My Second Home

Stara Zagora really did become my second home, my home away from home. I made it mine, and made a great amazing life for myself there.

The apartment building. A large communist block.


My apartment doors. I loved these doors. I could easily tell anyone that came to visit, which apartment was mine. I loved that red door!

The dark, musty entrance to my building. It always smelled, and the ground was always wet. It was like a very creepy basement, except that this was my everyday.


The mailboxes. Bulgaria does not really hold mail to a high standard. It is not a federal offense to open someone else's mail. And this is why I had all mail and packages sent to my school. How else would I have gotten my Fruity Pebble fix??

My door. Gospodin Mixhailovski Street, #81, Stara Zagora, BG 6000. My second home.

It may not look like much from the outside, like most places in Bulgaria, but it was warm and cozy. I had many a laugh and tear inside those doors, and I wouldn't trade any of it for the world.

Bringing the Bears to Bulgaria

During my grand ol' tour, we stopped into school so I could show off one of my biggest accomplishments while in Bulgaria. The completion of my grant: A media resource room and English library.

And to add my own little touch to the room, I put in a UC Berkeley Football mouse pad. Just trying to spread the joys of Cal football all over the world. I am sure no one ever noticed, but it was a small piece of home right there at my school in Bulgaria.

I even left the American football I had acquired with my school. Although, the football was a little beat up when I left. Playing with it on the hard asphault in the school yard, kicking it around like it was a soccer ball will do that to the ball. I used to love watching my students try to get that perfect spiral pass to their classmate. Quite amusing.

The Quick and Dirty of Sightseeing in BG: Stara Zagora

We arrived in Stara Zagora in the early morning. We headed back to my place where I was greeted by my lovely cat Costa. We rested for a bit before heading back into town. I wanted to show my sister what my life was like for the last 2+ years.

First stop: Apartment. Check.
Second stop: The Market. Check.
Third stop: The Obits wall. Check.


Next stop: My School. Check.
Next stop: The Old Ruins. Check.


Next stop: Ice Cream. Check.


Final stop: Drums. Check.

Stara Zagora is a beautiful city, and the fifth largest in Bulgaria. But I cant say that we see too many tourists come through these streets for reasons you may have already guessed. There just isn't a whole lot to see or do.

Tears, Tempers and Trains

Much like any big city, after 4 days the hustle, the crowds, the intensity and the heat began to wear on us, but we wanted more. I could have spent 3 weeks in Istanbul alone before even venturing to other parts of Turkey. Unfortunately, we only had about 4 days in the amazing, lustrous city.

We tried to soak up as much of it as possible. From the mosques, to the side street shops. From the aqueducts, to the Grand Bizarre. From the rooftops, across the Bosporus. From one palace to the next. From strangers to friends. From friendly smiles, to cups of tea. But after so many cups of tea... it was time to say good bye to Turkey. We headed back on the 10pm train.

(From the train)

We of course ran into a small glitch when we got on the train. Our tickets (tickets I previously purchased in Bulgaria to ensure I had a sleeper cabin) were not valid as the Turkey reservation desk had already given that cabin to another group of people. After 2 and a half years of this s**t, my patience had run thin and I was fuming yelling at the ticket lady, yelling at the train guy, pretty much just yelling at anyone who looked like they were in charge of anything. Well, it worked. I got my way, and we got a sleeper cabin!

(Me and my mom peering up from our beds...hot, sweaty and tired)

Taking the night train was nothing new for me or for my sister who had travelled Europe right out of college, but it was quite an adventure for my mom. The kicker of it all was that at maybe 3 in the morning we passed through boarder control. This meant we had to get off the train leaving all our possessions back in the cabin, cross the train tracks (by cross, I mean, jump down on the tracks, walk across, and climb back up....at 3 IN THE MORNING!), and get our passports stamped. I had done this once before so I didnt think much of it, but I kept forgetting that this would NEVER fly in the states. Since when does one have to cross live tracks just to get their documents checked. It really is insane just to think about it.

(Boarder Crossing on the Turkey Side)

We made it safely back to Stara Zagora, all limbs attached, all suitcases still in tow. Even with the constant jerking of the train, the nightly check-ins from random boarder control, the track crossings, even with all that, my mom still loved it. It reminded her of something out of a movie. Movie or not, I am excited not to have to ride scary night trains for awhile. Although it saddens me too, as that means I will not be travelling for awhile.

Because I REALLY Cant Help Myself

Ah, the Turkish Toilet....for reals!

I have had the great experience of doing my business in many a hole in the ground, a hole we like to call the Turkish toilet. Now finally, here is a real Turkish toilet; this time actually in Turkey.

(A sultan's toilet at the Topkapi Palace)

As you may recall, in an earlier post "The Terrible Turkish Toilets", I also write about my joys of the scary dark hole.

Because I Cant Help Myself

For so many reasons, I cant help but JUMP. Here is another one of me and my sister....this time in Turkey!

(Before)

(After)

Check out those shadows!

Turksih Boyfriend

During one of our last meals in Turkey, we went to a restaraunt across the street from our hotel. I remember this place well, as I had dined there the previous year with Mandy and Gina. We had made friends with the owners and they even took us out for a night on the town to Shiny Club. But that is a story for another time.

Back to this summer. We had an early casual dinner and ordered wine and appetizers. We were in no rush. As the waiter took our order, he looked at me with confusion. You know how when you see someone you think you know, you get that look in your eye like "How do I know you?". Well, he had that same curious expression. He asked if he knew me from somewhere and I told him yes, from last summer, we went to Shiny club. "Ah, yes. You were with a tall girl and a shorter girl." (Mandy and Gina.) We started talking and wa-la, we made the connection.

(A rooftop dinner)

The waiter went in and told his friend that I had returned. He came out, greeted me with a hug and kiss, and we reminisced about last summer. I came to find out that he is now happily engaged and doing well for himself. As the evening progressed, we had our dinner, ordered more wine, and made more connections. Another person there owned a small shop in the states, in Texas. And who would have believed it, but my mom had frequented that shop several times during her visits to a friend out in Houston. They chatted. I chatted. It was nothing but good times. They joked about one of the waiters, telling me he was single and interested. They even offered my mom 5 camels and a carpet if we were to wed, continuing to tease the young turkish guy about how he had enough hair on his chest to keep me warm during the cold, long winter nights.

By the end of the dinner, everyone was friends. We had shared cups of tea together, exchanged emails, and truly had a good time. I was walked out by young waiter where he planted a kiss on me, and promised to write. You could see it in his eyes. He was smitten over the American girl.

Update: And in fact, he did write. He has written me over the months since my return to the states asking me when I will return. He even writes me poems...or sends me poems as I am not sure they are originals. Here are a couple samples of what was sent to me.

(Istanbul in the Winter: Mehmet Altunpak, my Turkish Boyfriend)

Subject: My inspiration

Destiny where do I find you?
Destiny where can I look for you?
Destiny where are you hiding?
Why are you hiding from me?
Destiny what do you have for me?
Destiny what are my options?
Destiny which door is open for me?
Destiny which door should I go in to find out what you have for me?
Destiny does my future looks bright?
Destiny do you have anything for me that I might want?
Destiny can I get any satisfaction from you?
Destiny are you my friend?
Destiny can you feel my hearts desires?

Subject: Hello

My dearest, How are you? I looked forward to response anyway you send. You 're beautiful. I love your eyes. Miss you. I would be waiting tomorrow night at 10 o'clock. Kiss you. See you.

Subject: Angel

Hi my angel. Where have you been? Ok Jessie, say hi to your family. I really so miss you. I will LOVE YOU forever. Take care of yourself.

Subject: You are the one

A month have passed since splitting up. Who knows where are you I could do anything to see you and hear your voice. Your green eyes, your wavy hair are unforgettable. Never think you have been forgotten you are always on my mind. Without being forgotten your memory had stayed somewhere deep in my heart. Oppression month had pulled you away from me. None had known our love except us. I'm left alone and our love has become a song I have been thinking of you with song.

Those are some real bottom of the heart love letters. I havent been back since, but cant wait for the next opportunity to return. Maybe our paths will cross once again

The Sunken Palace

Istanbul is often described as mystical, but when you go down the steps into the cool, dark cisterns, it doesn’t get more mystical and magical than that. Beneath Istanbul lie hundreds of gloomy cisterns. They're left from the days when Istanbul was Constantinople.

The grandest of all is Yerebatan Saray Sarniçi, called the Basilica Cistern, or “Sunken Palace”, because of its size (2.4 acres), its capacity (over 21 million US gallons) and its 336 marble columns. You can walk through the cistern on a wooden walkway to the sounds of soft classical music and dripping water. And if you look closely, there are goldfish darting around in the water below.

It was constructed in the mid-500's A.D. during the reign of Justinian I in order to supply water to palaces located nearby. The water was brought in from far away water sources via aqueduct, and then stored in cisterns such as this one. After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, the cistern fell largely unused for centuries. During the 1980's a huge restoration project was conducted on the cistern to allow for tourist visits.

Justinian’s builders didn’t actually carve all these intricate decorate columns; this was a case of ancient recycling. They reused materials from old buildings. And one of the most famous sights within the cistern is the pedestal with the two Medusa heads carved into it. The exact origin of the two heads is unknown, though they were probably recycled from the late Roman period. Another mystery is why one of the heads is upside down, while the other is tilted to one side.In Greek mythology, Medusa was a gorgeous gal with a great head of hair, but Athena, queen of the gods, was jealous. She turned her into a monster with serpents growing out of her head, and anyone who looked at her turned into stone.


Another tidbit of interest: We were told that the scene in the old James Bond movie From Russia With Love was filmed in Yerbatan. It is the scene when Bond is rowing in a small boat through a forest of marble columns. Cool, huh?

The Sights, Sounds, and Smells of Istanbul

A quick picture review trying its best to capture snip its of Istanbul.

Pottery.

Lights.

Spices.

Turkish Delights.

Cheese.

Baklava. (Original baklava is made from "40" layers of yufka dough. The dough should be so thin that it should be transperant. In between, pistachio or walnuts are laid.)

Textile Vendors.

Tiles.

The Bosporus.

These pictures don't even begin to do Istanbul justice, but it gives you a very small glimpse into what it has to offer.

Call to Prayer

Istanbul is blanketed in mosques. Throughout the city, you are never more than a few blocks away from one. Yet the undisputed icons of the city and the spiritual (and tourist) heart of the city are two massive mosques that face each other, separated by a beautiful park. As the story goes, they were built by competing sultans trying to outspend each other on lavish glories to god. Called the Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, these buildings are truly monuments to man’s ability to create beauty.

(Ritual of men washing feet before prayer)

(Inside the Blue Mosque...all covered up out of respect for their beliefs.)

Turkey is 99% Muslim, and five times a day the city's mosques blast the call to prayer from their loudspeakers. The first comes at a shockingly early 5am, nearly knocking my sister out of bed on the first night. You can hear the call in every corner of the city, and it is a hauntingly beautiful cry. After the first morning, we talked about the call to prayer and how much it just gave us all the goose bumps at the beauty of it. Perhaps more than anything else, the call to prayer made us feel as though we were definitely not in the "West," but had entered the vaguely defined "East.”

(Ayasofia Mosque)

(Inside Ayasofia. Here you have to try to move your thumb all the way around the circle without lifting your thumb at anytime. If you do this your wish will come true...or something superstitious like that.)

Although there are probably hundreds, maybe thousands of mosques in Istanbul, we only made it to a few. But we did hear the call to prayer everyday, five times a day, and were still found in awe each time.