Istanbul in a Nutshell

I wanted to write all about my time in Istanbul with my family, but couldnt help but think that my friend Max had put it so eloquently: "Istanbul, a city that is truly a crossroads of history and civilization. A capital of empires and dynasties, today Istanbul is the financial and cultural capital of modern Turkey (though the “official” political capital is Ankara, in central Anatolia). It is a city of nearly 9 million people, with an estimated total of 11 million when the surrounding areas are included – making it bigger than New York City or Los Angeles county. All of Bulgaria has only 7.5 million people. It’s a big place." (Thank you Max, for that.)

(In front of the Blue Mosque with the family)

It’s also an incredibly interesting, dynamic city that I couldnt help but pressure my mom into going. My previous visit a year earlier there had been a small bombing in the outskirts of Istanbul. This to say the least had scared off my mom. Bombings were still a small threat as politics meets religion, but I assured her that it was well worth the risk. She agreed, and now I think I can say with all honesty, Istanbul ranks in as one of me, my sister's and my mom's top 3 favorite cities. It is number one for me as no other city even compares. Nothing can compare to the many contrasts or smells, the clash of modern and old, the traditions, colors, and overall vibe.

(Enjoying the light show in front of the Blue Mosque)

We had a blast. It was hot, in the mid 90s, and it was crowded with backpackers and tourists, and Turks of course. The street hockers were as annoying and slick as ever, pleading with us to buy their carpets and eat their food. But outside of the main tourist center, the hard-sellers disappear, and you can walk unimpeded. We strolled the bazaars and we shopped and haggled for bargains...well, mostly I did the bargaining as my innocent smile disappeared and I got down to business. I had been there once before and knew more or less what one should pay for a piece of pottery or a small this or that.

My Turkish Twin...

Turkey: A country full of men. Men who, as you walk past, tell you how beautiful you are, always trying to guess your nationality. Men who are so forward in their feeling, and don't hold anything back. Men, who ultimately, are just trying to sell you something.

As we were headed to our next point of interest, one of the mosques in the main square, a young Turkish guy stopped to tell us that the call of prayer was about to start and now was not a good time to site see the mosque. We looked around to see if he was telling the truth, and in fact, men were walking in herds towards the mosque to, well, pray. We kindly thanked him and smiled goodbye. We had decided to hold off for a bit and head in another direction. I think we ventured down to the aqueducts or maybe went shopping; I don't quite remember. A couple of hours later we happened across this same guy. He again stopped, and chatted us up. As me and him were talking, my sister got this classic snap shot.

(Twins: Me and my Turkish Twin)

Only in the land of the foreign, outside of America, would you find a guy wearing a purple and pink and green striped shirt, an almost identical pattern to my tank top. There is just no shame, or maybe every one is proudly metro. Not really sure, but I can't help but love it.

As we chatted and parted ways, he recommended a place to eat later, which we followed up on. After joining us for a drink, my mom warily headed to the hotel, while my sister and I joined him and his cousin for some tea and backgammon and even a little hookah (although we did not partake in the hookah).

All in all, he seemed like a nice guy. I must say, having tea is a lot more innocent than going out for beers at a club. After all, tea is a sign of friendship, offered anytime, anywhere.

We ran into him a couple of other times during our stay in Instanbul, but never sat down for tea again. I cant say I was bummed because, really, I was in Turkey, and there were sooo many other things to see and enjoy! I will always remember these encounters and meetings with my Turkish Twin, and always look back fondly of the time we had tea together.

Helllloooo Turkey!

We arrived into Istanbul in the evening, jumped into the hotel shuttle, and were wisked away. And when I say whisked, I mean packed into a shuttle, holding on for dear life, and trying to soak up the sights as we reached further and further into the city. As we approached the center, the streets became more narrow and apparently one-way. Cars had to reverse out of a street if an oncoming car was coming.

(Istanbul at night)

The hotel we stayed in was the same place my friends and I stayed a year before. It was the Side Pension and Hotel. A hotel/pension. We stayed in the hotel side this time. The only difference here was the fact that it was supposed to have air conditioning. And in the middle of the summer in Turkey, you want air conditioning. Unfortunately, they were all full up and our reservation didn't mean much to them, so we were stuck in a smallish room with 2 beds and a cot, and zero A/C. A small fan was supplied to us, but I find that those sometimes just push the hot air around rather than producing any cool air at all. I was disappointed and angry as this is what I had reserved, but what could I do?

We stepped out for a quick glimpse of our neighborhood, grabbed a bite, and headed in for a good nights rest. We were exhausted.

Farewell Athens

The hot summer sun. A cooling jacuzzi. Tons of tourists. The magnificant greek ruins. Kebabs and taziki. A few islands. Pistachios. And one trip to the hospital.

Here are a few picture highlights:

(Me amid some ruins)

Who doesnt love the self portrait photo where one person holds the camera hoping not to get a double chin. But we were all smiles (and double chin-less). Could I have any more frekles?

(Me, Jenny, and Mom)

What would a trip be without a classic jumping shot. It is just something I have to do everywhere I travel. I even managed to convince my sister of the fun! The Greeks and tourists alike look on as we jumped like crazy till we got a good shot. Although good can be described as ridiculously silly here.

(Jenny and me)

It was time to say good bye to Greece; we were packing our bags for Turkey!

Side Note: A Quick Review

After my numerous toe and personal health incidents during my stay abroad, I wanted to give you a quick review of different medical vehicles I can proudly say I never had to use.


This one seriously looks like the ghost busters car just a little more beat up. How old is this vehicle??? And can it really be that reliable!?


This is more like it. A real ambulance right in my home town of Stara Zagora. I hope they upgrade all the emergency vehicles to ones like this. Alas, this is Bulgaria, where the money runs scarce expect when bribed by the mafia.

What is filled with goo and green all over?

My gross infected toe! Yes, I know my riddle is pretty bad, but I just cant seem to escape all the issues that surround my feet. It is bad enough that feet are smelly and not known to be the prettiest body part ever, but mine just happen to be the grossest things you ever saw. (Well, maybe not the grossest.)

It all started last summer. My family was in Bulgaria visiting and I got an infection in my big toe nail. My mom came with me to the Peace Corps doctors where they told me I would have to have a procedure done to take out my ingrown toenail. (ICK!) Later in the summer, they did the procedure and I passed with flying colors. No infection, no nastiness.

This summer, my mom had to take me to a Greek hospital. I showed off my toe to an EMT and she reccommended I go to the public hospital in town to get it checked out. I would have held off until I got back to Bulgaria or even the states, but it just seemed to get worse and worse. And I didnt think that with all the heat, sweat and dirt, it was making things better. This hospital was something out of a movie back in the 50s. It was old, run down and no one spoke English, but that was only to be expected. I paid 5 Euros, and waited about 2 hours and finally saw a doctor. He just looked at my toe (didnt even bother to put on gloves), wrote up a prescription and I was on my way.


It was quite an interesting interaction with his broken English, and my complete lack of any Greek except "prost" which means cheers. And I didnt really think that would get me anywhere except a good spot at the bar.

Needless to say by the looks of my toe slowly progressing from bad to worse, I filled the presription, and let the magic begin. It was a gel like substance I had to rub on the infected area. Lucky for me it was hot sandal weather!


Over the course of the trip, my toe slowly started to heal. The yellowy-green pus was released, and my toe back to normal. But I will tell you one thing, I dont ever want to end up in another foreign hospital, especially without a translator. That was 7 too many times (5 times in Bulgaria, and 2 times in Greece). Yikes!

Aegina, Hydra, Poros...

...and a tourist rip-off. I could have guessed from the start that what we signed up for was going to turn out this way, but the brochures and sales people make it sound great. A day trip to 3 Greek islands! A ferry boat, lunch and tours. What more could you ask for? MORE TIME! That is what.

(Myself and Jenny, my sister, on the Ferry out to the islands)

Yes, we were suckered into going on a day trip to 3 different Greek Islands, just off the Athens coast. We wanted a taste of the islands, but didnt have a whole lot of time. So, we settled on one of those typical tourists traps.

We set sail on the ferry bright and early, and headed out to sea for a couple of hours with all the other anxious, excited, doe-eyed tourists by our side.

(The Ferry)

First stop: Aegina. We were given about 2 hours to roam the island. So instead of walking on the beach with the wind blowing through my hair, my skirt flowing like I imagined (but not really), we were like cattle being herded, everyone in the same direction passing by the tacky tourists shops. We did get to venture to a clock tower and take some nice photos. Greece is full of nothing but photo opportunities.

(The Family)

Next stop: Hydra. 1 or so hour here. A quick jaunt though the small island town, and some decent shopping. But again, it was nothing to write home about. Had we been given more time, maybe, but I hate that feeling of being rushed on time. If you are late, the boat leaves without you. That is what they say anyways.

(A Greek Window)

Next stop: Poros. I actually really enjoyed this island. They took us out into the depth of island more where they gave us a guided tour. We saw the endless fields of Pistachio farms. And the interesting thing about pistachios is that they have sex! Yes, sex.

Pistachios trees are dioecious in nature, meaning that the sex of some trees is male and some female, and that both are needed for complete pollination. The female trees produce the nuts while the male produces the pollen. Hmm, that seems not too unfamiliar from human procreation. One male tree is needed for every six female trees, a fact that guys can relate to. Wind also aids in the pollination process.

(Me amid the characteristically white Greek town)

Last stop: Athens. After a long day out at sea, with sometimes turbulent waters, the hot summer sun, and the constant go-go-go mentality of the tour guides, we were back on dry land and ready to sit back and relax.

Advice for next time: Spend more time on one island, rather than 3 in one day, and less time in Athens.

Greece: Destination Athens

First impressions: It is hot hot hot! And I don't mean sexy. I mean sweaty, muggy, and moist. Not a good combination for anyone.

I arrive into Athens a half day before my mom and sister and decide to brave the subway and buses to get myself over the hotel where a rooftop jacuzzi awaits! I find the hotel with the help of a Greek man. I wish I could say he was a Greek god, but he was just a helpful old man wandering the streets of Athens in the mid morning heat. I check in, drop my bag off, and put on the bikini. I wanted to soak up some sun and work on my tan before having to head back to foggy San Francisco. As I walk out onto the roof, I am awe struck by our view. We have a view over all of Athens and are right next to the big Acropolis! It was amazing. And so was the cooled jacuzzi. Now this is what I call a vacation.


After a couple of hours in the peak day sun, I head down to the air conditioned hotel and await the family. They arrive with open arms, and we head straight out for some grub.



The thing I love about most European towns is the outdoor cafes! I can never get enough of them. We find a cozy spot on the street and dig into our shwarma kebabs, taziki, and refreshing beer. After dinner we walked around the plaza and enjoyed seeing all the old ruins lit up at night, especially the Acropolis.


And that was just day one!