ceremony in celebration of the holiday.)
___

On a side note, I was in Sofia today walking around with a friend and we happened upon one of the many celebrations going on in the country. With dozens of police lined up on the streets and earing loud music from afar, we decided to see what the fuss was when we realized it was a rock concert. The concert happened to be on the steps of the Alexander Nevski Church (built as an expression of gratitude for the 200,000 Russian heroes who sacrificed their life in the Russo-Turkish Liberation War).

What I find most strange is that the concert was literally on the steps of the church and led by Ataka, also known as the Bulgarian Nationalist Political Party. Not only should I mention that this was a concert, but it was more of a political rally by this extreme rightest group who many consider to be a racist, xenophobic, neo-nazi party. This was a place I didn't want to be at the time, and shouldn't. As we were walking away from the area, a large parade (I am talking hundreds) of Ataka supporters were making their way to the music.

Is it just me or does it seem odd to have such a gathering on the steps of a church, no matter what church?

Well, as they say in Bulgarian, Chestita Praznitsi (Happy Holidays).

(*Note: Picture two is of the Bulgaria's Nationalists: Slogan being "Down with Govt in Cahoots with Turks, Mafia!")